Maverik Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 Hi folks, Looking for recommendations for black gloss type paint for doing external vehicle fitting and fixtures, for example front winch bumper, corner steps, rock slides, wheel carrier etc etc... Items are freshly galvanised so I know they need mordant'ing etc... POR15 not an option, evidently it is UV unstable and needs an overcoat ULTRA-VIOLET SENSITIVITY POR-15® is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be topcoated for prolonged exposure to sunlight. Failure to do this may result in long-term damage to the POR-15® coating. Topcoating is not required for areas not exposed to sunlight. http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Technical-Information_ep_62.html Do your best... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 We used to use truck/bus chassis paint from the local commercial paint suppliers, thins down nicely, cheap by the gallon, designed to be tough & idiot proof. Buzzweld seem to do some good stuff, got a tin of their matt stuff not sure about gloss but I believe it's mostly made by Corroless and contains glass to make it hard as nails. TSD put me on to it after a thread on here discussed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cactus Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 I'd leave the galvanised finish... No need to protect it and..... No paint sticks to Galvwithout a GGOOD etch primer!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 There is a need to protect it though Cactus... the zinc layer is sacrificial and only protects the steel by corroding itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 35 minutes ago, cactus said: No need to protect it and..... The galv only protects the steel by sacrificing itself, so any paint WILL hold corrosion at bay even longer. You could probably double th elife of the chassis for £50 worth of paint. With the cost of new chassis now, that has got to be worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 I use jotun paint, on galv penguard hb primer and xp flexi topcoat. The topcoat is really tough. But these are both 2 pack,and a bit fiddly to mix up. I have heard jotun conseal is good as a 1 pack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 4 hours ago, Maverik said: POR15 not an option, evidently it is UV unstable and needs an overcoat If thats your only objection to the stuff, then you need POR15 and then POR15 TopCoat? http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Top-Coat-DTM-Paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetalMagus Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 (edited) Try giving Craig at Buzzweld.co.uk a shout. He has a hard wearing gloss black paint that would work. http://www.buzzweld.co.uk/ClassicGloss1000.html Cheers Sean Edited October 27, 2017 by MetalMagus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted October 27, 2017 Author Share Posted October 27, 2017 17 minutes ago, MetalMagus said: Try giving Craig at Buzzweld.co.uk a shout. He has a hard wearing gloss black paint that would work. http://www.buzzweld.co.uk/ClassicGloss1000.html Cheers Sean Just sent a inquiry to them from the website, interesting company, I have a lot of time for these folk whom build up a business out of a necessity they have found lacking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 I've been using the Sherwin-Williams Macropoxy 646, industrial/marine fast-cure 1:1 epoxy for a bit now after getting disappointing performance from everything else I've tried. So far it is amazing, a bit thick but it covers very well and hardens like nothing else I've used. It is also fuel-proof and salt-immersion rated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 https://protective.sherwin-williams.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-26179%3Aproduct-6843 Also quite affordable, paid about $170CAD for 8L (4L part-A and 4L part-B) and it can be tinted to nearly any of their standard colours. I'm using a satin-black for base-coat and will be spraying colour over top, the best thing is you can add coats up to 12 months after the basecoat goes on with no surface prep (other than cleaning). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davo Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 On 10/24/2017 at 7:20 PM, landroversforever said: There is a need to protect it though Cactus... the zinc layer is sacrificial and only protects the steel by corroding itself. I'm not sure about this. The zinc will corrode to the point where the corrosion provides a protective layer and everything underneath is protected. Plenty of things that live outside are galvanised and last for decades. Of course, once you get into salt immersion and really bad conditions then that's another story. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 Zinc works by corroding instead of the steel (a sacrificial metal coating), it is not like aluminium that forms an impenetrable oxide layer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davo Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 4 hours ago, Bowie69 said: Zinc works by corroding instead of the steel (a sacrificial metal coating), it is not like aluminium that forms an impenetrable oxide layer. Thanks for that. I was hoping someone would come along and explain it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 Mav, I really would advise against painting your external appendage. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPendrey Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 20 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said: Mav, I really would advise against painting your external appendage. Mo I'd recommend he doesn't make it external... less trouble with the police. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 On 01/12/2017 at 12:54 PM, Davo said: Thanks for that. I was hoping someone would come along and explain it. So in other words, by painting it, you stop the galvanising corroding, so it will last longer before the steel corrodes underneath. For a vehicles, especially one where you get more snow (salt) in winter, I would always paint even galvanised parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 I also reckon that galvanised parts, particularly a chassis, let would be theives know that your LR is particularly worth taking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 11 minutes ago, monkie said: I also reckon that galvanised parts, particularly a chassis, let would be theives know that your LR is particularly worth taking. That would be my reason - paint it black, even quite badly, to hide the value. I'm contrary enough to buy some of that rat-rod spray-on rust-effect paint and go over the top to make it look proper crusty just for badness 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davo Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 Bloody hell, look at this sensible advice that's just popped up! Am I on the right internet??? And here I am, thinking that galvanising lasts for nearly ever. (Well, it almost does up here where it hardly rains.) So I'd better paint that galvanised chassis I've got, after all. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 Sorry, couldn't resist 😊 Mo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 39 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said: Sorry, couldn't resist 😊 Mo Great song, great advice! Always reminds me of Full Metal Jacket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 I'd recommend Craig's Buzzweld stuff. Painted my new rear axle with Chassis In One and its holding up well so far. If you can I'd go for the thinner option and spray it on in lots of coats with a pause of maybe 30 minutes between coats. I tried some bits brush painted and some with an underbody "Shultz" gun and spray painting not only appears better but appears to be tougher too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 I've used 2 part epoxy chassis paint, it's very durable and sticks like doo-doo to a blanket. Not sure about galv, mine was on top of bare metal and old paint. This stuff http://www.rust.co.uk/em-121-epoxy-rust-proofing-chassis-paint/c28117/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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