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TD5 - How to synchronise camshaft and crankshaft?


robthebob

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Hi Rob (Or is it Bob),

At some point you will need the two timing pins to set this all up properly.

Basic timing preparation...

The head has a small hole just behind the timing chain on the top. This is where one timing pin will need to go and holds the cam ready for #1 at TDC. 

There are two "bright" links on the timing chain. When #1 cylinder is in the right place, these will line up with the mark on the chain wheel.

Note: The system is designed so that the bright links and timing mark only match up after something like 26 revolutions to reduce chain wear, so you may be rotating the engine for a while to get the bright links and timing mark on the chain wheel all lined up.

I did all this with the head off to get the chain lined up and had the pin inserted in the head prior to fitting so it was in TDC position for #1 from the off....

With chain, timing marks and then cam all ready, I then bolted the chain wheel to the end of the camshaft, but left loose.

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Under the vehicle, there is a threaded hole (Drivers side) where the second pin goes in. 

Only when #1 is at TDC will it go in fully...

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Once you have the head back on and torqued down etc. and the chain tensioner back in, with both pins in place your timing is set.

Only then should you tighten the three bolts holding the timing chain to the cam. (Don't forget to add threadlock to these.)

Hope this helps...

 

Neil

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22 hours ago, V8 Freak said:

 

Note: The system is designed so that the bright links and timing mark only match up after something like 26 revolutions

 

Hi Neil,

thanks very much for this answer.

Let's see if I got things right.

I aligned timing mark and chain links before taking the head off. A bolt was insert in the timing tool hole as visible in this photo http://robertostephenson.com/TD5_problems/content/20170909_084650_large.html

No timing tool was insert through the crankshaft as I don't have the tool and assuming that the engine will not rotate until I will decide to do so.

So, till here I should be fine.

Now I need to rotate the engine to clean cylinders.

With someone holding up the  camshaft sprocket, I rotate the engine counting the revolutions (should be 26) and watching for the chain links and mark on sprocket to line up again.

At alignment I should be ok and able to refit the head, right?

Thank you!

Roberto

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Hi Roberto,

The head should stay in the right place but as you can see in your picture, the bolt is not a tight fit for the gap in the camshaft, so timing will be out ! (Yes, it's that specific)

 

With the head off and nothing in the timing hole in the bell housing, you can turn the engine, just keep the timing chain elevated a bit but mine didn't catch or jump off the bottom sprocket.

When it comes to putting it all back, turn the crank until you have timing mark and bright links at the top... Get under the truck and see if the timing gap on the flywheel has lined up with the hole in the bell housing.

This is mine not quite lined up....

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The gap needs to be dead central in the hole for the engine to be on TDC #1.

When this is lined up, timing sprocket mark at the top, bright links at the top all will be good to put the head back on.

When you get the head back on, attached the sprocket and loosely fit the bolts.

Make sure the bolt is central in the camshaft timing gap.... 

Refit the chain tensioner in side of the casing and then tighten the three bolts that hold the sprocket to the camshaft.

Remove to bolts one by one and add threadlock. Timing "should" be set....

 

Neil

 

 

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fantastic explanation!

So, I can wait for the ordered timing pins to arrive, in the meanwhile work on the cylinders and head, put the pins in the right positions with sprocket mark and chain aligned and it should be ok.

A double check would be that of, once all tighten as should, rotate the engine 26 times manually to make sure no valve is being caught by a piston at any time, correct?

And thanks again Neil :)

Roberto

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Once it's all back together rotating by hand is good to make sure, but one or two should suffice. 

Wise to disconnect the impact sensor on the bulkhead and crank on the battery to build oil pressure before starting. Crank until oil light goes out. 

Then reconnect.

Also make sure battery if fully charged as you will need to run the purge cycle at least 6 times to push diesel into the head. 

Since the injectors likely to be empty too, you are likely to need to crank with throttle open too when you want to start to help get fuel into injectors and get it fired up. 

Use new seals on all injectors. 

Adjust them correctly. Plenty online about how to do that but if not sure pleas ask. 

Make sure to follow the correct head bolt tightening proceedure. 

 

Neil

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On 15/09/2017 at 5:05 PM, robthebob said:

new injector sealings... I need the special tool to take injectors apart? Then yes, I will go check injector's cleaning literature, promise!

Don't attempt to disassemble the actual injectors. very specialist work...

If you are referring to getting them out of the head, I use a long 5mm Allen key. 

In just the right place you can lever them out.  Slide hammer is the Land Rover way but I've read of this damaging injectors too...

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1 hour ago, V8 Freak said:

Don't attempt to disassemble the actual injectors. very specialist work...

If you are referring to getting them out of the head, I use a long 5mm Allen key. 

In just the right place you can lever them out.  Slide hammer is the Land Rover way but I've read of this damaging injectors too...

yes, getting them out to fit new seals as you said. So I won't go for new plugs, and thank you very much for the info about the slide hammer not being the ultimate solution and the allen key being a good alternative.

 

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