Simon B Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 Ive studied the various threads and about the above but not seen a similar fault. Every 3-5 years I have to replace my ignition switch/lock . Its a 1990 v8, all the circuit diags show a wire from the ignition to the fuse box then to the heater motor. On all the failed ignition switches its this terminal that appears to melt, the back of the switch gets all loose and wobbly then you have to change it. The wire itself to the fuse box seems pretty thin gauge, though it never blows the fuse the fuse itself is also a touch on the brown singed looking side. Anyone else seen this fault, I'm tempted to run a new wire in to the fuse box from a better switched feed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 (edited) Put in a relay for the blower motor. That is the better solution. Make sure you are buying OEM switches. They should have Lucas branding on them with Lucas part numbers. The aftermarket switches are complete carp. Edited January 11, 2018 by Red90 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon B Posted January 11, 2018 Author Share Posted January 11, 2018 They’ve always been the questionable quality Lucas part. What I don’t quite get is why the v8 is the only model that gets the heater motor off it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 The heater motors runs from the switch on all models. There are never any relays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 Simon, A relay would seem to be the solution though unoriginal if that concerns you. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon B Posted January 12, 2018 Author Share Posted January 12, 2018 Its the issue of the switch burning itself out each time, the heater motor seems to draw 4 amps but its a thin gauge wire and isn't brown or brown with an orange trace. It appears to be white with an orange or red trace? When I replace the ignition switch and lock I'll take my fuse box off the bulkhead and check the wire colours on either side of the fuse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon B Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 Changed the lock and switch, it was the el cheapo switch module on the end, is this a spare to save me the effort next time? Held on by a rubbish miniature Philips screw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SanDiego110 Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 I just put my 1989 2.5 TD back together after replacing the head gasket. I tried to start it up, and instead of hearing the starter motor crank, I see smoke rising from behind the steering wheel and smell electrical burning smell. I'll pull out the ignition switch and give an update. What else might cause this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Forget to hook up the glow plug wire and it is shorting out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SanDiego110 Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 You are my Landy hero! I knew I connected it but just checked to make sure the connectors weren't contacting the block... #4 plug connector was indeed touching the block. Bent it out and tried to start. Vroom!!! So awesome... never expected it to fire right up after my first head gasket job... it purrs and no smoke at all. Thank you sir! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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