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My 24 year old 200tdi rebuild


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Finished for today, run out of daylight,

110 won't fit in garage so doing this all outside on my driveway, biggest bit left to refit now is radiator/intercooler assembly & associated coolant,oil cooler & intercooler hoses/pipes. 

a few pics of how far I got today, 

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Once it's running again, hopefully tomorrow, I'll be using it normally for the next 400/500 miles not treating it harshly or with heavy acceleration, worked first time when engine was brand factory new back in 1994.

Yes got some running in oil -- https://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/golden-film-running-in-oil.html states on tech data sheet Golden Film running-in oil should be used for 25 hours or 500 miles to permit controlled wear allowing surfaces to mate and bed-in.

once this is done, it'll get a full oil & filter change with a good quality 10W/40 or 15W/40 multigrade

bought & fitted on of excess 4x4's magnetic sump plugs to, so any particles that need removing will be grabbed by the magnet.

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So today's progress so far [stopped for some lunch] 

turbo oil feed & drain hoses, new dipstick tube,exhaust down pipe, boost pipe from FIP to turbo, radiator/intercooler assembly, oil cooler hoses, bottom rad hose & header tank hoses, slam panel & supports, grille panel, winch cables & cover, Radiator cowling & fan all refitted.

next to do is top rad hoses, intercooler pipes, fill with oil & water [plain water for now, as I'm waiting new coolant hoses to arrive. so don't want to waste the new antifreeze] reconnect batteries, crank engine over to prime oil & fuel systems & try a start up. [fingers crossed] still have the gearbox tunnel & floor plates/mats to refit in the cab too.

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Brilliant write-up and great photos.  This will be a sound tutorial for anybody else rebuilding their engine.  

Regarding magnetic drain plugs, I've used commercially available super magnets, round, about 2-3mm thick and 18mm diameter, on all my non-magnetic drain plugs, including on differentials.  I just put the magnet on the plug before fitting the plug.  Initially, I had difficulty getting the plug into the thread because the magnet would pull the plug out of alignment with the thread and onto the surrounding steel.  I solved this by holding a short, ~20mm, section of plastic or aluminium pipe, that the plug would just fit inside, around the hole.  This acts as a guide and maybe a magnetic shield and it's still fiddly but much less frustrating. 

Mike

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Well my 110/200tdi lives, after a few crank overs to circulate oil & fuel it burst into running, cracked the injectors to bleed, all OK,  also found a split in one turbo elbow hose, at the moment it's taped up, you'll see it in the video, also going to replace the 4 hose joints & all the coolant hoses as the existing ones have been on a very long time. ordered new hoses from MKPerformancehoses on ebay, I have their crank breather hoses already. 

still have to refit -- floor plates.tunnel & adaptor under fusebox, mats, gear lever top section, start battery on charge over night too. 

a big thanks to 2 of my work mates for the loan of the engine crane, engine stand & piston ring compressor. :i-m_so_happy:

a short video [as requested by monkie] just to finish on. :D :i-m_so_happy::i-m_so_happy:

 

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Thanks Guys & Taz :i-m_so_happy:I thought the battery was going to die on me, but I have an internal jump start between winch & vehicle battery, so the extra bit of amps got it spinning enough to pull the fuel through, oil pressure stone cold was around 55 to 60 psi 

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 Thanks for that absolutely brilliant write up Western, with some great photos. The video of it coming back to life was the cherry on the cake for me. I've enjoyed watching the progress, hope it does another 379,500 miles service for you.:)

Just one thing I was curious about - I noticed that you took the engine both out and back in again with the head off. I've always done both with the head on. Do you find it more straight forward with the head off in terms of seeing the engine back on to the gear box bell housing?

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Did it that way to make the lifting out & in a bit easier for me, removed the engine on my own with a engine crane from Brandon tool hire in Truro, a workmate lent me his crane to put it back in, even with 2 of us fitting it in was hard work my drive isn't very smooth [tarmac] most cranes are meant for nice smooth workshop floors. 

glad you liked the video, I did crank it over a few times to build the oil pressure up before the full start up. 

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3 hours ago, daveturnbull said:

That's all come together fairly quickly. You make it look easy.

Without being too nosy, I'm curious as to roughly how much as DIY rebuild like this has cost, and how many hours you have invested in it.

I'll work out cost & manhours over the coming weekend

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43 minutes ago, western said:

no bits left over,

Surely that’s a a great thing??? How many times have you taken something apart, and put it back to find you’ve missed something out the first time!

 

i know I have!

great to see all went well and it’s back on the road.

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not back on the road just yet, decided to replace all the coolant system hose, the 4 flex elbow joint on intercooler pipes, new stainless steel hose clamps to, waiting for those to arrive, engine just has plain water in it for now,

a) it'll flush the cooling system out

&

b) I won't be wasting new antifreeze,

which is waiting to go in once the new hoses are fitted. then it's back on the road & MOT due on 14th but booked in for Friday 10th afternoon.

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On 11/6/2017 at 5:51 PM, western said:

I'll work out cost & manhours over the coming weekend

just added up the cost outlay, some items are not essential to the rebuild but I've decided to replace any way, so total is £2646.58, still less than a full recon unit from a well known LR engine supplier, so I've saved myself at least £1700 & have the satisfaction of DIY. I wanted to keep the original engine number too.

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