Wheely Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 Hey all, I changed my hub seals yesterday and my mechanic told me the the driving member teeth are all eaten up so I should get another one - few questions: 1-if the driving member has the teeth eaten up, is another part also worth being replaced? 2- what driving member would you suggest buying? worth upgrading to the HD ones like these: https://bearmach.com/heavy-duty-drive-member-nut-br-0465a Thanks for your support as always! Cheers Simone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 the 'teeth' are the splines which engage with the matching splines on end of each driveshaft, the splines in the driving members will wear quicker than the much harder driveshaft splines, keep the ends of the driveshafts lubricated either with bearing grease or pop the internal seal out of the stub axle & let the axle oil get to the shaft end/driving member splines. upgrading to the HD variant [there are others like Ashcroft --http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/drive-flanges.html it depends on how generous your piggy bank/bank manager is feeling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheely Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 great - that reassures me, thanks Western! I have a dedicated 'upgrade Defender' saving account - so if you guys feel this upgrade is worth 90 quid (for 2) I can do it! What would be the benefit of the HD against the original ones? cheers, SImone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 I suppose it depends on two things: How you use your Landy and how long you expect to keep it. After over 25 years and well over 300k km one drive member failed. So, I fitted a normal one, rather than HD, since I do relatively mild off-roading and no competition work. For me, the cost of an HD one would be a complete waste of money. I totally agree with Western regarding omitting the oil seal and allowing differential oil to lubricate the splines of the half-shaft and drive member. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 I prefer the standard drive flanges unless you have also uprated the shafts, diff and transmission - the flanges are soft and will often strip their splines before you break anything more expensive, acting as a mechanical fuse. They last long if you remove or wreck the internal seal in the stub axle (300Tdi and later). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 The hd flanges also have the screw on caps which is a big plus if you do a lot of offroading Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulN Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Nice! I think Western has already answered this but - if you only upgrade to HD drive members does that mean one ought to upgrade to HD shafts as well because now the wear will be on the shafts more than the members? .....or have you now just matched the hardness? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 Stay with standard, it think aftermarket HD ones look odd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheely Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 Cool thanks for your suggestions guys, much appreciated. I'd then stick with the standard ones as I don't do competition and my offroading is light with my heavy 6 wheelers beast! Are there different part numbers for these drive flanges or all are the same ? worth buying then the ashcroft standard one: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/drive-flanges/ruc105200.html Shall I change all of the six whilst I am at it, or just the front pair (since one of them got busted)? When you say: 'pop the internal seal out of the stub axle & let the axle oil get to the shaft end/driving member splines' you mean to pinch the hub seal for some of the EP90 to flow across? wouldn't that eventually lead all of the oil to finish? Thanks! Simone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 There is a seal on the stub axle that seals the hub from the axle tube.....get rid of it. as far as I know there are only 2 types of flange, thick and thin so aslong as you get the matching one you’ll be ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 1 hour ago, dangerous doug said: There is a seal on the stub axle that seals the hub from the axle tube.....get rid of it. as far as I know there are only 2 types of flange, thick and thin so aslong as you get the matching one you’ll be ok The thick ones where the early type, thinner ones later not sure about precise time they came in but they moved to thinner flanges around the time of the 300tdi introduction so around 1993-94 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheely Posted October 28, 2017 Author Share Posted October 28, 2017 (edited) Thanks - i will look into it when replacing the drive flange and remove the seal. Mine is a 1995 110 (VIN: SALLDHMV8TA975201) - the front axle number is: 64I 17310A - what type of flange would I then have? I have already bought a bunch of parts that didn't fit as I didn't do a thorough research before buying - would rather avoid doing the same this time round The OEM is 24 quid for a pair - the Ashcroft standard one (not HD) is 36 - worth the difference to get Ashcroft ? is there a gasket I also need to buy when fitting a new drive flange? thanks for your support Edited October 28, 2017 by Wheely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted October 29, 2017 Share Posted October 29, 2017 I'd go for the std. Ashcroft , you will have peace of mind that they will be good quality , and in the unlikely event you have any problems the tech and customer support will be there. Can you give us a pic of your current ones to help identify early or late type . cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheely Posted October 31, 2017 Author Share Posted October 31, 2017 Here you go - these are the previous ones - is it so bad like the mechanic says? shall i also buy gaskets? --> ''There is a seal on the stub axle that seals the hub from the axle tube'' --> What's the part number of the seal that I should remove? so i can see the picture and make sure i remove the right one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 That looks ok to me - what do others think ? Are the splines on the half shaft ok too ? Certainly nowhere near failing I'd say . Later style drive member by the way . cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 With the flange unbolted but still engaged on the shaft, any wear can be easily seen by rocking it. Those teeth are loads better than mine were. I could have cut my skin on them they were so sharp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheely Posted October 31, 2017 Author Share Posted October 31, 2017 thanks for the feedback - so basically the sharper they get the more likely that they will fail? I will fit them back and assess if have some play - how much play is allowed before these have to be replaced? I am going on a 2000km trip in central Ghana soon so it'd be good to be set on this Thanks Simone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 grease the splines before refitting the drive member, it'll help the m last longer, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 Those splines look a little worn, but not in any immediate trouble. I'd say they have another few years of typical driving left. They will be increasing backlash and clunking of the transmission, but not doing any harm. Gen Parts replacements aren't very expensive (pattern parts will likely be made of very poor materials and will last shorter than those old ones have left on them), so it comes down to how fussy you are. For clarification, the seal you need to remove is inside the stub axle or the end of the main axle case, not the hub seal next to the wheel bearing. You will be able to see it with the shaft removed. Tearing the seal with a long knife will suffice if you don't want to fully remove it - the hub doesn't need to be awash with oil to improve spline life, just splashed. The only issue that this mod may cause is the plastic cap at the centre of the flange leaking or even popping off, which would allow slow oil loss. A smear of RTV sealant on the mating faces of the cap and flange will prevent that, but the surfaces do need to be clean for it to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheely Posted November 1, 2017 Author Share Posted November 1, 2017 ok makes sense - if I was to grease the splines (by removing the drive flange) before every long trip would the same result be achieved or still better to perform this mod? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 When my drive member failed the internal splines were almost totally worn away. They were just slight ridges within the bore, but the axle half-shaft was virtually unworn. However, since drive members are relatively cheap it might be smart to take a couple with you on your planned trip. They only take a few minutes to replace if failure occurs on the road. When I had one rear member fail I didn't have a spare available and had to wait for delivery from UK, so I welded the end of the half-shaft to the old drive member, and drove several hundred kilometers like that. I fully endorse removing/destorying the oil seal to allow differential oil to lubricate the drive splines. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Greasing the splines occasionally should protect them as much as oiling them with the seal removed. When you get the new drive flange, make sure to get a new cap (and maybe a spare or two). I'd also recommend getting Genuine LR ones. I found them to be far more supple and better sealing than after market ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 13 hours ago, Wheely said: ok makes sense - if I was to grease the splines (by removing the drive flange) before every long trip would the same result be achieved or still better to perform this mod? The problem with that is that the grease is centrifugally thrown to the circumference of the hub. The same happens with oil, but it will run back to the splines when parked. So, greasing is good, but removing or wrecking the seals is better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Is this a job for rocol anti scuff paste? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheely Posted May 15, 2018 Author Share Posted May 15, 2018 Hello guys, back in November I didn't change this and just libricated the part. After my last trip i noticed that there is quite some play in the driving member and the piece it connects to, the shaft - the spines got very sharp now and my local mechanic says that also the shaft now has to be changed... In case i also need to change the shaft, leaving aside the price, shall I go for the HD ones? cheers, Simone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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