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Chassis treatment post repair


discomikey

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Hi all.. 

I just asked this question on a carefully chosen LR FB page.. trying to avoid the kneejerk reaction answer of Buzzweld, even stating that I do not want that coating (without slagging the company off) 

Knew I should have asked here  (a sensible place)..

 

So do any of you guys know of a decent hard wearing chassis black paint. One that can be applied to a slightly crusty chassis with a fairly decent prep.. I don'  expect it to last forever but more than 3 months would be ideal. 

 

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There’s a company called rust buster they do chassis paint don’t know if that’s any good to you

 http://www.rust.co.uk/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0ano8-PG2AIVqr_tCh1Q9Af5EAAYAyAAEgJNZfD_BwE 

but how much longer than 3 months do you need it to last as it could be expensive for a short term solution.

cheers Ian 

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I'm part way through renovated my trailer. The main chassis I've wax oiled every other year since I got it and if you scrub at it the original paint is still underneath. The steel frame that was supporting the rotten timber hasn't had the same attention and was looking a bit sorry for itself so I wire brushed it then gave it a coat of corroless primer for rusty metal (looked very much like the hammerite primer for rusty metal once it was on) and then a coat of the corroless glass filled chassis paint. Have to see how it's faired next time the wood is rotten :lol:

I also have a lot of time for rustolium combi-colour metal paint. I've splashed a thick coat of it on stuff before that I haven't been that bothered about without really knocking the rust off etc and it seems to give a smooth long lasting finish.

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I just used Rust Bullet after a recommendation from someone who puts so much effort into restorations I couldn't question his experience. Ok it's grey/silver and not what I'd call cheap but it takes an overcoat of a colour of choice well and it's specifically designed to seal over [they say 'dehydrate'] rust. From the parts I've had to grind or sand back for welding, it really seemed like good stuff. It will scrape if hit with something hard but - difficult as this is to articulate - it feels extremely durable when grinding through it. They insist on at least two coast, at least 4hrs apart. I'll be hitting it with something black after a key up and then some sort of underseal after that.

Turned out the agent here and his wife are LR people too. I got back to them to show my use and they said my application was fine. [I should stress I have no reason to plug them now and I have no experience of the paint in the field.]

chassis paint.jpg

Edited by Shackleton
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On 1/8/2018 at 1:18 PM, Cynic-al said:

I'm part way through renovated my trailer. The main chassis I've wax oiled every other year since I got it and if you scrub at it the original paint is still underneath. The steel frame that was supporting the rotten timber hasn't had the same attention and was looking a bit sorry for itself so I wire brushed it then gave it a coat of corroless primer for rusty metal (looked very much like the hammerite primer for rusty metal once it was on) and then a coat of the corroless glass filled chassis paint. etc and it seems to give a smooth long lasting finish.

 

I thought Corroless paints are what Buzzweld are repackaging in consumer-friendly quantities.

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I believe it' the same stuff in the tin. I bought it by the litre so didn't have to buy loads. It was very cold when I put it on and it was like painting with treacle but one coat did the job. I don' know what it would be like warmer but I could've thinned it to make it spread more. 

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Was your problem of it only lasting 3 months, durability? If so, you probably need to get a 2K paint, as these appear to be the hardest wearing and most resistant to chipping/off road damage. 2K epoxy’s like Upol’s Raptor appear to have really good bonding and cope with over painting existing paint. 

The only issue with 2K paints is that most contain isocyanates, apparently nasty stuff that’s not good to breathe in or absorb through your skin or eyes. ;)

 

 

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11 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

My suggestion of aerosol underseal was purely because it sounded like Mikey was looking to cover up some welding while selling the truck....  :) 

cover up..

How dare you :o:ph34r::lol:

This one isn't for sale its a repair for someone else. 

26735003_10154878416321222_1092510436_o.thumb.jpg.50b8befad643894e2c8586f5df70cf8d.jpg

on the plus side.. just for a larf... this is an 06 plate Mitsubushi Shogun Sport.. and they say Land Rover's rot! the other side needed the same and an additional 2 sections cutting out and pidgeoning in

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Not hide, cover up ;)

We've all done it, should last 12 if you lather it on :P

Nice work, and yes, I was under an 07 plate Hyundai the other day , welding up a rusty back axle/beam/suspension mount...  It is not only LR that rot.

The body was fine, it is galvanised, not so the suspension parts!

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Via various tests (Ford transit)  I have realised tiny microscopic pockets of rust are the problem. Rotary wire brush or shot-blast and then phosphoric acid like genolight.

then a few layers of paint on top of zinc primer. 

Then maybe waxoil ?

inside;    50/50 waxoil and new engine oil. Or if it is bad inside start with oil and waxoil next year. Because the rust can be layered on the inside and neat waxoil holds the damp in and doesn’t penetrate. 

 

So yeh, rust is really hard to stop, but if you transform it at a molecular level then it has no iron oxide crystals to give it a helping start :)

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