DirkR Posted September 25, 2017 Share Posted September 25, 2017 Hello, I need some advice on how to separate the engine from the gearbox. I've dismantled my LR and all that's still hanging in the chassis is the engine and gearbox assembly (including fairey overdrive). Because of the weight, I want to remove them separately. I followed the manual, and removed the engine silent blocks and pulled the engine towards the front. Only nothing happened!!! Since I've never done this before, can anyone tell me what I can/should do to effectively separate them? Didn't I pull forwards enough? Do I first have to try to get some opening in the bellhouse with some fine tool? Use a rubber hammer? Put more force on it? Thanks for your advice & many greetings, dirk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted September 25, 2017 Share Posted September 25, 2017 Sometimes if they haven't been split in a long time you will need to give the engine a good shake and watch for a gap between the two and use a big screw driver / pry bar to help it along, just keep trying it will go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted September 26, 2017 Share Posted September 26, 2017 Like the man said, at times the engine & gearbox like each other so much they don't want to be parted.. Gentle help - pry bar, tapping - may help. Make sure you undid all the bolts.... Yes - it happens... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 26, 2017 Share Posted September 26, 2017 It does, and not just to series vehicles: Good luck with yours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted September 26, 2017 Share Posted September 26, 2017 It could be sticking splines on the clutch , with the gearstick assy. removed you should be able to get in there with some freeing oil , otherwise if all the nuts are off the studs it should split with some shaking about . Putting the box in 4th and low with the HB locked on and working the crank left to right may help . If it's still stuck extract all the studs to see if the block will rotate - this will show if it's the clutch splines stuck . Also removing the starter motor allows a short bit of wood in to hammer against the bell housing Keep us posted , what model series 3 is it ? Just out of interest 2.25 3mb diesel from the pic . cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirkR Posted September 26, 2017 Author Share Posted September 26, 2017 Thanks for the advice! This weekend I'll give it another go. I hope it is not as stuck as Eightpot's. It is indeed a 1979 series 3 SW 2,25 3MB diesel which hasn't been driven since at least january 17, 1987 since that was the date the technical inspection was due... more than 30 years ago... I hope for the best and keep you posted! dirk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirkR Posted October 2, 2017 Author Share Posted October 2, 2017 Hi Guys, So I gave it another try, together with my 2 sons of 21 and 23. We managed to get an opening of about 3 mm after about an hours work but they were anxious to do more pleasant things in their opinion, so we pulled it all out in one piece. I now hope it will be easier to separate the gearbox from the motor than vice versa... Anyway, I can now start cleaning the chassis... which is in my opinion still in good shape... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Goede Morgen Dirk ! Have a look around - recently a post on the same problem came by. With some creative solutions. Bush and / or splines most likely stuck on. Remove starter motor and give it a constant tensions and with hammer and wooden block bash away... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bandog Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 They can be a real pigs vag, persevere with it you are doing nothing wrong, soft deadblow mallets and blowlamps I would suggest. Good luck with the chassis, they usually go bad from the inside out. Pleanty of hammer work will remove loose crud from the inside, treat it before it goes back on the road, then fill in all the holes that can let water in off the wheels, but don't fill in the drain holes. Rover designed these to let water in for some reason with holes all over the place near road wheels, cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bandog Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 On 26/09/2017 at 9:26 AM, Bowie69 said: It does, and not just to series vehicles: Good luck with yours This really made me laugh, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secondjeremy Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Are you sure you've got the nut off the stud in the centre at the bottom of the bellhousing? You wouldn't be the first to forget it! Is that a Santana gearbox? (Ribbed casing) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirkR Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 @secondjeremy, I got them all off, so that one also I suppose... a Santana gearbox? I wouldn't know. If so, then it becomes more and more a mystery car... It was first registered in Belgium in 1980,june 27, but it has still a chassis number with 9 figures, 939.333.97C which means it was built in 1979 at the latest before the start of the VIN number. No problem with that. The guy I bought the car from, bought the car in 1984, after only 4,5 years of use. He didn't change the engine, but still my engine number is a strange KR1390. Now you mention the Santana gearbox... A replacement motor and gearbox all in 4,5 years... that's not normal I think. And a few days ago, I was looking for replacement doors and saw that my doors have the anti-burst locks from the stage 1 V8 and military models if I can believe the explanation that was given... @Bandog, I'll take my time for the chassis. Was thinking to open it up at the front by slicing the front off the dumb iron and weld it back on after really cleaning the chassis inside, treat it with a rust fixator and filling it up with anti rust spray... @Arjan, Goeie avond! I'll do that, but first I'm going to focus on the chassis and try to have it rolling again before winter sets in... but that's maybe to ambitious. Anyway, the motor will be for the winter. I'll transport it to my home so I can work on it in my garage. Greetings! dirk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bandog Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 If you have it down to the chassis it is dooable to turn it over upside down when finished and painted, inject plenty of waste oil or similar and keep rotating it, leave it over night, rotate and so on. this should get many more years out of it! Got any good long distance pigeons for sale in your town? Best Lager in the world, best racing pigeons in the world, Best ever tour de france winner! cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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