Troll Hunter Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 Please can somebody who has done this tell be how to proceed. I'm trying to remove the front axle and everything has gone well, so far, except that all four bolts on the shock absorber bracket securing rings, Part No. 572087 (p. 437 item 8 in 1987 Parts Manual) have sheared and the nylok nuts on top of the shock absorber bracket are also not obliging me. The top section of the shock absorber turns with the nut, and the bracket shrouds the top section of the shock absorber so I can't grip it with a pipe wrench. The top of the shock absorber shafts have flats on them but their diameter, at only 7/16", is too small to allow a decent leverage. Since the shocks are still very serviceable I'm reluctant to introduce Mr. Grinder, but what about heating the top nuts with a small propane flame and destroying the nylon insert? Any help will be very gratefully received. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted September 9, 2017 Author Share Posted September 9, 2017 I've just had another thought. What about welding a bolt on top of the shock absorber shaft, ie above the nut I'm trying to remove. As long as the bolt diameter is less than the ID of the nut it should work, I think. Any thoughts, please? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 Destroy the "nuts"... Known problem - had several and most of the time end up with taking the grinder to it and cut away about everything.. Bon Courage ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 If you've got the bottom nut (on the axle) off, then just remove the plastic cover and withdraw the whole shock and shock tower assembly up through the engine bay. May need to move a few bits like expansion tank to make room. They you can fiddle with it on the bench to your hearts content. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 As the studs/nuts are off then as Retro says ^^^^^ lift the damper & tower up through the inner wing, OR use a nut splitter on the top most nut to get it off. the securing rings aren't to costly, I've a pair here I would be willing to sell, which have been bead blasted/repainted with new nuts, if you can't get any locally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted September 9, 2017 Author Share Posted September 9, 2017 Thanks for the advice, all. Job done. I used the angle grinder, fitted with a well worn zip blade for its small diameter, and cut the top nuts vertically against the male thread. A small, very sharp cold chisel then removed the nut with little difficulty. The advantage was that the male threads were not significantly damaged, and I can continue to use the shocks when I rebuild. ".... just remove the plastic cover ....." I have the original metal covers, and they will be galvanised when I do the rest of the bits. Thank you for your kind offer, Western. I will certainly need replacement securing rings but I'll most likely get them from whoever supplies all the other replacement bits I need. As I've said before, I'm doing a full tear down, chassis and other bits to be galved, a respray and rebuild. Also, since I'm in Canada I need to minimise freight costs, which is a big incentive to use "a one stop shop". Thanks again for your suggestions. I'm now on to removing the front radius arms. I'm sure this is going to be another struggle. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 Glad you got them off with no major problems, OK about the bolt rings, they rare here if you need them, Radius arms should come off ok, I removed the chassis end nut first, then the axle bolts/nuts & levered the arm down from axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted September 9, 2017 Author Share Posted September 9, 2017 That's the way I'm proceeding, with the aid of a 36" cheater bar. The nuts are coming off OK, thanks to my 80+kg on the end of the bar, but it's getting the bolts out at the axle mounts that is the problem. There's just no room to swing my lump hammer effectively. I think I'll take the wheels off and try using a long bar to drive the bolts out. I'll report later on how effective this is. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lightning Posted September 10, 2017 Share Posted September 10, 2017 The studs always shear off the turret rings, every time l've done this job at least one has sheared off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted September 11, 2017 Author Share Posted September 11, 2017 An update on my last post. "If you can't fix it with a hammer, get a bigger hammer". Lies! I've taken the wheel off and tried a 7lb sledge hammer, but still couldn't shift the bolt. Next, I used Mr. Grinder to cut the head off the bolt, thinking that I could drive the shaft out towards the wheel. Wrong. Even the sledge, with a much better swing, only moved it about 1mm. I tried a large puller, but couldn't get a secure grip on the radius arm. I think I'm now down to two options: trying to drill the bolt shaft out, not an exercise to attempt lightly, lying on my back catching hot swarf, since it's 88mm x 15mm., or to use my propane torch to melt out the polyurethane bushes. Please, has anybody got any other alternatives? Any and all views and advice will be gratefully received. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 cutting disc up between radius arm & axle bracket to slice through bolt shank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 Yup ^^ With a thin disc you shouldn't damage the bracket much. The problem is the bolt is rusted into the polybush inner sleeve, hence your problem getting it out. So you either need to break the rust, or cut the bolt out at both ends of the bush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 Agree that's the way to go but be careful. Each time you get hold of the cutter, think through how you are holding it, where the blade is going and think about how firm a grip you have and most importantly think about not getting it into a position where it wants to kick back. You will be sooo close to the blade, on your back, in a confined space so there's little margin for error. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted September 11, 2017 Author Share Posted September 11, 2017 Thanks for your suggestions. The bolt shank is free of the polybush. I've been turning it quite easily hoping that it would thread its way out, but to no avail. I think that there may have been some movement over the years and that there is now a groove in the bolt which is catching on either the washer each side of the polybush or on the radius arm itself. I like the idea of cutting up between the radius arm and the bracket. Thank you, western. I could even cut both sides of the bush. If I can then get the major part of the bolt out I should be able to remove the radius arm and tackle the remaining section of bolt with much better access. Thank you, all. I'll update as I proceed. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 Bolt may appear free of the polybush, but if it isn't coming out... Then it is stuck on something... And as polybush sleeves are separate from the bush, it will rotate freely, with a bolt fully seized inside, but not slide out! Tickle with the grinder and will be sorted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted September 11, 2017 Author Share Posted September 11, 2017 Success, at last. The "head" end of the bolt was clear of the axle mounting, I could get a knife blade in there, so I concentrated on the "nut" end using the grinder with a thin cutting blade between the polybush and the inside of the outer axle bracket. I cut through the bolt fairly easily but the stump would still not come out. Obviously there was something was holding the short piece that went through the bracket. I resorted to using the grinder between the polybush and the bracket and holding the threaded end in against the bracket. This enabled me to grind the cut face of the bolt, although it trashed the polybush, until the stub came out. Unfortunately the last period of grinding destroyed the feature that was preventing removal of that piece. You're absolutely right, Bowie69. When I drove the section of the bolt remaining in the polybush out came not only the bolt but the polybush steel sleeve. The bolt and sleeve were very solidly seized together. Now for the second side! At least I now have a strategy. Thinking ahead to the eventual rebuild it seems that a coating of good old copper grease would ease future removal of these bolts. Many thanks to all of you who have taken an interest in helping me resolve this sticking point. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 Glad you got a decent result with minimum damage to LR & yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 Yep, good stuff And yes, copper grease would have helped a lot... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted September 11, 2017 Author Share Posted September 11, 2017 Good news. The second side came out without any problems, apart from needing my 3ft bar and my maximum lifting effort on it to move the 30mm nut on the chassis end of the radius bar. In the photo below the top two bolts were from one side, the passenger side (it's LHD), and the bottom bolt is from the driver's side, which is where I had the marathon removal session. It looks as if the top two bolts are plated and the plating is virtually intact, but the other bolt's plating is virtually non-existent. It's as if there's been some agency at work that has corroded or worn the original plating off. If this happened, but was more accelerated on the bolt I had so much trouble with, it would explain why it seized solid to the polybush sleeve. Any idea what could have caused the plating failure? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 All these problems occurred because your steering wheel is on the wrong side, Mike. That sort of bolt seizing never happens in the UK. Possibly ... Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted September 12, 2017 Author Share Posted September 12, 2017 Wow!! I learn something new every day. And I thought that it was because I put a Tdi in instead of the original V8. Obviously, somebody has been taking the p1ss out of me! You just don't know who to believe these days, do you? Anyway, both axles are now out from under the chassis, and the chassis is sitting on the small carriage I made so that I can move it around. Now for a high pressure water wash and then off to get it, and many small pieces, sand blasted before HDG. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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