supaimpy Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 D2 airtronic, or a D4WSC would be my choices , D1 or D1LC both going to be over 18 years old and parts supply on some of the parts is tricky Remember all heaters modulate , half power on a D4 Airtronic would be enough for a 110, however the heaters are better running harder, they soot /carbon up less. If you want manuals or diagrams just shout Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vogler Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 (edited) I have installed a Planar 2D heater in/under our 110 Hardtop. Planar is decent kit, and lots of parts are German or French made. Only downside of the Planar is the standard command module which is quite 'cryptic'. We often didn't have a clue if the thing was starting or shutting down, so I can strongly suggest one of the optional displays. Also the standard cable to it is rather short, but a longer one is available. Planar has some support, Webasto has an extensive worldwide dealer network for support. But if you treat the Planar well it will last a long time. There's a nakatanenga unit to fit it under the cubby box. However, we use the rear of the car for shelter during the trip and the rear bulkhead would be in the way. Therefore I opted to install the heater in a housing underneath the car: less noise inside, more airflow throughout the car and no chance of harming it when loading stuff. The diesel pickup tube that comes with the set fits nicely through the nipple that is foreseen on top of the Td5 diesel pump. Some pics: Air intake in the rear of our Hardtop: Hot air outlet in the front of the cargo hold ( admittedly rather improvised) The machine fitted in the stainless Nakatanenga housing (link to relevant page in German), underneath the right hand side 'bench'. It's not used as meant to; the housing is upside down and the original holes have been closed up. It's not a perfect solution and I need to undo inlet, outlet and fuel line to open the box: I also put some rivnuts in the lid as drains for any water that enters the housing. I chose the right hand side because there's a dent in the left hand side of the car which I like to 'replace' by a sidelocker so there would be no room for the Planar anymore. Installing at the right is rather cumbersome: not to install the exhaust close to the car's fuel lines would prove to be the biggest challenge of the installation, and often during the process I wished that the exhaust tubing would be a bit longer. Fuel pump at the left of the car. You have to plug in the cables in the multiplug but mind: look for the 1 and 2 on the plug (barely visible) and check the installation manual what goes where. I missed that and had to cut the cable to correct polarity to the pump. A belgian club member also has a heater installed underneath the right hand bench and made an access door in the bench itself. IIRC the Eberspacher and Webasto will both go in error mode when there's no fuel, this can only be reset by a technician. It's not the case with the Planar which can be reset by the user. One day I should look for more insulated tubing. The air ducts are Webasto stuff. It's all compatible with Planar but mind that you order the right diameter, there are two that differ only slightly -something like 59 and 62mm diameter. I needed the latter. Edit: there are different kinds of tubing, and the brown cardboard coloured type is not suitable for external use. Hopes this helps, Joris Edited January 30, 2018 by Vogler clarity 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supaimpy Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Ebers no fuel safety function is after 5 attempts, however with the right controller eg 801with diagnostics the owner can clear the fault codes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 The Pf Jones chap sells the planar type too - https://www.pfjones.co.uk/planar-2d-12-tm-air-heater-12v.html The reviews are worth reading. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 I've just got a Webasto Airtop 2000ST for my van, picked up a brand new 2016 kit for £500 from ebay. I've got a Webasto hermotop C water heater in the 90 with a key fob start, really like it. Stuck with Webasto as I like the range of temp controllers and they're interchangeable with some of the thermotop stuff. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 I’ve got a mikuni MY30 in my series, it works very well, and frankly is actually a bit too powerful for a swb series. Mine is mounted up high like John Utteridge’s. the mikuni is surprisingly simple, and the full circuit diagrams etc are available online. it also needs no diagnostics so is fully diy able. i built my own control unit without a thermostat as I didn’t see the need for one. cheers jon 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 There’s a fella on the mig welding forum who has a couple of eberspacher stock sell http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/diesel-night-heaters.78688/page-4 i thought I’d just point it out in case of any use to anyone here. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 That conversation on mig welding seems to state that you need an awful lot of kw (5-7?) to heat a car that’s moving when it’s cold outside ..... what’s folks views on that here? I am planning on using a Diesel air heater as my sole heater in my Series, which will have a canvas top ..... is that not realistic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supaimpy Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 well a D4 Airtronic will heat an A + E Ambulance so a SWB Landie wont need more than a D2 Airtronic , the canvas top won't be a problem . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 42 minutes ago, Anderzander said: That conversation on mig welding seems to state that you need an awful lot of kw (5-7?) to heat a car that’s moving when it’s cold outside ..... what’s folks views on that here? I am planning on using a Diesel air heater as my sole heater in my Series, which will have a canvas top ..... is that not realistic? My D1LC gets the 110 to 30C internally when it’s minus figures outside. Does that help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 Thanks guys - I’d have hated to have gone to the trouble and expense of fitting one and then still been cold ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted February 2, 2018 Author Share Posted February 2, 2018 Reb78 is there a link for the eberspacher on eblag? Might be worth a look depending on models? I’m very tempted by the planar D2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 I don’t think he’s listed them. I can pass an email to him if you want to get in contact and discuss details. Just PM me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 D1lc is enough for a 110 to sleep in with a 1 year old in winter so anything from there up is good. I only have a D2 for the ibex because it came up. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 How well do they circulate the air? A lot of installations seem to only use the single vent... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 I've not noticed a problem, the fan seems powerful enough and its not too long until the relatively small space is well heated. I'd not bother with additional piping to be honest - but the only thing I would do which someone one here recommended is to have an extension pipe coiled up somewhere so that when you add a rear tent (which I have) you can run a pipe out to that and sit in the tent at night with warm air blowing on your bits! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted February 2, 2018 Author Share Posted February 2, 2018 Good thinking Jocklandjohn, I’ve got an awning room I can attach to the ARB. That would work just dandy when I get a heater. The quest goes on....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supaimpy Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 be careful adding additional ducting to an air heater, they have a maximum amount of ducting depending on diameter, length , number of bends and outlets, exceed the heater guide figure and you risk tripping the overheat sensor , and then you'll have no heat! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 I've been thinking of fitting one of these as I'm planning on starting carp fishing again , but was thinking of fitting a small auxiliary fuel tank to run it off , has anyone done this ? I know they don't use a lot of fuel but if I'm by the side of a lake for a week the last thing I'd want is to run out of fuel . cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted February 8, 2018 Share Posted February 8, 2018 2 hours ago, ianmayco68 said: I've been thinking of fitting one of these as I'm planning on starting carp fishing again , but was thinking of fitting a small auxiliary fuel tank to run it off , has anyone done this ? I know they don't use a lot of fuel but if I'm by the side of a lake for a week the last thing I'd want is to run out of fuel . cheers Ian Use the proper heater fuel pick up and it will never draw below the level of the engine fuel pick up. That’s probably more simple than a separate tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miggit Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 There is a obvious advantage to using the auxiliary tank, you can run it on red diesel, or better still heating oil (even less tax) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skirky dave Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 DC, In the lwb, it looks or seems, to be a popular fix. If you do decide to go this route, do you think you could provide us with a full write up as to how this is done. I'm sure there must be dozens of Landy owners interested in this, A mate of mine converted his SWB Series 3 into a sort of camper BUT...it WAS EXTREMELY CRAMPED!!!,to say the least. So much more space with the LWB. Which is i use my old paraffin stoves. I don't have the space in the back for one of these night heaters. or the pennies come to that.Nor do i have the space for the spare battery to run the pump through the night. But for you! it seems a really good conversion. All the best mate Dave. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Ian - flat out they use about 0.4 litres/hour but you'd boil to death before long, on the low setting they idle along at 0.1 litre/hour (the manual does give numbers for each model). A half-size jerry can or small plastic boat tank is plenty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted February 12, 2018 Author Share Posted February 12, 2018 47 minutes ago, skirky dave said: DC, In the lwb, it looks or seems, to be a popular fix. If you do decide to go this route, do you think you could provide us with a full write up as to how this is done. I'm sure there must be dozens of Landy owners interested in this, A mate of mine converted his SWB Series 3 into a sort of camper BUT...it WAS EXTREMELY CRAMPED!!!,to say the least. So much more space with the LWB. Which is i use my old paraffin stoves. I don't have the space in the back for one of these night heaters. or the pennies come to that.Nor do i have the space for the spare battery to run the pump through the night. But for you! it seems a really good conversion. All the best mate Dave. Hi Dave, when I do get one I shall do my best to give the details, not sure it would be up to forum standards but I’ll give it a go. still looking at the minute but with one thing and another haven’t bid on any eberspacher yet. I get goosebumps even thinking bout it, all cosy warm and a preheated truck to climb into 😊😊😎🔥 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skirky dave Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Yep....kind of get what you mean. With a night heater you would probably do away with the cold shelf in the landy, which would be a massive bonus. I've just been looking on the bay of evil and these or sooo expensive new!, But there again, you get the guarantee as well. I was just reading Fridge Freezers post. That's really really cheap to run...for a full night's heating. The wiring up is not something i'm good at, / basics maybe but wiring in thermostats,12v split chargers, relays and it's a question of ...oh dear, hear we go!!!. Maybe a unit from a scrapyard but there again i don't know which vehicles have them fitted. Or second hand off Ebay. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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