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LR Security Again


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I appreciate that this subject is well covered ground, but is very important given all of the things I keep reading on here and else where about Defenders getting stolen has made me want to increase the security of my 110 to make the chances of me keeping my 110 in the event of some scum trying to take it.

From searching through this forum I have come to the following conclusions:

  • Trying to increase the secruity of the doors/trying to prevent entry to your LR is not the best use of your money as extra/upgraded locks are easy to get round and may give the impression that you have something inside worth nicking. (I never keep anything inside my 110 for this reason)
  • Security items that you have to remove and put back on aren't ideal as they are a pain for you when you want to actually use your LR and the one time you forget/can't be bothered to put the device on is the time someone comes along and drives it off.
  • X-Eng stuff seems to be highly recommended by a number of people on here, @jeremy996 posted a picture of the X-Eng pedal lock preventing the theft of his LR.
  • Multiple devices are the way forward to really slow would be theives down and make them give up.

So with all of the above in mind I think a good starting point for a budget of around £250 would be the X-Eng pedal lock, X-Eng stearing column lock and key opperated battery isolator. Any one have any comments/suggstions please?

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Good point, I always try to do this at night but when I go to work in my company car and my wife goes to work in her car my LR security has to fight on its own!

I like the look of the gear stick lock for overnight or parking up for a few hours. As you say, nice and visable.

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13 hours ago, monkie said:

For wave 1, what do you think of my suggestions of the sterring lock, pedal lock and battery isolator?

Works for me!

At the end of the day, if someone really wants your truck, they'll take it, be it a HIAB or knife in the face for the keys. Its inanimate and should be insured, so let it go!

All you need to do is make it less attractive/less easy to steal than the other one the thieves can get at.

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Thanks for the reply. That's too true unfortunately about violence being used, I really wish these violent types of people the very worst in life.:angry2:

I'm more worried about leaving it at night particularly if I have to stay away in more unsavoury areas. I was particularly impressed by your picture of the pedal lock survining an attempted attack.

I've gone over budget but now have a better battery isolator and then the steering column lock, pedal lock and the gear stick lock from X-Eng. I liked the suggestion of the gearstick lock as it is nice and visable and hopefully act as a deterrant.

Once I have my drive back when the extension is up I'm going to get the builder to put in that centinal post in my drive then hopefully that that lot should really slow any attempt to steal it.

Thanks for the input.

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At least these are practical money spent, rather than simply being shiny bling that others are offering.

My only concern is how much torque can be transferred through the 3 pins of the tool used for the door pillar screws :blink:

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Your quite wright £500 is a hell of a lot for a set of hinges  but no more than optimill or some of the other billet hinges , and I wouldn't say they would be top of my shopping list . I liked the fact that rather than turning out another set of blingy hinges someone had actually thought about the security issue , how good they are is another matter only time will tell when some scroat tries to pinch the doors of a vehicle that has them fitted . The guard plates are a cheap practical idea which I like that would stop a lot of the thieves ,  but there's still a simple way round them .

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I think there are simple ways round most devices if you are a "professional" thief who knows what to do, its just a case of slowing them down. What I like most about those plates is they are reasonable priced, they don't look out of place (personally I hate bling, alloys, chequer plate etc - that's an argument for another day!) and they also will take the theif by surprise as thy are not visable so it should slow them down increasing the chance they give up if they are just being opportunistic.

I'm probably just being tight but if I had won millions on the lottery I still wouldn't be convinced to spend £500 on LR door hinges:wacko:

 

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On ‎2017‎-‎12‎-‎04 at 8:00 AM, mickeyw said:

At least these are practical money spent, rather than simply being shiny bling that others are offering.

My only concern is how much torque can be transferred through the 3 pins of the tool used for the door pillar screws :blink:

The bulkhead bolts are bolts what you see is a security cap. - is my interpretation of the listing. I've got to say I rather like the look of those.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Any tips for fitting the battery isolator? I don't have anything that I am bothered about in terms of needing to be continuously connected. I was thinking of breaking the earth to the battery. Also were would be the best place to fit it so it is out of the way?

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If you bridge the battery isolator with a small (5-10A) fuse you won't lose your radio settings etc. but if anyone tries to start it, it'll just die.

A lot of people fit the isolator in the battery box with the key sticking out through the side of the seat box. Not sure if there's anywhere more convenient / more secure.

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7 hours ago, monkie said:

Any tips for fitting the battery isolator? I don't have anything that I am bothered about in terms of needing to be continuously connected. I was thinking of breaking the earth to the battery. Also were would be the best place to fit it so it is out of the way?

You can still run things off the battery with an isolation switch. Just have to run direct connections to the battery. Or to the live part of the switch.

As for my security, x defence flip up pedal lock, removable steering wheel, boss lock, ignition switch, main power switch, fuel line solenoid (200tdi engine so no fuel pump motor), alarm and immobilizer and lastly a tracker. 

All wings and doors fitted using a mix of torx and hex.

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Just be aware that you can bypass the 'normal' red handled isolator keys with nothing more complex than a twig cut from a nearby hedge. They are an excellent safety device and are worth fitting just for that reason .. but security... nah!

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Thanks for the replies. I'm going for the security approach of adding in layers to slow someone down. I had thought that it would be easy to bypass if located in the batterybox, which is why I asked if there are any other ideas on where to locate.

So with this in mind I have two ideas:

1- Fit the switch on the bulkhead below the dash on the passenger side and break the positive feed to the starter motor.

2- Fit the switch in the battery box (I prefer to break the earth to the negative battery terminal rather than the positive terminal for safety) but fix a steel box round the switch terminals to block access to bypassing the terminals with a conductive twig from a nearby hedge.

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