Jump to content

1964 SIIA bulkhead replacement


TheBigJim

Recommended Posts

Put windscreen back y'day, begins to look like a landy again, not much done today as blowing a gale.

 

I have captive nuts on a strip of metal for teh top door hinges, should I have teh same for the bottom ones???

'Her' birthday tomorrow, so taking her out for lunch, won't get much done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For your hinges, i think the answer is yes, but pop a few photos on the website so we ca all see.

 

Oh, and this looks like a vehicle thread, I think it deserves it's own thread on the projects or vehicles sub forum!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

37 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

For your hinges, i think the answer is yes, but pop a few photos on the website so we ca all see.

 

Oh, and this looks like a vehicle thread, I think it deserves it's own thread on the projects or vehicles sub forum!

Thanks, Gazzar.

Yes it is a project. I am new to this forum, so not aware of all the places to post. I will start a thread asap.

I was a member of the forum that went defunct, and there was a thread on when I put the new galvy chassis on her, it was archived, but I guess that has disappeared?

I see one or two familiar names on here, good to see some old hands still going strong.

BJ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎1‎/‎13‎/‎2018 at 9:14 AM, TheBigJim said:

Thanks for the suggestion.

I put washing up liquid as a lubricant along the top edge, and they almost closed, so now I will get the heat gun out and see if they go the last bit.

BJ

Have you checked that the air vent mechanism is right and nothing obstructing it on the inside of the bulkhead, for instance if the handle assy's are the wrong way round and upside down or odd ones the teeth can be out of sink, hope this helps :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, it was confusing, but I took loads of pics as I took it apart, and have them all correct.I would expect the pull to be at the bottom, but it was not, and the pic in the manual (page 25Q) shows it as I have it. But i can't see why it wouldn't work the other way up! perhaps a bit more experimental engineering, always possible on a landy!

I think it is just that the new 'rubbers' are hard plastic. I had replaced one before, and kept that one, and that has very nearly shut, so I think if I warm them and work at it they will shut eventually.

Really blowing a hoolie here today, and I'm a bit 'under the weather', so nothing done today.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had that with Britpart seals, which are too thick and too stiff.  I had to get genuine seals, even they were a bit stiff initially, but they did fit.

If you get no joy, you can use later Defender foam seals to the back of the flaps, which have the added benefit of not trapping water in the bulkhead pressings and the subsequent rust it causes.  They tend to seal better, too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/01/2018 at 7:25 PM, TheBigJim said:

Put windscreen back y'day, begins to look like a landy again, not much done today as blowing a gale.

 

I have captive nuts on a strip of metal for teh top door hinges, should I have teh same for the bottom ones???

'Her' birthday tomorrow, so taking her out for lunch, won't get much done.

I have concluded that the top hinges were on spire nuts, the bottom on captive ones, as the captive ones wont fit in the top slot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

managed to get the captive nuts to the top door hinge, but...

 

Please will someone post a copy of the positions of driver and passenger door hinges on an SIIA. Having taken them all off (and stupidly not taken photos), the combination of 8 hinge parts and 4 positions etc has got me beat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, TheBigJim said:

managed to get the captive nuts to the top door hinge, but...

 

Please will someone post a copy of the positions of driver and passenger door hinges on an SIIA. Having taken them all off (and stupidly not taken photos), the combination of 8 hinge parts and 4 positions etc has got me beat.

I think I sussed the hinges after mushrroms on toast for lunch!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The short "half" of the hinge goes on the door pillar, the long half on the door.  The door piece should sit above the pillar piece so that the brass ball is compressed by the weight of the door.  If you have two hinges which stick out further from the mounting surface than the other two, those will be the top hinges (made that way so that vertical hinge pins are in line despite the body narrowing just below the top hinge - SIII and possibly later SII hinges had tilted pins that allowed identical hinges top and bottom).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you had the bulkhead off, it could be the bulkhead adjustment, not the hinges, causing the problem.  When building up the body, the bulkhead longitudinal adjustment is set from the front edge of the tub, but the front of the tub's height is set from the bulkhead, so you need to adjust both if one has been removed.  In practice, the tub height is set first with a line along the crease just below the galv cappings and top hinge, then the door space and bulkhead inclination are set from the tub.

 

Pattern doors are often not squarely jigged, so will never sit right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I understand!

She is a station wagon with hardtop, so I  think position of bulkhead is fixed at the bottom by the feet, and at the top by the windscreen, which is determined by the attachment to the roof.  It all seemed to fit OK when put back, the doors had never been a good fit, and are better now than they were.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The bulkhead height is fixed, as there is next to no vertical adjustment on its feet.  That's why the tub front end height has to be set from it.  Once that is set, then the bulkhead foot position has to be adjusted with big washers between chassis outrigger and door pillar foot to get the right distance for the sill.  Once that is set, then the bulkhead top needs to be set so that the door pillar is parallel to the tub B-pillar.  To do that, the steering column supports need their bolts into the foot wells and their three bolts through the chassis to be loose (and the front wings, naturally).

Only once the bulkhead is aligned can you then set the windscreen, so make sure its bolts are all loosened while adjusting the rest.  Once that is all done, then you can go about the doors and hinges.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 18/01/2018 at 1:06 PM, TheBigJim said:

managed to get the captive nuts to the top door hinge, but...

 

Please will someone post a copy of the positions of driver and passenger door hinges on an SIIA. Having taken them all off (and stupidly not taken photos), the combination of 8 hinge parts and 4 positions etc has got me beat.

My home made captive 'nuts', were a strip of thick metal with tapped holes in them.

I have now discovered there are captive nuts available from Paddocks, , part no MRC2178

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy