Shackleton Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 Both bolts sheared at the nut, they're both badly corroded and won't budge. I don't have an acetylene torch so I can't get enough heat into them. Big hammers and punches, my little butane/propane torch, cheapo penetrating fluid.... not surprising nothing's working for me. I'll break out a drill but it's such a long way across a chassis, twice Pretty sure the chassis isn't threaded for these bolts but am I imagining that they can be of tight enough tolerance that they need to be screwed in/out? Don't want waste energy wailing on them if they're threaded. I worked the bolts heads until there was nothing left and now I've ground off all protruding metal so that I'm not punching a head onto what's left. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 it's just a tube they slide through, not threaded, otherwise the bolts would be fully threaded too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 Yes, not threaded. Cut the lower section of tube out the chassis, and then smack the bolt out. If it it is that stuck then the tube will be scrapped or too weak to use as a mounting point anyways. Replace the stuff you cut out with a new piece of suitably sized pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 Thanks lads. Seriously thought of doing that with the pipe this arvo, just held back. It's prob the only option at this point. Have just seen talk of this 50:50 acetone/ATF mix idea and figure I might as well make up a batch. Have plenty of linkage bolts to free up for general maintenance anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 I tried drilling them out once, went a bit off angle and ended up poking the drill out the underside of the tube... so also not the best plan. Just slitting it open at the bottom and then welding it up again after getting the bolt out should do I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teabag Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 (edited) The early disco tow bar is the same item that was fitted to the RRc, the bolts go through the chassis which is braced in manufacturing by welding a metal tube through the chassis . http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=815874&SPRACHE=EN http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=815901&SPRACHE=EN Edited January 8, 2018 by teabag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 12 hours ago, Shackleton said: Have just seen talk of this 50:50 acetone/ATF mix I have never yet had any form, type, or mix of penetrating fluid do any good on these bolts. I have tried on an RRC (I cut them out and replaced them in the end), a Disco 1 (gave up and scrapped it before ever getting them out) and my current Disco 2 (going to take it to a local friendly garage for a bit of thermal help). IMHO oxy is the only guaranteed answer without cutting. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 1 hour ago, elbekko said: Just slitting it open at the bottom and then welding it up again after getting the bolt out should do I think. That's a nice halfway house Ben! Will do that first. 24 minutes ago, teabag said: The early disco tow bar is the same item that was fitted to the RRc Thanks teabag. Funny the whole reason I took it off in the first place is to fit a D2 NAS receiver setup. It fits if you extend the brace bars by even 10mm or so and use blots at the chassis rear cross member [need to be about 10mm longer also]. The NAS unit is much less obstructive both aesthetically and for departure angle yet is rated for 3500kg just the same. 48 minutes ago, ThreeSheds said: IMHO oxy is the only guaranteed answer without cutting. Good luck! I want one [an oxy setup]. Badly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 1 hour ago, Shackleton said: I want one [an oxy setup]. Badly. me too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 theyre not expensive.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 Really? Isn't like everything else, you get what you pay for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 up and to a point, for starters you dont need acetylene , a propane cylinder is very nearly as hot and much cheaper. the only thing you cant do with oxy propane is weld. ive used one of thses kits https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/162722947987?chn=ps&adgroupid=47842945425&rlsatarget=pla-380312389851&abcId=1129946&adtype=pla&merchantid=110365859&poi=&googleloc=1006597&device=t&campaignid=974959912&crdt=0&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-134428-41853-0%2F2%3Fmpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%252Fi%252F162722947987%253Fchn%253Dps%26itemid%3D162722947987%26targetid%3D380312389851%26device%3Dt%26adtype%3Dpla%26googleloc%3D1006597%26poi%3D%26campaignid%3D974959912%26adgroupid%3D47842945425%26rlsatarget%3Dpla-380312389851%26abcId%3D1129946%26merchantid%3D110365859%26gclid%3DEAIaIQobChMI5LWm9rbJ2AIViLftCh0pbQU4EAkYBCABEgJPv_D_BwE%26srcrot%3D710-134428-41853-0%26rvr_id%3D1411477787630 they're fine, lots of nozzle options etc. lacks a bit of adjustability, but again, doesnt matter if youre not welding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted January 9, 2018 Share Posted January 9, 2018 What you could try is what I use on seized suspension arm bolts on Disco 3/4 and RR Sport's. An air chisel with the end cut of as a blunt punch.With the cars I mentioned I use a short piece of rubber hose as a guide,works VERY well to literally jack hammer the bolts out of the bushes they rust into.No heat needed,just ear protection. I think Sykes Picavant have cottened on to how well it works and do a kit for it now,I've been using the method for years.First did it with an actual jack hammer to remove the lower pin on a Matbro materials handler,think it was a 2 1/2" dia pin... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted January 9, 2018 Author Share Posted January 9, 2018 13 hours ago, Ally V8 said: First did it with an actual jack hammer to remove the lower pin... that's deadly Ally. I would have loved that today. And great idea with the air chisel - there's a compressor to hand but I don't have air tools [yet]. Don't have a set for using cylinders of any sort of gas either qwakers, I'm still building up my arsenal Got both out today though thank fudge. It only took about three hours, on top of all the other attempts over the last few days. I used Ben's grinder suggestion. It took two zips on the O/S and three on the N/S, plus a lot of swinging a lump hammer at a substantial punch I borrowed from the Iranian mechanic next door. Got a couple of banjaxed belt tensioners while I was in with him that I'm going to use the springs from in the build of a sheet metal brake too, so score! Anyway thanks for the tips gents, and ref for anyone who finds this; there was a gap in the factory welds on the tube on both sides of my chassis. Assuming it's possibe to get the tube sealed when the bolts are in and tight [I know it'd be hit and miss] this undermines the whole thing. I zipped along the bolt tube and weld up the cuts afterward... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted January 9, 2018 Author Share Posted January 9, 2018 You can see the gap in the factory welds in the first photo. It's where the chassis halves overlap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 Excellent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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