Simon_CSK Posted February 3, 2018 Share Posted February 3, 2018 One of my Disco 2's has a persistent overheating problem. Have changed the radiator, water pump and the thermostat but it still persists. On the road it pulls better than my other TD5 so I cannot understand why it has so much power but looses all the water in 20 miles. Any ideas? Could the head be cracked? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 I suppose you could be suffering from water loss, but benefitting from water injection. This could explain both effects. New head gasket???? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave88sw Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 The fuel coolers often leak from the o rings that seal the end caps. I'd have a pressure test done and make sure i'm 100% certain it's not leaking out but if it all tests fine for leaks your only option is to take the head off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_CSK Posted February 5, 2018 Author Share Posted February 5, 2018 On 2/4/2018 at 1:27 AM, Troll Hunter said: I suppose you could be suffering from water loss, but benefitting from water injection. This could explain both effects. New head gasket???? Mike I think it is chipped so it has more power. It certainly has always pulled very well. When the water pump was done we did replace the "O" ring so I am thinking issues with the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 Does it lose the coolant regardless of load? Will it lose it at idle? Check if the top hose is pressurised once the car is up to temp, then after a run. Losing all the coolant in 20 miles is either a leak bad enough you'd see it [or evidence of it], or a head/head gasket problem. Check all the hoses for clean patches too, if the coolant is getting pushed out under pressure it can steam clean areas close by. The bottom steel pipework can rot from the inside out at it's ends/joints so that's an area to have a good look at. The aluminium pipe where the top hose meets the head can corrode badly too, look for evidence of coolant there as well. Hope it's something simple like that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnoK Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 Is the oil still oil or is there mousse in the tappet cover? If it's mousse, then you have an oil cooler failure. If the oil is good, then you need to look at the hoses for pressurising. If they aren't pressurising, then you may have a water jacket failing into an exhaust port. The early 10P engines are apparently more prone to failures, mine was pumping up the hoses and 2 gasket changes did nothing to remedy it, I ended up getting an AMC head with valves and it did the job nicely. When you have sorted it, look at getting a Little Black Box or Madman to monitor the water level, at least, and other parameters if you get the Madman. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Run with the rocker breather off to check for crank case pressure, mine chuffed like hell out of here, secondly run up to temp, carefully remove header tank cap to release pressure, replace and rev engine to limiter for ~20 seconds and then check header tank pressure at idle straight after much pressure indicates water/combustion interference will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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