=jon= Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 Hi The time is almost here to pull out the wheezy 3.5 and replace it with a shiny 4.6 However - as it's an auto it's possibly a little more complex than with a manual. Are there any pearls of wisdom as to how to split it and put it back together? ie. are we better off splitting the box from the engine, and leaving the torque converter bolted to the engine or unbolting it (via the inspection cover?) and leaving it in the gearbox? Likewise when refitting it? I believe Ashcroft recommend leaving it in the box. Any advice much appreciated! Cheers Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 I would suggest trying to leave the TC attached in the gearbox regardless. Less chance of damaging the seal and torque converter... Alignment of the two sets of splines is hard enough with the gearbox standing vertical, so getting the angles lines up and both drive and oil pump splines with the engine dangling and swinging around should be avoided. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 Yes, leave attached if at all possible, even if just to stem the flow of blood from under your truck when you pull it off. I don't find them bad to line up to be honest, I have done a few with the box still in the car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 (edited) Leave it attached to the gearbox. Be aware that it isn't bolted to the gearbox, just pushed onto it & will happily slide forward & fall off if you don't use something to hold it in place. If it does it is very very heavy, contains a lot of fluid which will spill all over the place (guess how I know) & it can be a complete pig to get back on with the gearbox in situ. It MUST be seated on the gearbox to the depth given - measured from a straight edge across the front of the bellhousing to the top of any of the 4 threaded bosses on the front of the TC. This ensures that the cutouts on the tube on the gearbox side of the TC have correctly engaged with the fluid pump in the gearbox. If it isn't then whilst you can put the engine back on & bolt it all up you will have split the pump in the box. No pump = no pressure = no drive & you get to take it all off again. (Also the reason why you can't just bolt it to the engine) Also an idea to have a couple of short lengths of threaded rod which you fit into a couple of the bellhousing to engine bolt holes in the back of the engine. Help to line the box & engine up making the whole process a lot safer & easier. Once the two are mated & you've got a couple of bolts in just remove the rods & fit the rest of the bolts. Edited November 19, 2017 by paintman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted November 20, 2017 Author Share Posted November 20, 2017 Thanks everyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted November 21, 2017 Share Posted November 21, 2017 I notice I didn't put a figure in for the correct distance between the straightedge & the bosses. This link to Ashcroft gives them: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=51 My own 1986 3.5EFi with ZF4HP22 is given in the LR factory manual as 50mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted November 22, 2017 Share Posted November 22, 2017 When i put the autobox into it, i found taking out floor panels and centre tunnel sufficed to get a crane through the door. Obviously i fitted the box up to the engne, so i would say splitting is easier. Also removing the TB first makes life easier. p.s. If you are keeping the autobox you may need a bigger TC for the 4.6, IIRC i had the medium one fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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