andy2986 Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 Hiya, I have a problem. I have just fitted a set of D4x4 diff guards to my 300tdi Disco axles. I also have a set of ARB lockers (the ones with the airline that goes over the ring gear) Today when I was building up the axles ive noticed that when the diff guards are bolted into place they push on the air line and I think is making it uncomfortably close to the ring gear. Ive just fitted a set of Niges airline holder things that I think are great ( I put a set of his super flanges on as well ) what can I do to give myself a little more room in there ? I could .... a/ fit ash lockers (not a realistic option as ive just had these lockers rebuilt) b/ make a spacer between the axle casing and the guard (say 5mm) c/ re route the airline some how. What do you think... open to suggestions. im tending towards the spacer idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 Carefully tickle the back of the diff pan with a flap disk or re route that copper pipe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 IIRC Ashcroft used to machine a slot for the line to run in, along the bearing cap, so it didn't have to go over the ring gear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 jam.some steel under the pipe and between cw ..pop some blue rack in there ...fit civer...whats the thickness ? clearance via die grinder on case and add gasket maybe??. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy2986 Posted September 1, 2017 Author Share Posted September 1, 2017 thanks for the answers so far, At the moment the pipe isn't hitting the gear. i can spin the diff and its defiantly not catching but you can definatly 'feel' the pipe making contact with the cover when it goes on. I could relieve some of the inside of the cover with a die grinder (good idea using blue tack !) but obviously taking to much off would weaken the cover, guess a little wouldn't hurt. Ive had a look on google and there are some pictures of the pipe run a different way but to put in a new pipe and ring thing would be a real pain and I would probably have to send it back to nige to have done if im honest. Question ! How much, if at all, does the ring gear move ? the diffs are not pegged and the truck isn't a challenge truck so will mostly be driven with a little mechanical sympathy (honestly !) can anyone recommend a cnc or laser cutters who can do small orders ? I found a place near me but they wanted £100 minimum order. Just wanted to sound out the spacer thing thinking maybe 4/5 mm steel spacer type thing. Maybe a combination of die grinder and spacer might be the way forward...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 Have you asked Devon 4x4 for their advice? There may be a solution they can offer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy2986 Posted September 2, 2017 Author Share Posted September 2, 2017 Yes spoke to them about it when I first realised I had a problem. They say they haven't come across this problem before. They were going to talk to there fabricators about some spacer rings but I haven't heard anything fro them yet. Just thought I would see if anyone else had a similar problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 Ring gear - pegged or not stays pretty much in place (big F Off Kerbangs excluded ) a thou or so at worset N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 PS The other routing was to cut a big groove down the sides of the carrier end cap, just where the bolt goes through. Seriously bad Idea as it severely weakes the carrier cap, and have seen more than a few of these blow up due to the weakening, my advice is do not do this bodge ! N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 Looking at the photos, I'd expect that the contact is happening at the kink central to the diff aperture, just to the right of the crown wheel. I suspect that if you can sharpen the two bends so that the kinked section runs parallel tot he ring teeth, that you'll stop the problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 Can you run the pipe at the top of the CW and fix it to the axle case there. then it cannot hit anything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy2986 Posted September 4, 2017 Author Share Posted September 4, 2017 im a little worried about trying to re route the pipe incase i break it ! Im working away at the mo but will try snaggers idea and also have a little go with a die grinder, Snagger is correct though its touching the case to the right of the crown wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 I've got a friendly laser place if you want a spacer knocking up? I've got the D44 guards too so able to draw it up as well, I'm just busy for the next couple of weeks or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 I think if you remove the right hand side pipe bracket and drill new holes for the P-clip bolts further inboard, you'll be able to adjust the path of the copper pipe quite nicely at the kink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 On a different note, have you been over the face of the mounting flange with a flap disk or something? it doesn't look very flat? Could just be the light! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy2986 Posted September 4, 2017 Author Share Posted September 4, 2017 2 hours ago, landroversforever said: I've got a friendly laser place if you want a spacer knocking up? I've got the D44 guards too so able to draw it up as well, I'm just busy for the next couple of weeks or so. That would be fantastic if you could. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy2986 Posted September 4, 2017 Author Share Posted September 4, 2017 2 hours ago, Snagger said: I think if you remove the right hand side pipe bracket and drill new holes for the P-clip bolts further inboard, you'll be able to adjust the path of the copper pipe quite nicely at the kink. I will have a look when i get back next week, cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy2986 Posted September 4, 2017 Author Share Posted September 4, 2017 2 hours ago, landroversforever said: On a different note, have you been over the face of the mounting flange with a flap disk or something? it doesn't look very flat? Could just be the light! Ummmm, sort of !! I had the axles media blasted before i welded on the rings i then resprayed them with RCP and CIO from Buzzweld but my masking sucked and I got paint on the surfaces so sanded them clean with an old flap wheel. but it is smooth just a weird light thing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy2986 Posted September 15, 2017 Author Share Posted September 15, 2017 Just to say, Im not being rude ! I just haven't had a chance to get back to the workshop yet as im still away on work. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 I've not had chance to grab mine out of the workshop for measuring up yet. Hopefully get the friendly inspection chaps at work to get me the profile and hole positions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 ESP Laser will do small orders, they take cards and will post out. If your having parts lasered you might as well get a dozen done, if you've had the problem maybe someone else has and if you could sell them you'd get your set for free... Packing it out will mean that you hit rocks etc sooner, would this be a problem or not? What shape is the D44 guard inside, does it closely follow the gear? maybe there is more clearance at a different point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 The D44 pans do seem to hug the shape pretty closely from memory. Spacing it out ~4-5mm should give enough room without making it more of a target. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy2986 Posted September 15, 2017 Author Share Posted September 15, 2017 Im thinking a 5mm (ish) spacer and redo the airline holder on the right side of the crown wheel and Im golden ! Im not home long enough to get to the workshop for at least two weeks though...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 No rush here Andy.... I'll try and get a profile and holes sorted this week and see what my laser man says Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy2986 Posted January 23, 2018 Author Share Posted January 23, 2018 So, dragging this thread back from the depths, these arrived today. ( thank you Ross) would love to rush to the workshop and fit them but I’m only home for a couple of hours before I’m off again. Will fit them hopefully week after next. And be a little bit closer to getting my landrover back on the road !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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