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LR S2 idles rough and stalls when engine hot


dgnevans

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I recently purchased a Land rover Series 2 Petrol. I have been working on it for the last 2 and half weeks. Started replacing bolts that were missing and nuts etc. When I got it, it would not idle and was giving some issues. I stripped the Zenith carb cleaned all the jets and put it back together. it was filled with dirt inside due to the vacuum advance not being connected. I blocked off the Vacuum advance till I got a pipe. The carburetor has the black sleeves on the idle and mixture screw. I had it idling fine would start easily no need for choke. I could not drive it as the rear half shaft was broken so replaced that this weekend. I then replaced fuel hoses and vacuum advance. It was idling fine when cold and warm. Took it for a drive about 5 km on way back if I decelerated to much it would stall. It was also stuttering if kept at constant speed. If I accelerate it seems fine. 

The point i am at is either check the Distributor and plugs to make sure there no issues there or strip the carburetor again, Maybe some dust was introduced by the new hoses. Any suggestions 

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Just an update. I removed spark plugs to check condition and check gap. they all look in good order. spark gap was 0.4 mm about 0.016" on 3 of them and 7mm 0.028 . The points were set to 0.5 mm 0.020". I adjusted the plugs to 0.75 mm 0.030" and the points to 0.4mm 0.016" It does not start now. I checked I am getting a spark not sure if it is strong enough and vehicle backfires on the 4th engine turn over or if I pump the accelerator. I am suspecting a faulty coil or timing is out. I have checked the firing order is correct. 1342 and that I have position 1 correct on the distributor by turning engine over by hand till i felt compression stroke on 1. any suggestions.

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On 01/10/2017 at 8:12 PM, dgnevans said:

I recently purchased a Land rover Series 2 Petrol. I have been working on it for the last 2 and half weeks. Started replacing bolts that were missing and nuts etc. When I got it, it would not idle and was giving some issues. I stripped the Zenith carb cleaned all the jets and put it back together. it was filled with dirt inside due to the vacuum advance not being connected. I blocked off the Vacuum advance till I got a pipe. The carburetor has the black sleeves on the idle and mixture screw. I had it idling fine would start easily no need for choke. I could not drive it as the rear half shaft was broken so replaced that this weekend. I then replaced fuel hoses and vacuum advance. It was idling fine when cold and warm. Took it for a drive about 5 km on way back if I decelerated to much it would stall. It was also stuttering if kept at constant speed. If I accelerate it seems fine. 

The point i am at is either check the Distributor and plugs to make sure there no issues there or strip the carburetor again, Maybe some dust was introduced by the new hoses. Any suggestions 

Does the carb look new or old as the newer chinease made Zeniths are troublesome as there isn't much you can do with them bit like a Weber carb, the older Zeniths are a lot easier to work on but can ware due to age and I don't think you can get parts for them anymore so I think your only choice is to replace it with a Weber and grip you teeth.

I would replace the plugs and points and or if you can upgrade to an electronic ignition distributor as there a more reliable, hope this helps

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so today I removed spark plug 1 got engine to tdc . checked timing. put distributor back together. found I had put plug leads one postion anticlockwise to many. car started well. idling better since I adjust the spark plug gap and points and set timing. may need to adjust timing slightly once tested. got engine nice and hot. Cut out appears to be fuel starvation. check fuel hoses could not find an issue. appears the electric fuel pump is cavitating or has vaccum lock.it is at bottom of bulkhead. should I move it closer to the fuel tank. is there a way to remove the guts of the old mechanical fuel pump so I can store them somewhere safe as it makes a knocking sound and appears a liitle oil coming from the lifter. there is no glass bowl or pipes connected. 

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