Dave64 Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 Hi Guys, Another question for you. I'm sure I have read somewhere on this site about how to "re-clock" a turbocharger on a TDI 200 engine, just can't seem to find the right sub-section. Looking at this project I have started, two questions came to me. I'm sure that quite a few of you blokes have retrofitted these engines into other earlier Land Rovers. Because of engine bay restrictions, I have plenty of height but am somewhat restricted in the width of the engine bay. Easiest way around it looks like instead of trying to source another set of manifolds,(i.e. same engine from a Discovery), is to turn the alloy section of the turbo so it is pointing straight up in the air. This would mean that I would have to forego the intercooler, unless I can mount it under the radiator, which is not the ideal place for it. It wouldn't be too difficult to plumb a short pipe from the OUTLET of the turbo direct into the inlet manifolds, something that I have read your fellows doing. I realise I may have to get the injector pump tweaked to compensate, but how much H.P am I going to lose and would it be all that critical? Have also read that blokes who have done a similar conversion have successfully ran their vehicles as a straight 200 turbo, MINUS that intercooler. If anyone who has done it could reply , especially if you could post a few photo's, would give me a better idea. If I can leave the oil pick up and discharge lines where they are by clocking the turbo as stated above, there is a small 1/8" line, which runs from the vacuum pump around the front of the engine, down behind the alternator and into the waste gate actuator or whatever it's correct name is. The actuator would obviously have to also be clocked accordingly, looks easy enough, just drill and retap the bolt holes in the correct position if that's the way to do it. The line that goes into the turbo housing could have a right angle fitting, guessing it's probably BSP or NPT, whatever, and bought out to join the existing 'tee' fitting. Again, if that's the way to do it, just about leave everything in it's original position EXCEPT the alloy outlet from the turbo instead of feeding the intercooler, would now feed the inlet manifold?? Would have to re-route the fresh air inlet into the turbo anyway, even though the outlet has moved, the inlets still in the same place. On the exhaust side of the turbo, had to turf the original cast iron outlet at the flange as it wouldn't clear the bellhousing mounting brackets. Think the original was 2&1/4", found a triangular flange and welded a 2&1/2" elbow so it drops straight down at 90 degrees and clears everything. Plenty of room underneath also, so kicking around the idea of either cutting and joining the original R/R exhaust system or just simply go up to a 3" straight pipe and muffler. Being a turbocharged engine, I've always found that the better the exhaust breathing becomes (within reason), the easier on the turbo. Just like to point out that this isn't a R/R to L/R conversion, but a one-off project. Now I have the front engine mounts and brackets sorted, time to start looking at other problems I have created for myself! Be interested on others comments, Thanks, Dave64 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 I haven't clocked mine, but I do run straight from the turbo outlet to the manifold inlet, no intercooler. It's been that way best part of 10 years, and I can't say it's ever made any difference or done it any harm at any rate. That returns almost 40mpg on a run, so I'm not arguing. Fitting the intercooler probably would give me a touch more, but nearly 40 is still nearly 40 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave64 Posted November 27, 2017 Author Share Posted November 27, 2017 ejparrott, Thanks, you had it for 10 years and it's still performing well? Good enough for me, but one question, did you have to get the injector pump recalibrated? Or just left it alone? Dave64 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 just leave it as it is, its will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave64 Posted November 27, 2017 Author Share Posted November 27, 2017 Thanks, now all I need is if someone can direct me to the details on how to rotate the turbo housing. Dave64 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 Loose it and turn it. Exhaust side is four bolts. Intake side is a big circlip. Same as every other turbo. If it is not clear, Google it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave64 Posted November 28, 2017 Author Share Posted November 28, 2017 That doesn't really help me much. Not everybody's switched on when it comes to searches. I've just spent over an hour as you suggested, tried many different ways of using search words which I thought would be relevant and all I got was page upon page upon page of advertisements. I had hoped that someone may have written about this and it was hidden somewhere on the forum, if someone posts a link, I know how to click onto it because it comes up in red. And that's about my lot for computerese, it may as well be in Swahili. Dave64 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 lots of video's on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6gy0wBPW47k it's not LR specific but it's not a major difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 (edited) When approaching something like this, have a think about what you're doing, and how the object in question might be described. So you might search for "200 tdi turbo clocking". Which you no doubt have and haven't had any useful results. You can draw a few conclusions from the this: nobody has written about clocking a 200 turbo specifically , "clocking" is the wrong term for what you're trying to achieve, or its fairly obvious how to do it, and nobody bothered to write it up. The first scenario is easy to deal with: it's a turbo. Nothing special about it. What kind of turbo? The answer is a quick Google away, and if memory serves, it's a variety of Garret T2. Ah ha. So you could search for "garrett T2 clocking". But maybe that doesn't yield anything helpful either? Well OK. Is there another term than clocking that people use? Or is there a more generic operation that people use that encompasses that? "disassembly"! So search for "T2 turbo disassembly". Bingo, you've probably got a YouTube or forum post with all the info you need. If not, try "rebuild" instead of disassembly. And so on. Google-Fu is less a problem of computer knowledge and more of iterative and lateral thinking. Start specific; broaden. Use the results to refine your search to match how people on t'internets actually describe the objects and actions you're interested in. Hope that helps, anyway! No black magic to it, just knowing how to play the game Edited November 28, 2017 by lo-fi Spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 Glencoyne has a how-to on their site: http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/tdiguid2.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave64 Posted November 28, 2017 Author Share Posted November 28, 2017 Guys! Great stuff, exactly what I am looking for! AND, makes it so much easier for me who is a complete dumbass when it comes to computers, to my mind a link, or several of them as above, why even I can follow that! lo-fi, thanks for the tips re Google, trouble is I hate it with a passion and not knowing how to circumvent all those unwanted and unrelated ads drives me to despair, so much that I want to kick the tripe out of the laptop! But, really appreciated fellows! Cheers, Dave64 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave64 Posted November 29, 2017 Author Share Posted November 29, 2017 Just had a bit of a look at a couple of youtube videos on reclocking the turbo, one of them a bloke doing it in the car, still on the engine. Was thinking that rather than disturb the oil inlet/outlet or the inlet/outlet on the compressor side, can't I just loosen the bolts as seen in the video and turn the inlet housing? OR, does the whole shooting match hang together with this large circlip as explained in the text? Thought also that rather than re-tap the bolt holes for the actuator, make up an extended bracket out of 1-2mm steel plate, only has to move about a third of a rotation. Turbo has probably never been removed since ex-factory and about the last thing I need is to snap or jigger the threads of the compressor to exhaust manifold bolts. I do have a gas axe here (oxy set) so maybe a bit of gentle heat wouldn't hurt if I do have to remove it completely, but don't want to really do so unless I really have to. Dave64 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 For the compressor side, you need to remove the circlip. Keep in mind that at 25 years in age, it won't want to move easily..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave64 Posted November 29, 2017 Author Share Posted November 29, 2017 Red90, Yes, so I found out! Had a tinker with it today, got various size circlip pliers, angles etc. Couldn't really get a good purchase on it as the chassis rail is in the way. Went around to a mates place looking for a larger pair of angled pliers, which he didn't have anyway. He reckons that way back when he done his apprenticeship, bloke he worked with either bought or made up a "circlip removal tool", which if I have this right, was two blocks of steel, one threaded the other not with a bolt in it and a handle to hold it steady. This one the bloke mentioned had varying pin sizes that you could swap in and out, again secured with a thumb screw. Specially designed for compessing/expanding hard to get at circlips. It's a newy on me, but I thought what a great idea. Reckons you could get different size tools for larger circlips. No-one around here other than this bloke had ever heard of them, however. All advocated removing the turbo and sitting it on the bench so you could at least get at, or pre-mark where you want the outlet pointing at and take it to someone with a decent workshop. Dave64 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 You need large angled head snap ring pliers or you can grind the tips on a set of large angled needlenose pliers. It is easier on the bench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave64 Posted November 29, 2017 Author Share Posted November 29, 2017 Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave64 Posted November 29, 2017 Author Share Posted November 29, 2017 Bloke on another forum sent me this, didn't know it's exact name, but we'll call it simply a circlip removal tool. Reckons that Snap-On tools carry them but hellaciously expensive for a one-off job Dave64 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 Cheap pair of angled pliers, add grinder, make your own Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave64 Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 Yeah, bit the bullet and took the turbo off altogether. Borrowed a big set of angle jawed circlip pliers, couldn't budge it so left it to soak overnight with a bit of WD40. Seems to be a heck of a lot of tension on it, maybe been there so long it's moulded itself to the housing. What's the go with the circlip anyhow, looks like it has to be removed from the groove altogether and can sit in the middle of the unit. If I can get the circlip out, will the two halves then turn without trouble, or do you split the two cases (once marked where I want it)? Thanks again, Dave64 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 Yes once removed it will rotate. Stick a screw driver in the end of the clip and tap with a hammer to break any corrosion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave64 Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 Bowie69, Thanks for that, will let it soak for a while before giving it a tap with a punch and hammer. Dave64 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted December 2, 2017 Share Posted December 2, 2017 On 27/11/2017 at 1:02 PM, Dave64 said: ejparrott, Thanks, you had it for 10 years and it's still performing well? Good enough for me, but one question, did you have to get the injector pump recalibrated? Or just left it alone? Dave64 Nope, just left it alone. Get me almost to 40mpg on our long holiday drives, I'm not going to worry about it at that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave64 Posted December 3, 2017 Author Share Posted December 3, 2017 11 hours ago, ejparrott said: Nope, just left it alone. Get me almost to 40mpg on our long holiday drives, I'm not going to worry about it at that ejparrott, Thanks for that, currently have the turbo off, have to re-clock it and am going to bypass the intercooler altogether and do the same as quite a few blokes have done and rework the plumbing from the turbo outlet straight to the inlet manifold, seen a few photos where it was simply routed either over or around the alternator, still looked tidy. Cheers, Dave64 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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