RRC rear prop shaft removal query..

[miggit]

So the question is can you remove the prop shaft from just the transfer box end, or, do you have to remove the diff end first?

I only ask because, when I tried to get into the handbrake to clean it / inspection, the prop wouldn't budge, in fact to be honest it jammed up against the drum. Now my RRC has a 2" lift on the springs and has cranked rear arms... I'm wondering if they aren't a little bit short, as the sliding yoke part of the prop is closed up tight. In all my years of working on cars the prop has always moved at least 10mm from the flange when released, hence the query!

[Tanis8472]

Surely A lift should make the prop shaft too short. 

 

 

[miggit]

That is my thinking, but I wasn't part of the conversion so I wouldn't know what was recommended.. I just get the feeling that the slip yoke shouldn't be jammed up hard and there should be a little movement... After all we are talking normal ride height not wheels off the ground!

I do have the old centres from the rear radius arm bushes, which make washers that are ¹/₄" thick, and was thinking about introducing them as spacers of the arms... just to push the axle back a bit and take the pressure off the prop, but just a bit hesitant as the radius poly bushes are in multiple bits and a real pain to fit, and not knowing if there should be any play in the yoke to start with!

Hence the questions!

Edited December 3, 2017 by miggit

[Shackleton]

Know this may be way too late and I've edited because it's been so long since I dropped a prop I don't remember if I had to remove the trailing end first or not. The 2" lift makes no difference I can say that for sure, the cranked arms I don't know. 

There's a lip on the mating surface of the UJ flange [on the earlier cars at least, and at the rear end] that locates it on the diff nose so even with the bolts out it has to be pulled backwards a little to release, so can't be just slid out.

Hope that's of some use.

Edited December 17, 2017 by Shackleton

[miggit]

After some help in another section, I have worked out that the aftermarket cranked rear arms are too short  So when the weather is slightly more favourable to laying around on concrete, I will be adding some shims to the arms to move the axle away from the gearbox and realign the diff nose, which is pointing up at the moment..... So the moral is... if your diff is a little snotty and sticking it's nose up, give it a wedgie

And FYI droop causes shrinkage of your shaft 

[Shackleton]

Ha , yeah realised I was having a moment all round.