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DRLs using a Stop / tail fitting where the side lights fit

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has anyone used, or thought about using a clear white LED Stop / Tail bulb, in a clear lens bulb holder mounted in place of the front side lights? so as to achive a DLR on the front without mounting extra lights

Do you have a circuit diagram or any other advice?

You could simply use a relay to turn off the 21W, or brake element when the headlights come on

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The led side lights (nas size but not land rover) I have on the ibex do this but I  haven't wired them up. Can't remember exactly but I think they can only come on when the engines running and the lights are off.

Mike

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A couple of relays does the trick. Sorry for the text beeing in norwegian, but I'll try to explain.

The 4 pin NO relay:

Ignition or Charge light into 86, and ground on pin 85, with 12 volt feed into 87 and out on pin 30. Then you connect this to parking/tail light.

The 5 pin Alternating relay:

From park light switch into pin 86, and ground on 85. From 12 volt feed into pin 87. And from pin 87a to DRL-lamps. This ould be 21 watts positionlights up front, or dimmed headlight, or LED DRL or ... And  Then From pin 30 on the 4-pin relay to 30 on the 5 pin relay (same as park/position/tail lights).

But you do problem is that you could get both 5watt and 21watt "parking light" at the same time...

 

kjorelys.jpg

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I run the 110 with LED "parkinglights" and they very much act like DRL's.. :blush:

Those things are BRIGHT !!!

Flip them on with the switch - or use something electronic like Finnarne wrote about.

Me, I just use the light switch as there are no ECU's in the 110.

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I've never quite grasped the concept of daylight running lights, when you have a perfectly good set of lamps on the front of a vehicle that you can just switch on? I drive around in my 90 with side and headlamps on as standard. But not to muddy the water from the original topic post.

You could do this quite simply using a double pole type relay and some basic relay logic, as per above.

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Can anyone tell me the type of of bulb base that fits into the standard landrover 110 / SIII rear Stop - Tail lamp fitting?

 

cheers 

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I like the idea of running DRLs. I couldn't see the the point of them originally but on gloomy winters days it does make more cars more visible at a further distance, improving safety so they'e grown on me.

However I think you'll melt the bulb holder keeping a 21w filament lit for more than a few minutes.

The alternative is LED but standard looking sidelight LED DRLs are not easy to find, in fact, the only ones I know are the Nakatanenga versions which are frighteningly expensive.

Mo

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My idea is to use a white LED replacement for the 21W / 5W bulb in a rear Tail / Stop fitting, but with a white lens, in place of the usual sidelight fitting.

I agree that an incandescent 21W would melt the lens

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At night the idea with headlights is you can see the road. Drls the idea is people can see you in the day. The drls tend to be brighter but not focused as much.  A good led drl in the daylight should draw more attention than a standard head light.  I retro fitted drls to one of my cars (decent job not £5 Halfords) and it was much more visible.

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I ran NAS lights all 4 corners since I've had the truck, always used 21w bulbs and they've always been fine. I've recent upgraded the NAS fittings to what I think is either a military or genuine Land Rover "NAS" type fitting - the plugs and unit are much more durable and the bulb holder to lens body has a proper O ring in rather than a silly foam gasket. In addition to the lens change I changed all the bulbs to the 125 lumen LED filament bulbs from Halfords, really happy with the results.

Still don't really agree with the DLR concept, people now think they are more visible with front lights. but no ones mentioned rear... but that's not the point and I'll happily agree to disagree :)

Back to bulbs... now Halfords do a "double filament" LED bulb as used for break lights, I recently went in and purchased a clear set with exactly the same number/configuration of LEDs but with only one input pin on the bottom of the bulb, now I could quite easily see that you could buy a set of each led bulbs and switch the bottoms over, so you in effect get a double LED filament bulb, i.e. the centre could be used as a DLR as it quite focused (this is usually the break light filament LED) and the outer LED's would work normally as side lights...

This is the white version single contact

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/bulbs-blades-batteries/car-bulbs/halfords-382-p21w-led-car-bulbs-x-2

 

This is the brake light double contact

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Halfords-Premium-382-P21W-LED-Car-Upgrade-Replacement-Light-Bulb-/321881385342

 

I like the Halfords stuff over a lot of others as the LED's are usually protect from moisture where as a lot of the ones you see on fleebay have open circuit boards, and running them in a standard wipec NAS light I found they couldn't handle the moisture ingress.

 

Addendum: on reading the package, the tail light ones could already be White, I never checked them out of the housing which has a red filter, will check it when I get home, in which case you've got a decent LED twin filament bulb you could relatively easily convert...

 

I swear someone's missing a trick with this LED technology moving into automobile market...

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I did this on my Puma with a clear stop/tail base and white LED bulbs. 

I still have the loom somewhere so could post it to you for the price of the postage if its any use to you. It picks power up from a plug on the passenger side near the bulkhead and the dim/dip in the drivers side wing IIRC.

 

Quote
I then set about doing some electrics, I love a good plug and play loom and I hate unsightly red wires here, there and everywhere like you see on a lot of Land Rovers when people fit extra equipment. I also fancied something different to the DRL bumpers that everyone has fitted.
 
I spent a couple of hours building up a nice loom for my DRL lights which are basically a high powered LED stop/tail bulb.
 
I fitted a stop/tail bulb base into the side light opening and, using a couple of relays, took permanent power from the obsolete dim/dip plug and ignition power from an unused pin on the connector for the wing loom. Nice, easy plug and play loom with no wires chopped and can be fitted/removed in 5 mins!
 
The DRL/side lights have two functions:
 
1. High light output for DRL when side/dipped beam is off
 
2. Reduced light output for sidelights when side/dipped beam is on
 
I'm really pleased with how it all fitted together, I'm just on the lookout for some higher powered bulbs now for extra DRL goodness.
normal_image~5.jpg
 
The top image shows the DRL setting which is on with the vehicles ignition, when side or headlights are selected on the stalk the bulbs dim as in the second image
 
normal_image~20.jpg

 

 

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We have had DRLs since the mid 90s.  No pedestrian has ever been blinded by one....  Most modern DRLs are MUCH dimmer than the headlamps.  The law, of course, should be that all running lights are on, all of the time.  People are not smart enough to turn on lights when needed.

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DRLs over here tend to be a strip of extremely bright, white LEDs, that do glare quite badly, especially when people with lit up dashboards don't realise they still need to put their headlamps on when it gets dark!

 

 

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I look forward to seeing how it works out, Oakmaster. Please keep us up to date with how it all progresses 👍

Mo

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Funny - was just thinking about that - Sadly that task is languishing at Number 14,382 on my To Do' list 

  • Haha 1

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Well, I've just made mine 👍

Love 'em or hate them, it's something I've wanted to do for a while and Oakmaster's musings have spurred me on.

A couple of things I want to share is

a) bulb length - LED bulbs can be quite long so measure the length between bulb holder and lens and compare with LED lengths on descriptions on ebay etc. before buying. Land rover lights vary in size according to manufacturer, and check both are the same (mine weren't !) It'll save tears before bedtime. 

b) I've switched mine from ignition live not engine running because for me it was simpler (I already have an ignition switched fusebox) and I could use just one normally closed relay to switch off the DRLs when the side lights come on.

Hope that helps someone

Mo

20190612_180846.jpg

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