Heater or lack there of (that old chestnut)

[bushwhacker]

Hi. Has anyone been able to fab/fit in a heater blower to replace the defender one that is expensive to replace. Does the def one come apart.

Would the bilge blower talked about on here do as a replacement ?

Any help would be appreciated.

[simonb]

You have a PM....

[Ex Member]

They are not very expensive.  https://www.lrdirect.com/RTC4200-Heater-Motor-and-Rotor-S390-110-To/  

 

 

[DC_]

Is it the fan/blower that’s not working or the fact you don’t have heat? 

 

My 110 blower works great (said it now), I’ve put a winter blanket/ leather cover on the grill to stop the cold air getting to the rad, the difference in heat coming out the fan is well worth it. 😊👍🔥

[landroversforever]

The defender fan shifts a lot of air. So if its not putting out much then theres a leak in the system. I know when I stripped my truck down the heater to bulkhead seal was knackered. They'll also not blow much if the heater cables aren't adjusted right. The latter also applies to heat if the engine is getting hot enough but no hot air.

 

[landroversforever]

4 hours ago, DC_ said:

Is it the fan/blower that’s not working or the fact you don’t have heat? 

 

My 110 blower works great (said it now), I’ve put a winter blanket/ leather cover on the grill to stop the cold air getting to the rad, the difference in heat coming out the fan is well worth it. 😊👍🔥

You say you've blocked the rad... have you got a decent thermostat in there? I know you're up in Scotland with the associated colder weather but my 200tdi used to warm up in a few miles even when it was -7/-8C.

[DC_]

 

2 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

You say you've blocked the rad... have you got a decent thermostat in there? I know you're up in Scotland with the associated colder weather but my 200tdi used to warm up in a few miles even when it was -7/-8C.

Thermostat replaced in June. 2.5 n/a diesel. Warms up (Luke warm) without blanket but with the blanket on in about zero degrees, it’s better. If it’s not too cold +2, I don’t have it down. 👍 can’t always check the Thermo I guess just to make sure. 

[landroversforever]

Make sure the stat is a decent branded one then. Colleague had given up with his until I got him a Waxstat one (I think via allmakes) and it was perfect after that up to temperature in no time at all.

 

[bushwhacker]

Thanks for all the replies. I'll check all the pointers.

Very much appreciated

[FridgeFreezer]

I know Miketomcat actually un-seized a Defender heater blower that was solid due to mud but that's a rare case and he's special like that.

If you're getting power to the fan and air blowing out in reasonable volume then a lack of heat is either flap adjustment, crudded up heater core or lack of hot water from the engine.

Or the universe telling you to buy an Eberspacher... mmmm... Eberspaaaaacher

[bushwhacker]

28 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Or the universe telling you to buy an Eberspacher... mmmm... Eberspaaaaacher

My mate's 300tdi has a heater that would melt you and bog standard for by!

[western]

If Sir would care to search the Defender forum for 'feeling cold in your truck' or our vast tech archive for 'defender heater checks' he will find my post on how to adjust the control cables on the heater controls/air flaps, the Sir will be toasty warm. 

also make sure the new stat is a 88 degree version.

[Paddy]

I agree with the consensus, my 1991 2.5 truck chucks out more than enough heat.  Do the checks above and you’ll be roasty toasty once the engines warms up.

[bushwhacker]

Yea, seen your write up western and I will definitely be using it to set up the levers and flaps on the heater.

[DC_]

Looking at thermostats, the parts list a 82 degree or a 74 degree. 🎅

[DC_]

[Mo Murphy]

Is it only me that sniggers behind my hand whenever I see their name 😁 

Mo

[Howitzer]

Does anyone have the part numbers to the small clamps which grip the cables at the heater box end? Mine just fell apart and the right ones would be nice before I adjust the flaps.

Dave!

[western]

try 13H7343L for the cable spring retaining clips

http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/229999/0/heater_cable_to_levers_clip_defender___series_111

[bushwhacker]

10 hours ago, Mo Murphy said:

Is it only me that sniggers behind my hand whenever I see their name 😁 

Mo

I never thought about it before but now you mention it I'll have a chuckle  along with you. 😂

Have a good what ever you do at this time of the year to everyine.. 😎

[Snagger]

18 hours ago, DC_ said:

Looking at thermostats, the parts list a 82 degree or a 74 degree. 🎅

That'll be for Series vehicles, not Tdis

[western]

74 & 82 were also used on the olderdisel engines. but all Tdi should have the 88 degree stat fitted.

[Tanuki]

10 minutes ago, western said:

74 & 82 were also used on the olderdisel engines. but all Tdi should have the 88 degree stat fitted.

 

Or hotter:  engine efficiency improves with increasing heat: if your radiator pressure-cap is working correctly and you're running at least 33% glycol in your coolant (which raises the boiling-point significantly above the usual 100 degrees)  there are definite benefits from a bulk-coolant temperature in the 95-105 Centigrade range.

Same goes for oil temperature: in my last job I was involved in provisioning big [think 500-Kilowatt] Diesels to power Internet data-centres if there was a power outage. Mr. Caterpillar was quite happy for the bulk oil temperature to run at 130 Centigrade with the engine being loaded to 85% of its rated output.

They ran for 5000 hours between oil-changes. That's half a year of near-wide-open-throttle.

Hot engines are healthy engines.

[DC_]

3 hours ago, Snagger said:

That'll be for Series vehicles, not Tdis

I don’t have a TDI 

[Ex Member]

1 minute ago, DC_ said:

I don’t have a TDI 

This is not your thread....