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300TDi overhaul

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I'd just assumed the crank was still in for some reason :)

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The crank probably will need attention to the main bearings and main journals at this mileage; it is probably worth trying to find a good used one?

 

Daan

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19 hours ago, vulcan bomber said:

Pistons can go out the bottom if the crank and oil jets are removed. Wooden handle on a mallet will do the job.

Nope, I tried before I posted the question. The castings where the main bearings are situated are too wide to allow the pistons to pass through

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On 5/1/2018 at 6:05 PM, Bowie69 said:

Handle of a hammer from underneath...

I did not have a spare hammer handle, but found a suitable piece of Meranti wood. A fine specimen indeed, but 'twas all I could find.

The dimensions of the wood was such that it managed to fit between the con-rod and the piston skirt, and right up against the gudgeon pin .

As Charles Bronson exclaimed in "Villa Rides" after he shot 7 convicts with one bullet : "It works !"

 

 

 

 

 

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19 hours ago, Daan said:

The crank probably will need attention to the main bearings and main journals at this mileage; it is probably worth trying to find a good used one?

 

Daan

So far the crank looks surprisingly good. I have not measured any journals, but a quick look showed no visible damage, in fact they look pretty new

But the micrometer will do the talking this coming week-end

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on my 200tdi rebuild after 24 years & 379,000 miles my crank only need a 10thou regrind just to clean up some minor scores on number 1 big end, all the rest were good.

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2 hours ago, Sabre said:

I did not have a spare hammer handle, but found a suitable piece of Meranti wood. A fine specimen indeed, but 'twas all I could find.

The dimensions of the wood was such that it managed to fit between the con-rod and the piston skirt, and right up against the gudgeon pin .

As Charles Bronson exclaimed in "Villa Rides" after he shot 7 convicts with one bullet : "It works !"

 

 

 

 

 

Erm, if you turn a hammer upside down, you have a hammer handle ;)

Guess the meranti worked, nice dense wood :)

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So, the wear in the cylinders are rather bad, not boring clean at 20 thou.

I do not want to go to 40 thou, so I am opting for a re-sleeve, and going back to standard size pistons

The new sleeves I got are Britpart. My parts supplier assures me that Britpart and Bearmach sleeves are the same. Can anyone confirm ? Should I trust Britpart sleeves ?

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I wouldn't.  They might be fine, but so much of their stuff is bad that I would never chance it on something that is going to cost so much time and money to rectify if they're made of toffee.  Yes, you could measure them for accurate dimensions, but you just won't know about the materials quality or whether they'll retain their dimensions when they get hot in use.

There is nothing wrong with going +40 thou.  LR specified it, and Kolben Schmidt (and AE Heppolite) make genuine pistons to that spec.  At least you'll know all the parts are good.

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Your crank looks like mine when the oil pump failed in ZA in 2011. I hink I'd done about 100,000 miles. Fitted a new oil pump and it's still running. Looking back I now wonder if the oil pump had failed before I bought it and the previous owners just fitted a new pump. Will a S?H one be any better ? Don't think of looking at the new price for a crank shaft

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As per the Haynes manual, I decided to replace the big-end bearing bolts.

Removing the old bolts needed a few sharp taps with my copper hammer before they came out. But, fitting the new bolts is nearly impossible. The first approx two thirds of the bolt length would go through the bolt hole, and then get progressively more difficult till it refuses to go any further. Even with lots of persuasion from the copper hammer, I could not get one of the bolt heads to reach the bolt landing

I put one of the con rods in the oven and took it out when I needed welding gloves to handle it, but the heat made virtually no difference

Does anyone know the trick to get the new con rod bolts fitted  ? And, how does one know if the splines on the bolts align with the bearing cup splines ?

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I would use a press.  There is no mention of replacing the bolts in the genuine manual.  Just the nuts.

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4 hours ago, Red90 said:

I would use a press.  There is no mention of replacing the bolts in the genuine manual.  Just the nuts.

Aaah, that makes sense. I do have new nuts (for the bolts 😊) I will just use the old bolts

Thanks Red90

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