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Sharp

Help - my webasto is not firing up

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I got it a while back as a refurbished unit but for various reasons I've not managed to fit it yes. i set it up for testing and can't see where I'm going wrong, it's hooked up to a strong battery and connected as per the instructions. I've never usedd one before so I'm not sure what it's meant to do, the first time I fire it up after a rest it buzzez for a bit then the pump kicks in, gets faster, coughs a bit, makes some horrible noises and then dies. After that it runs horribly rough and never seems to spark. I've uploaded a couple of videos of it if anyone is feeling charitable and offering some advice that would be much apreciated

https://youtu.be/XIAt_H2GgQw
https://youtu.be/69_7lSl4LP4

 

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I suspect it is going into thermal overheat shutdown as there isn't sufficient water flowing round it.

Didn't watch the videos all the way through, but the 2nd one has the tell tale noises of an air locked water pump.

 

The water pump isn't self priming, so it won't suck the water up from the bucket. Ideally you need a top and bottom bucket or at least have the bucket above the Wabasto. Easiest way to prime, is have the bucket higher, then pour water into both hoses holding them above the Wabasto and them quickly plunge both hoses at the same time into the bucket.

Make sure you have a good 12v supply, any drop below 11.6v will trip it out.

If it has gone into lockout, you will need to follow the procedure below. Its a bit of a faff, and I use 2 switches in the permanent and switched 12v supply to make it easier rather than pulling fuses.

Heater Lockout Reset Procedure

The TTC is designed with a lockout safety feature built in to the control unit. After 3 consecutive unsuccessful startup attempts, the heater will lock itself out from any further start attempts. The heater may also enter the lockout mode after experiencing an overheat condition.

The following procedure will clear the lockout mode and reset the heater for normal operation:

1. Remove fuse F1 (15 Amp), refer to wiring diagram figure 411 for identification. Wait 10 seconds before reinserting. This is done to prepare the control unit for resetting.

2. Wait a further 10 seconds after reinserting fuse F1. Now turn the heater on using the On/Off switch or the fiinstan onf button of the optional timer.

3. Wait 10 seconds after turning the heater on and remove fuse F1 again.

4. Wait a further 30 seconds and then turn the heater off at the switch or optional timer.

5. Reinsert fuse F1 after waiting 3 to 10 seconds of shutting off the heater.

6. Wait a further 10 seconds and turn the heater back on again. The lockout mode should now be cancelled and the heater operating normally.

Edited by simonb

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Thanks so much Simon, that's really helpful. I had no idea about the water pump, I pre-filled the diesel pipe but didn't think about the water.

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Looks like running it dry has killed it, water dripping out of the exhaust pipe from the pump when I fill the pipes and I'm guessing that's not normal!

Didn't seem to want to start fully yesterday anyway although I did get some spluttering from the water pump it never fully kicked into action and then it shut down. I'd noticed the water out of the exhuast yesterday but paying a little bit more attention today it was literally a case of watching the water level go down in the pipes while it exited through the exhaust before I'd even pressed the on button. Anyway, not going to get another chance to do anything with it now till after Christmas, wish I'd never bought the bloody thing!

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The water pump can't work like that.  The pump needs to be purged air free to pump.  The webasto needs to be lower than the water level at all times.  They will not pump air.

I doubt you hurt anything.  Water from the exhaust is normal.

It would not hurt to read the instructions.

Edited by Red90

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The water bucket is about a foot higher than the heater. Can you confirm what you mean about water coming out of the exhaust. I hold the pipes up, fill them with water and then before turning the heater on the water drains down the pipes and out of the exhaust - is that really normal?

The only instructions I could find were the installation ones translated from german for fitting into the TD5, I couldn't find any others.

Edited by Sharp

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The only way water can get from the water pipes and out of the exhaust, is if there is a crack inside the main casing, normally the water chamber and hot gas chamber are completely separate. To split the casing suggests frost damage, the unit will shut down to prevent thermal overheat and you would have to get it very hot to crack the aluminium with heat.

Keep it simple, disconnect all hoses and electrics. Shove an old cork from a wine bottle in one of the water stubs, stand the unit on end and fill up with water. It should retain the water. If water still comes out of the exhaust, the casting must be cracked. Don't chuck it away however, its still worth a lot as parts - main circuit board, pump, fan, burner unit. Stick it on ebay and some one will have it off you for - just look at how much a burner or pump is.

 

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1 hour ago, Sharp said:

The water bucket is about a foot higher than the heater. Can you confirm what you mean about water coming out of the exhaust. I hold the pipes up, fill them with water and then before turning the heater on the water drains down the pipes and out of the exhaust - is that really normal?

The only instructions I could find were the installation ones translated from german for fitting into the TD5, I couldn't find any others.

Huh??  The videos show the water bucket on the ground and the heater a couple of feet above it.  The water bucket needs to be above the heater.

Take a picture of where the hoses are connected.  Maybe you have the water hooked to the air inlet.  I also can't tell if you unit has a pump on it.

Manual: https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/Webasto_Heater_Thermo_Top_C_Workshop_Manual_(2).pdf

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Thanks Simon, I'll dismantle it at some point and see if I can see where the damage is but looks like it'll end up on ebay then. It has been cold in the workshop so possibly it could have frozen at some point.

Thanks Red, those videos are from last week though.

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The manual links Red90 posted, show which are the coolant, air inlet and exhaust ports - just in case you have a hose on the wrong stub...:blush:

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Cheers for everyone's help. I've now sent it back to the supplier for testing.

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