Troll Hunter Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 I'm seeking views from the bigger brain of forum members as to what are the best methods for removing original LR paint from steel and from birmabrite, please? Nitromors, Mr. grinder, wire brush in a drill, elbow grease, blow-torch, or something else? All can be used, but what is the most efficient, in both time and resulting finish? All views will be gratefully received and considered, thank you. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davo Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 I certainly wouldn't use anything like a grinder or a wire brush on Birmabright as it would gouge in a split second. You'll need some sort of paint stripper, and I'd ask a boatyard for advice since they would probably do this sort of thing a lot. Of course, I'm sure you realise that once the aluminium is stripped it will be exposed to air and will need some sort of protection or priming and so on and so forth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 I’m a big fan of 3M Clean and strip discs for paint and rust removal, they hardly seem to touch the parent metal Caveat: I have not used them on birmabright Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 Soda blasting? Walnut media? Known to be least harsh on soft metals Chemical strippers are nasty and require lots of cleaning afterwards; they do work but I'd leave to a specialist. Most abrasives will require refining to get to a paintable level so cue lots of elbow grease, time and patience. I bare-metalled 95% of my 90 prior to paint/colour change and without doubt the body work prep was the most time consuming of the rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 Oh and the quikstrip wheels come in different grades...the harsher ones I've tried will strip paint and birmabright if you get carried away 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted October 10, 2017 Author Share Posted October 10, 2017 Thanks for the tips, and the warnings. I don't need to paint strip the entire vehicle, mainly just the parts where surface repair is needed. I'll then be using steel wool and/or fine sandpaper/flap wheels to prep the surface before priming and repainting the whole vehicle, while it's mainly in separate panels, but without a colour change. I'll be taking a panel down to our local vehicle paint shop to be colour analysed and the appropriate blend made up. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 I bought the cheapest DA sander that Screwfix sold before respraying the 90, it worked brilliantly on steel and alloy and was cheaper than a tin of paint stripper/caused less damage than a wire cup. 80 grit rapidly worked through brush-applied and factory paint, then 240 and 500 for finer work. Removing the dust bag and attaching an old Henry hoover to the outlet meant the sanding pads lasted a lot longer whilst causing less mess in the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davo Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 That's a really good idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted October 14, 2017 Author Share Posted October 14, 2017 !991 110CSW originally with a 3.5V8 but later replaced with a 300Tdi Right! Taking on board the warnings given, which seem to be very sound, I'm planning to get various bits sandblasted and then galved. Since my weld repair on some of these non-load bearing items is not "body work perfect" are there any comments about me using post galv body filler to achieve a suitable finish? I'm particularly concerned about the steel waistline trims which had severe tin worm attack around the weld areas about 8 inches from the rear corner where the corner section had been welded to the longer side section. I'm thinking that once the base material is galved then anything on top will only enhance longevity. Please let me know if I'm away with the fairies, or I have a down to earth system to end up with a good finished panel. Many thanks to you all, from an absolute beginner in body work, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davo Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 I've never heard of anyone putting body filler on top of a galvanised surface. It takes a bit just to get paint to stick, so with filler . . . I don't know. Do you have any pictures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted October 14, 2017 Author Share Posted October 14, 2017 No, not yet. It's just that getting back to a body work finish with only welding,, when you are a total pillock at welding, seems a good way to go. Appropriate priming/etching will be applied. Once the base material is covered with zinc it seems that anything else on top will be beneficial. The final finish will be proper body paint, to Rolls Royce standard, of course! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 You get filler specifically designed for awkward metals like galv and aluminium https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Bondo-Professional-Gold-Filler?N=5002385+8709313+8711413+8746138+3293242371&rt=rud Straight onto bare finish but it doesn’t mention t-wash/mordant solution prior to application. I’d be tempted to drop their tech line an email to see. On my bulkhead I t-washed, etch primed and then hit it with multiple layers of high build primer that could be flatted back to a nice paint worthy level. It came out well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted October 15, 2017 Author Share Posted October 15, 2017 Thanks for the link to Bondo. I've heard people reference it so I'm sure it's available here, and I know it's available south of the border. I'll post some before and after piccies when I'm done. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davo Posted October 15, 2017 Share Posted October 15, 2017 Are you doing all this because you're planning to drive it on salty winter roads? I've done that, and learned about how galvanising isn't the ultimate for that situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 A friend recommended Poly Abrasive discs: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+Tool+Accessories/d80/Wire+Abrasives/sd1920/Poly+Abrasive+Disc/p18114 Stripped back my van sides with these and they were an eye opener. Didn't cut down into the metal at all. Used three for two series 3 sides for the 110. Did melt my el cheapo mains 4.5" grinder gearbox but apart from the batteries needing cooling down my Milwaukee M18 grinder did the job grandly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted October 20, 2017 Author Share Posted October 20, 2017 Yes, Davo, but the galv is part of a duplex protective system. It's all gonna be primed and painted with black chassis paint. However, please tell me if there is a better alternative to galv. If I can save some $$$$ that would be great. Thanks, Ed, for sharing your experience with Poly Abrasive. I'll see if I can source anything like it locally. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davo Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 Well, I don't know if there's a better alternative. I think galvanising followed by some sort of industrial paint would be best. I just found out after a few winters that the galv on some parts had corroded through to rusty metal, which was what I had been trying to avoid! I was surprised by how quickly and how badly it had happened. It looked like once the salt had found a weak spot, it had gotten in and enlarged the area. I seem to remember this also happening in between two galvanised parts that were bolted together as well. I had tried to keep the car clean during winter, and especially in the spring, but of course it's hard to wash under a car when it's below freezing. (Note: I had freewheeling hubs on the front and hadn't locked them enough during winter. Result: rusted front axle parts inside! Never again!) Do you have anyone you can ask, like snow plow and salt truck drivers, anyone in an industry like fishing, something like that? I solved the problem by moving back to Australia, but I've always wondered what I would have done over there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 Galv galv galv galv galv galv, then boring paint... and it should last pretty much forever... but I am a little bias just now after having heavily invested in galving a fair quantity of bolt on accessories, and I've got a spare bulkhead which will be going there next... and I'll probably get a set of body capping's done too for when the inevitable happens... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davo Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 If you're going to galvanise a bulkhead, be very very careful as they're so much more delicate than what those monkeys usually handle. I had one destroyed, and its replacement dented. It's the perfect way to protect that big collection of rust-traps, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 If you are preparing bodywork for repaint you really dont need polydiscs, flapwheels, wire grinders etc unless there is some problem material you need to remove or cleaning up metal for welding etc. You will make work for yourself. Use an air or electric DA sander, 240 grit or 120 for shaping filler. You just need to provide a clean flat surface for your high build primer coat - if the paint won't come off without serious mechanical flaying with wire, its safe to say it's a sound surface and can be left attached to the metal.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted November 1, 2017 Author Share Posted November 1, 2017 More good tips and experience, thank you. I haven't started any bodywork yet, having just finished bukhead welding and fabbing a new front bumper from 3/16th plate. A pile of bits have gone to be galved, about 50 in total, including the new bumper, body cappings, bulkhead and a mass of brackets and smaller fittings that are exposed to the hostile winter conditions. Yes, they use copious amounts of salt on the highways here, and the tin worms thrive. So, in a couple of weeks I hope to be able to show a couple of pics of bright, shiny bits. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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