TheBigJim Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 Glued new rubber seals in groove behind vents, but one vent won't close. Any hints, other than making rubber seal thinner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBigJim Posted January 12, 2018 Author Share Posted January 12, 2018 Put windscreen back y'day, begins to look like a landy again, not much done today as blowing a gale. I have captive nuts on a strip of metal for teh top door hinges, should I have teh same for the bottom ones??? 'Her' birthday tomorrow, so taking her out for lunch, won't get much done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan_meakin Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 Did you solve the vent seal problem? Have you tried warming it? Some parts are made relatively hard plastic as opposed to the old fashioned rubber... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 For your hinges, i think the answer is yes, but pop a few photos on the website so we ca all see. Oh, and this looks like a vehicle thread, I think it deserves it's own thread on the projects or vehicles sub forum! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBigJim Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 Thanks for the suggestion. I put washing up liquid as a lubricant along the top edge, and they almost closed, so now I will get the heat gun out and see if they go the last bit. BJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBigJim Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 37 minutes ago, Gazzar said: For your hinges, i think the answer is yes, but pop a few photos on the website so we ca all see. Oh, and this looks like a vehicle thread, I think it deserves it's own thread on the projects or vehicles sub forum! Thanks, Gazzar. Yes it is a project. I am new to this forum, so not aware of all the places to post. I will start a thread asap. I was a member of the forum that went defunct, and there was a thread on when I put the new galvy chassis on her, it was archived, but I guess that has disappeared? I see one or two familiar names on here, good to see some old hands still going strong. BJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 Welcome Jim. I too would be interested to see a rebuild thread. Members Vehicles forum is the place for it Whereabouts on the West coast are you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 On 1/13/2018 at 9:14 AM, TheBigJim said: Thanks for the suggestion. I put washing up liquid as a lubricant along the top edge, and they almost closed, so now I will get the heat gun out and see if they go the last bit. BJ Have you checked that the air vent mechanism is right and nothing obstructing it on the inside of the bulkhead, for instance if the handle assy's are the wrong way round and upside down or odd ones the teeth can be out of sink, hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBigJim Posted January 14, 2018 Author Share Posted January 14, 2018 Yes, it was confusing, but I took loads of pics as I took it apart, and have them all correct.I would expect the pull to be at the bottom, but it was not, and the pic in the manual (page 25Q) shows it as I have it. But i can't see why it wouldn't work the other way up! perhaps a bit more experimental engineering, always possible on a landy! I think it is just that the new 'rubbers' are hard plastic. I had replaced one before, and kept that one, and that has very nearly shut, so I think if I warm them and work at it they will shut eventually. Really blowing a hoolie here today, and I'm a bit 'under the weather', so nothing done today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 I had that with Britpart seals, which are too thick and too stiff. I had to get genuine seals, even they were a bit stiff initially, but they did fit. If you get no joy, you can use later Defender foam seals to the back of the flaps, which have the added benefit of not trapping water in the bulkhead pressings and the subsequent rust it causes. They tend to seal better, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBigJim Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 Thanks, Snagger. In fact I have some neoprene off cuts from a firm that makes wet suits, could probably make my own!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBigJim Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 On 12/01/2018 at 7:25 PM, TheBigJim said: Put windscreen back y'day, begins to look like a landy again, not much done today as blowing a gale. I have captive nuts on a strip of metal for teh top door hinges, should I have teh same for the bottom ones??? 'Her' birthday tomorrow, so taking her out for lunch, won't get much done. I have concluded that the top hinges were on spire nuts, the bottom on captive ones, as the captive ones wont fit in the top slot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBigJim Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 managed to get the captive nuts to the top door hinge, but... Please will someone post a copy of the positions of driver and passenger door hinges on an SIIA. Having taken them all off (and stupidly not taken photos), the combination of 8 hinge parts and 4 positions etc has got me beat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBigJim Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 5 hours ago, TheBigJim said: managed to get the captive nuts to the top door hinge, but... Please will someone post a copy of the positions of driver and passenger door hinges on an SIIA. Having taken them all off (and stupidly not taken photos), the combination of 8 hinge parts and 4 positions etc has got me beat. I think I sussed the hinges after mushrroms on toast for lunch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 The short "half" of the hinge goes on the door pillar, the long half on the door. The door piece should sit above the pillar piece so that the brass ball is compressed by the weight of the door. If you have two hinges which stick out further from the mounting surface than the other two, those will be the top hinges (made that way so that vertical hinge pins are in line despite the body narrowing just below the top hinge - SIII and possibly later SII hinges had tilted pins that allowed identical hinges top and bottom). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBigJim Posted January 20, 2018 Author Share Posted January 20, 2018 Thanks, snagger. I finally sussed it out, but had difficulty getting the doors to line up properly, got them near enough in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 If you had the bulkhead off, it could be the bulkhead adjustment, not the hinges, causing the problem. When building up the body, the bulkhead longitudinal adjustment is set from the front edge of the tub, but the front of the tub's height is set from the bulkhead, so you need to adjust both if one has been removed. In practice, the tub height is set first with a line along the crease just below the galv cappings and top hinge, then the door space and bulkhead inclination are set from the tub. Pattern doors are often not squarely jigged, so will never sit right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBigJim Posted January 22, 2018 Author Share Posted January 22, 2018 I think I understand! She is a station wagon with hardtop, so I think position of bulkhead is fixed at the bottom by the feet, and at the top by the windscreen, which is determined by the attachment to the roof. It all seemed to fit OK when put back, the doors had never been a good fit, and are better now than they were. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 The bulkhead height is fixed, as there is next to no vertical adjustment on its feet. That's why the tub front end height has to be set from it. Once that is set, then the bulkhead foot position has to be adjusted with big washers between chassis outrigger and door pillar foot to get the right distance for the sill. Once that is set, then the bulkhead top needs to be set so that the door pillar is parallel to the tub B-pillar. To do that, the steering column supports need their bolts into the foot wells and their three bolts through the chassis to be loose (and the front wings, naturally). Only once the bulkhead is aligned can you then set the windscreen, so make sure its bolts are all loosened while adjusting the rest. Once that is all done, then you can go about the doors and hinges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBigJim Posted January 23, 2018 Author Share Posted January 23, 2018 Thanks, now I understand! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBigJim Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 On 18/01/2018 at 1:06 PM, TheBigJim said: managed to get the captive nuts to the top door hinge, but... Please will someone post a copy of the positions of driver and passenger door hinges on an SIIA. Having taken them all off (and stupidly not taken photos), the combination of 8 hinge parts and 4 positions etc has got me beat. My home made captive 'nuts', were a strip of thick metal with tapped holes in them. I have now discovered there are captive nuts available from Paddocks, , part no MRC2178 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 On 24/01/2018 at 5:33 PM, TheBigJim said: My home made captive 'nuts', were a strip of thick metal with tapped holes in them. I have now discovered there are captive nuts available from Paddocks, , part no MRC2178 Not got my bulkhead yet but when I do I'll let you know how I get on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBigJim Posted January 26, 2018 Author Share Posted January 26, 2018 3 hours ago, Cornish Rattler said: Not got my bulkhead yet but when I do I'll let you know how I get on WHERE ARE YOU GETTING IT FROM? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 3 hours ago, TheBigJim said: WHERE ARE YOU GETTING IT FROM? I've not decided yet to be honest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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