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300TDi overhaul


Sabre

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19 hours ago, vulcan bomber said:

Pistons can go out the bottom if the crank and oil jets are removed. Wooden handle on a mallet will do the job.

Nope, I tried before I posted the question. The castings where the main bearings are situated are too wide to allow the pistons to pass through

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On 5/1/2018 at 6:05 PM, Bowie69 said:

Handle of a hammer from underneath...

I did not have a spare hammer handle, but found a suitable piece of Meranti wood. A fine specimen indeed, but 'twas all I could find.

The dimensions of the wood was such that it managed to fit between the con-rod and the piston skirt, and right up against the gudgeon pin .

As Charles Bronson exclaimed in "Villa Rides" after he shot 7 convicts with one bullet : "It works !"

 

 

 

 

 

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19 hours ago, Daan said:

The crank probably will need attention to the main bearings and main journals at this mileage; it is probably worth trying to find a good used one?

 

Daan

So far the crank looks surprisingly good. I have not measured any journals, but a quick look showed no visible damage, in fact they look pretty new

But the micrometer will do the talking this coming week-end

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2 hours ago, Sabre said:

I did not have a spare hammer handle, but found a suitable piece of Meranti wood. A fine specimen indeed, but 'twas all I could find.

The dimensions of the wood was such that it managed to fit between the con-rod and the piston skirt, and right up against the gudgeon pin .

As Charles Bronson exclaimed in "Villa Rides" after he shot 7 convicts with one bullet : "It works !"

 

 

 

 

 

Erm, if you turn a hammer upside down, you have a hammer handle ;)

Guess the meranti worked, nice dense wood :)

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  • 1 month later...

So, the wear in the cylinders are rather bad, not boring clean at 20 thou.

I do not want to go to 40 thou, so I am opting for a re-sleeve, and going back to standard size pistons

The new sleeves I got are Britpart. My parts supplier assures me that Britpart and Bearmach sleeves are the same. Can anyone confirm ? Should I trust Britpart sleeves ?

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I wouldn't.  They might be fine, but so much of their stuff is bad that I would never chance it on something that is going to cost so much time and money to rectify if they're made of toffee.  Yes, you could measure them for accurate dimensions, but you just won't know about the materials quality or whether they'll retain their dimensions when they get hot in use.

There is nothing wrong with going +40 thou.  LR specified it, and Kolben Schmidt (and AE Heppolite) make genuine pistons to that spec.  At least you'll know all the parts are good.

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Your crank looks like mine when the oil pump failed in ZA in 2011. I hink I'd done about 100,000 miles. Fitted a new oil pump and it's still running. Looking back I now wonder if the oil pump had failed before I bought it and the previous owners just fitted a new pump. Will a S?H one be any better ? Don't think of looking at the new price for a crank shaft

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  • 4 months later...

As per the Haynes manual, I decided to replace the big-end bearing bolts.

Removing the old bolts needed a few sharp taps with my copper hammer before they came out. But, fitting the new bolts is nearly impossible. The first approx two thirds of the bolt length would go through the bolt hole, and then get progressively more difficult till it refuses to go any further. Even with lots of persuasion from the copper hammer, I could not get one of the bolt heads to reach the bolt landing

I put one of the con rods in the oven and took it out when I needed welding gloves to handle it, but the heat made virtually no difference

Does anyone know the trick to get the new con rod bolts fitted  ? And, how does one know if the splines on the bolts align with the bearing cup splines ?

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4 hours ago, Red90 said:

I would use a press.  There is no mention of replacing the bolts in the genuine manual.  Just the nuts.

Aaah, that makes sense. I do have new nuts (for the bolts 😊) I will just use the old bolts

Thanks Red90

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  • 1 month later...

With the engine on an engine stand, how does one fit the the rear oil seal, flywheel, clutch etc. ? I presume you need to put the engine on a workbench/floor ? Can the sump take the weight of the engine, without buckling ?

 

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The sump can take the weight but you need to prop it at the front with some lengths of wood to stop it falling forwards. This is most important. I didn’t bother once, as I was just shifting it around during a tidy up - it fell forwards and impacted on the crank pulley which believe it or not, bent the crank! 

Luckily I had three other spare engines but I hadn’t realised any damage had occurred until I refitted the engine and wondered why the fan belt was making a rather peculiar noise caused by the deflection on the crank pulley.

  • Thanks 1
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3 hours ago, oneandtwo said:

The sump can take the weight but you need to prop it at the front with some lengths of wood to stop it falling forwards. This is most important. I didn’t bother once, as I was just shifting it around during a tidy up - it fell forwards and impacted on the crank pulley which believe it or not, bent the crank! 

Luckily I had three other spare engines but I hadn’t realised any damage had occurred until I refitted the engine and wondered why the fan belt was making a rather peculiar noise caused by the deflection on the crank pulley.

Valuable info, 1&2, thank you. You lesson was not in vain, it will help me not to suffer the same fate 😥

Much appreciated

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  • 5 months later...
10 hours ago, western said:

Not sure if I should thank you for this; it looks like a site where I can spend more money than planned....... 😁

Thanks, I did not know about them. 👍

  • Haha 1
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  • 1 month later...

Next question : Should the flywheel bolts get a locking compound before they are fitted ? The ones I took out definitely had locking compound applied. The Haynes manual also mentions that the bolts have a locking compound, and will be difficult to loosen

But, neither the Haynes, nor the Rave manuals specified a locking compound when fitting the bolts

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