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Range rover classic brakes


Rrc19933

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Hello i have a 1993 range rover classic and the brakes overheat when used a lot. I read some comments about upgrading the disc to vented, grilled, slotted. Everything still stock. I want to know if I upgrade them will the problem be solved? If it works can anyone give me part number or brand name that have the kit that fits perfectly. Thank you all.

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They are not. I don't have abs either. When heated i push the paddle all the way down to slow down a little, if i want to stop it will take a lot of time. I think it's a common problem, many suffered from it. They even told me to change the brake fluid to dot 5 higher boiling temperature than dot 4. Any suggestions? Thanks 

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Bowie is right, your 1993 car should have vented discs, ABS was fitted to some by then as was traction control on the rear wheels. The brakes as standard were very good,even better with the ABS. There is clearly something badly wrong with your car, sounds like it has the wrong discs and calipers on the fron for a start...

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To be clear, they were vented front discs, and solid rear, no LR with beam axles came with vented rear discs.

If over heating, check the thickness of the discs, the condition of the pads, and for oil/grease contamination on both.

An RRC has excellent brakes, as above, with ABS they stopped exceptionally well for a 2+ton vehicle.

Where do you live?

BTW, drilled and slotted discs will not really make any difference whatsoever, unless you are racing it round a circuit :)

On that note, what do you use it for?

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 I have a 94 Classic, vogue SE. I had the overheating problem in the Lake District a couple of years ago. Almost total failure up near Kirkstone Pass, but luckily enough room to miss oncoming car!I had also had a few problems with the ABS which we thought we had cured with a new accumulator I had sourced from the States.

Disc pads recover after overheating so we decided to change the fluid. My son works for the LR independent that looks after the car and was given the task. Found during the change that fluid was not getting to all the pipes, rear traction control etc. Traced problem back to Wabco ABS master cylinder, which unfortunately is not serviceable and none available.

So overheating was due to only front discs and possibly one rear working or less!

So garage fitted Dicos servo assisted, basically only needed new disco master cylinder and pipe work, very neat job, and brakes been brilliant for over 2 years, just had to get used to the fact that the travel seems to travel a bit further as previous brakes braked quickly but never snatched. Would not know the difference after a few months

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I live in a town in Lebanon with a lot of downhill roads. Lets say im going down the mountain it's a 10-15 minutes drive and I'm using the brakes regularly i will reach the end of the road with no more brakes. About 2 months ago when slowing down to a full stop it was shuddering a lot I skimmed the front discs and changed the brake pads, now it's shuddering again that's why im thinking of upgrading the discs. I will post some images of the brake  discs and calipers. I'm the second owner maybe when it was with the first owner they changed the disc and by mistake they installed rear disc(solid) instead of vented but i know many RRC owners who have the same problem and one with a discovery 1 he changed the brake oil to dot 5 and still suffering from the same problem. Thank you guys for replying.

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OK, good info :)

If you do have solid discs, then get yourself some vented ones.... that will help a lot, and bring you back into spec. Just good quality standard discs should be fine.

Check the front calipers out, if someone has put solid discs on the front, they may have not changed the calipers, which is pretty dangerous, as the pistons could be able to fall out if the pads get very thin! Vented calipers have a space between the halves, non-vented has no spacer. It could be they removed the spacers, in which case you are up for a new pair of calipers, as I believe the spacers are not available separately.

When back to stock, you may find the problem goes away....

 

 

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Any brake disc manufacturer, except for Britpart, and probably avoid Allmakes as well.

Mintex of Lockheed are fine:

E.g. 

http://www.paddockspares.com/ftc902m-brake-disc-front-vented-mintex.html

http://www.paddockspares.com/ftc902ap-brake-disc-front-vented-ap-lockheed.html

Don't know who you use as a supplier out there of course, I wouldn't necessarily recommend Paddocks, but I couldn't find them on another supplier web site...

Do check the part numbers/ or ask Ralph in our Requests for Part Numbers section :)

 

 

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You can measure the disc thickness to see if they are worn out, minimum thickness is 22mm I believe, though if not totally rusted you can normally read this on the edge of the disc.

If worn out, replace them, for sure, can only help.

You can also consider putting in some 'fast road' type pads, these will deal with the heat a bit better, just be careful until they warm up a touch :) Avoid the Greenstuff pads for this application, they don't seem to suit the RRC. I don't know about the Yellowstuff pads, but likely to suit it better, being less hard a compound.

Whatever you do, do buy decent stuff, the difference between manufacturers and costs is very marked. Obviously avoid Britpart....

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Have you checked the ABS components etc, why are you assuming it is discs or pads? Sure change brake fluid as it should be changed, perhaps annually, although in Lebanon probably not so much chance of it attracting water! I would suggest getting the whole system checked out as that found the problem with mine

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I have no abs and i think that the problem is the discs or the pads or both. Brake fliud haven't been changed in many years maybe never been changed. I used the second going downhill but you will have to use brakes for the curves. Either way I thinking of installing an abs pump but from a performance company because some of my friends had a lot of problems in the original pump.

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