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Best night heater?


DC_

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Nice one Miggit cheap fuel sounds good didn’t know you could run them on heating oil ,we live out in the sticks so our heating runs on oil can get them to fill a drum when they come to fill the tank . Hadn’t thought about a boat tank Fridge Freezer , good idea that will have a look see what I can come up with . So running them on a separate tank makes sense based on running costs , probably not as easy an install as if you used the trucks fuel but if you’ve got the space worth doing .

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That looks a descent kit ThreeSheds just had a look at it on eBay, from Hong Kong I don’t know wether I could sleep at night knowing that was on in my truck , I’d be worried about waking up and seeing my truck looking like that car . Suppose in would be toasty in there though, the non trusting comes from the stepson, he brought a go pro type camera of eBay from China when he tried to charge it the damn thing melted and knackered the wall socket , so I think I’d need to know a few people had fitted the and had no problems.

Cheers Arjan will keep that in mind .

cheers Ian 

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I joined a facebook group of Chinese copy heaters to find out their experiences.  It's a strange group; most posters have had delays, missing deliveries, broken or malfunctioning units, missing parts and unintelligible instructions, but congratulate themselves on a great bargain.  The admins  and many other members threaten or ban those who admit their mistake and make those reports in a tone of complaint or anger to warn others off, rather than weak postings meekly asking for advice.  I have no doubt that even if they light up and provide heat without bursting into flames, that many would be leaking toxic fumes into the cabin.  I have seen enough Chinese produce, in Europe, the Middle East and China itself, to know it's mostly dangerous carp.  Don't be tempted; their stuff is cheap for a reason.

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I just can't imagine laying down for a peaceful night's sleep in a small metal box, warmed by a small diesel fire contained by something made in China :ph34r: if it doesn't just stop working, it can burn you & your truck to the ground and/or kill you with carbon monoxide fumes while you sleep... sorry but I trust a 2nd hand box made by Ze Germans way more than the brand new Chinese one.

It's like buying Britpart brakes - when you're standing on the pedal trying to avoid an accident you aren't going to be congratulating yourself on saving £5 :lol:

Then again, buying an extra tank just so you can save 5p/hour on diesel strikes me as a special sort of tightar5ed :rolleyes:

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How many Planars will be running in 20 to 25 years time , which looking on ebay is the age of some of the D1 and D3 heaters.

The thing to also consider is how many Planars are used as OEM factory fit?, theres good reason why both Eber and Web get selected, quality and certification, everything is tested to automotive standards , the casings and castings etc maybe retro engineered (copied) for looks  but what about the materials ?

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19 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

and/or kill you with carbon monoxide fumes while you sleep

At least this wouldn't happen because we would all fit a CO detector in the van nomatter what make of heater we are using, right? :)

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1 hour ago, Anderzander said:

I must confess to never having thought of that, and I beat the vast majority of people who have fitted them haven’t either.

at £13 for a battery powered detector... I hope you do now :D

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Also be careful how you route the exhaust - the factory install on our ambulance routes it right across the underside of the vehicle to come out as far away from the side window as possible (only got a window on one side, exhaust exits the opposite side). All too easy to have exhaust fumes trickle up through the Land Rover panel gaps while you sleep...

 

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On 2/13/2018 at 10:23 AM, Arjan said:

We have 2 tanks in most vehicles - either a big 2nd one or, like in the 88", a 10 ltr. night heater one. Works very well. Mount them high and you don't need the pump.

 

I always thought the pump acted as a metering device.

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The pump is a pulse pump controlled by the the heaters control box or icu ,if you listen you will hear the pace change, its important the pump is mounted at the correct angle as well overfuelling  (can be caused by pump angle) causes overheating , they are simple beasts if installed correctly and maintained like any electro mechanical item  they will be reliable , if you dont stray from the manufacturers  advise on fuel lines, exhaust lenghts and diameters, ducting lenghts  if an air heater , you wont get too many unexpected cold times.

Been working with and on Eberspachers for nearly 20 years

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On 2/14/2018 at 10:42 PM, supaimpy said:

The pump is a pulse pump controlled by the the heaters control box or icu ,if you listen you will hear the pace change, its important the pump is mounted at the correct angle as well overfuelling  (can be caused by pump angle) causes overheating , they are simple beasts if installed correctly and maintained like any electro mechanical item  they will be reliable , if you dont stray from the manufacturers  advise on fuel lines, exhaust lenghts and diameters, ducting lenghts  if an air heater , you wont get too many unexpected cold times.

Been working with and on Eberspachers for nearly 20 years

That's what I thought.:unsure:

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  • 1 year later...

As the weather gets colder my thoughts are once again turning to diesel cabin heaters to prevent mild hypothermia on my commute to work. Having had a good rummage around i think a second hand unit from fleabay might be the best choice. Too many concerns on here about the £150 chinese heaters and i'd rather not poison myself in the process. My only concern being my electrical skills are, at best, 2/10 so i'm worried i'm either a) not going to buy something with all the correct parts and/or b) be unable to fit it properly to the truck. Any advice for buying 2nd hand?

I'm thinking something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eberspacher-d2-12volt-diesel-heater/233398616874

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I wouldn’t rule out the Chinese version. I’ve had one for a year and half now and it’s flawless. Get yourself on to the book of faces page for them. There’s lots of info. Replace the fuel lines and clamps that come with it for proper eberspacher ones and it shouldn’t have any problem. They really are great. I just press the remote from the window in the house and in 15 minutes the Landy s roasty. I’ve also left it on all night camping in the Glens of Scotland and it’s amazing. 👍

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1 hour ago, DC_ said:

I wouldn’t rule out the Chinese version. I’ve had one for a year and half now and it’s flawless. Get yourself on to the book of faces page for them. There’s lots of info. Replace the fuel lines and clamps that come with it for proper eberspacher ones and it shouldn’t have any problem. They really are great. I just press the remote from the window in the house and in 15 minutes the Landy s roasty. I’ve also left it on all night camping in the Glens of Scotland and it’s amazing. 👍

What was the issue with the fuel lines and clamps? Do you have it hooked up to your fuel tank or the wee 10L tanks they come with? The cost is quite tempting with the chinese ones but i still have my concerns. This one looked quite interesting as well: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ETE-ETMATE-Diesel-Heater-Control/dp/B07YDCVF1X/ref=sr_1_4?crid=37CIGF49G1ZMG&keywords=diesel+heater+12v&qid=1573730498&refinements=p_76%3A419158031&rnid=419157031&rps=1&sprefix=diesel+heater+12%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-4

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The heater you linked to on eBay looks 'complete' but it does need some other items. The loom is all there; you can see the big connector that has a clip that mates to the heater multi-way and the little one for the pump. The green one must be for the programmer. Also there are two fuses in a holder - the heater has two +12V feeds, so that's OK too. The loom looks well made.

The pump has the rubber clamp / mount so that's OK.

You need a length of combustion inlet pipe and an end for it and length of stainless exhaust pipe and a silencer (although this isn't obligatory) . These need the appropriate hose clips for the terminations and some support clamps for along their length. You will need a fuel tank pick-up and the appropriate fuel pipe from there to the pump with the necessary clips at the ends and supports. For the latter I used P-clips with rubber inserts. I ran the fuel pipes in a very narrow convoluted tube for protection.

How you supply fuel is a whole extra story. I have a 300TDi and thought that a simple Tee of the line to the injection pump would work. It should have done but didn't until i fitted a pressure control valve. It might be much easier to use one of the little, separate fuel tanks.

The heater needs to have a cowl on the cabin air inlet and on the outlet you probably need a short length of duct with a hose clip and an outlet cowl. It depends how you decide to 'use' the heated air.

Oh and also there should be a thick seal that goes between the bottom of the heater and the mounting surface.

Plus the fuel lines need olives and unions plus hose clips at the heater end.

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1 hour ago, paime said:

What was the issue with the fuel lines and clamps? Do you have it hooked up to your fuel tank or the wee 10L tanks they come with? The cost is quite tempting with the chinese ones but i still have my concerns. This one looked quite interesting as well: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ETE-ETMATE-Diesel-Heater-Control/dp/B07YDCVF1X/ref=sr_1_4?crid=37CIGF49G1ZMG&keywords=diesel+heater+12v&qid=1573730498&refinements=p_76%3A419158031&rnid=419157031&rps=1&sprefix=diesel+heater+12%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-4

The heater usually comes with carp clear green fuel line which lets air in which obvs isn’t great for the output of heat. The jubilee clips supplied again are carp. So proper eberspacher fuel line (white) I think it’s 1.4mm and the proper 4mm black (rubber I think) connecter pipe so it fits on the heater and the pump. You can get the fuel line easy and cheap on eblag or such..... jubilee clamps again easy to get on the sites. I’ll have a look in my eblag history and see if I can get links.

i bought a 5L tank as the 10L was too big for where I wanted to install it. In the jerry can side compartment on my ex MoD 110. The advantage of having it separate from your trucks fuel tank, is that you can run it on red diesel legally if you can get a hold of it. The best fuel to run them on is kerosene (central heating fuel) as it burns cleaner. As I say the face of books is a very good source of info. There’s lots of documents on installs etc there. Where to buy and spare parts. 

I put mine inside an old ammunition box and bolted it to the inside. Made a hole through and used a turret plate for better installation. I replaced the carp exhaust silencer with a Marine one as the one supplied rusts very quickly. 

I can send you some pics if you want. 

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