timmylr Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 Hi all new to the forum but not new to old landys.. I brought a 3.5 v8 efi classic non runner ish managed to get it on the trailer just on about 3 cylinders. it starts eventually but runns very rough can't rev it on about 3 and vertuly no throttle response apart from foot flat to the floor i may get to about 4 cylinders. i have done the basics leads plugs changed the dizzy over plug leads in order compression tested all good 150 even. checks the tps some one mentioned the fuel pump in the tank but seams good pressure when remove the filter get a good spray out. bit stuck tbh if anyone can shed some light that would be great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 You may get pressure, but not flow from fuel pump.... BUT, change the ignition amplifier out, and test the coolant temp sensor, the tech archive on here has the details of there that is in the diagnostics manual for the flapper systems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Done the timing? Sure it's OK? Pop the dizzy cap off & turn the rotor arm with your fingers. Release & it should snap back smartly to its previous position. If it doesn't but just remains where you moved it to then the advance/retard mech in the bottom of the dizzy is disconnected & that is a main reason why it won't run. Very common on these if you pull the rotor arm off without pressing down on the reluctor (star shaped thing under the rotor arm) as you pull. Is the rotor arm one of the sort where the metal strip is riveted to the arm? If so throw it away & get one where the strip is moulded into the arm. Amplifier is a good call on the hotwire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Corrosion in the power resistor unit connectors,(Bout the size of a fag packet) far too long ago for me to remember any more than that,but its bolted to the LH inner wing I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walace58 Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 Had something like this last year, on my RRC 94, 3.9. Driving along, then stopped at road works. Engine ticking over roughly, but no response to throttle. It eventually gave up. Towed to my garage, they initially thought fuel starvation, but it turned out to be the distributor, advance retard. LR price £1400! They sourced a ‘chinese’ one, they take it to bits, check all joints etc, then refit, £150! other issue a couple of years back, was suddenly dying whilst driving normally, would then fire, and run roughly. initially changed ign amp as quite old, probably original, then again fuel pump, but that turned out to be more connector issues. Possible petrol issue , vaporising, so tried better quality, highe octane with lass ethanol. Thought of leads, cap etc, but it turned out to be much more simple, the coil! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timmylr Posted February 17, 2018 Author Share Posted February 17, 2018 Update dont know how but got it running but not perfect but running ish!! but won't tick over so and had it running holding the throttle at 2k for a few min then it stalled now wont restart.. I am thinking of putting carbs on the dam thing anyone changed the efi to carbs ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 (edited) Hotwire or flapper? This worth a look to identify what you've got & some suggestions of faults: http://www.carelect.demon.co.uk/rrind.html The flapper ECU can be a PITA. They do come up on ebay, but it's a risk as you don't know whether they're any good. The 4cu is also used on the Rover 3500 SD1. There are several different part numbers & I have a few but all appear interchangeable & that was confirmed by an email I had from Lucas some years ago. There may be minor tune differences but I haven't noticed any running issues on my own car. Conversion to hotwire is usually suggested as a good idea but I've no idea how to do it. Mine's a flapper. In the 20 odd years I've had mine I've had 2 ECU failures. First suddenly started running very rich with clouds of black smoke & the second suddenly started running very rough. I've got LPG & on both occasions switching to it restored normal running pointing to a fuelling issue. Swapping to a known good ECU restored normal petrol running. Last issue I had seemed much the same but was a split in the hose from the ram housing to the extra air valve - ERC9117 Edited February 18, 2018 by paintman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 There's a full step-by-step fault finding guide in the technical archive section, the flapper EFI isn't complicated and there's not really a lot to go wrong with it. Just run through the guide step by step WITHOUT skipping anything because you "know" it's OK and come back and post up results if you get stuck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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