Jump to content

Heated door mirrors


Troll Hunter

Recommended Posts

I'm sure that I've read, some years ago, an account of fitting heater elements to Defender door mirrors, but whatever search criteria I input the search engine returns zero hits.  Please, can anybody point me to the thread, or should I accept onset of dementia:wacko:!

Many thanks for any pointers, wherever they send me!

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had these on a 110 some years back. They're good for cold-morning de-icing, and will evaporate the water off the surface after a few tens of minutes. Not so helpful on salt-spray-troubled motorways and gungey A-roads though: the spray dries out and leaves the mud/white salt residue behind - meaning the mirrors are even less useful than when merely covered with wet spray.

So eventually I rewired mine to the same supply as the rear-window rather than the ignition-switched live - that way you only get mirror-heat when you're really defrosting rather than all the time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes they do work. Super for defosting fist thing in morning, a pity no side window heats.

I've had two sets. Ploughman bros from York. Good in the original mittos

Now  I'm using a set from Mud Uk with the twin mirror set-up. I bought these http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/mud-blind-spot-mirror.html with these http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/defender-heated-mirror-elements.html Good for drying off rain as well

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/18/2018 at 10:34 PM, Bowie69 said:

Use 'site:lr4x4.com heated mirrors' in a Google search

Thank you, all, for your input, and specially for the format for the Google search.  Getting that right in future should save me having to ask "simple" directions.  I'v now got a couple of write-ups so I should be able to sort something out, which, with side window demisters, will help a lot on cold mornings.  Not too bad today, only -12 Deg C when I got up.

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I fitted the element type to my 109, and they work well.  I got some matting based pads from Mudstuff.co.uk for Helena's 90 and they were far better.  Theyre trimable, and don't have elements to break.  They also give more even heat, and more of it.  Best I've seen on the market.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those look like the type of mats that Mudstuff sell.  Excellent items.  

I drilled the arm for the feed wire in the same way, running it up inside the door hinge and through the door seal lip gap between screen frame and bulkhead, secured by the back edge of the door seal.  They were spliced into the rear screen circuit and didn't blow the standard rated fuse, so it's safe to do.  he only difference with my fit was that I sanded the pivot ball and connected the earth from the pads to the bolt that tightens the pivot clamp, so the arm acts as the earth through the door hinges and bolts.  A lot of grease was added to the pivots on reassembly to prevent any corrosion.  So, I only had one wire out to each mirror to deal with, making the drilled holes smaller and the wire easier to conceal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 19/02/2018 at 12:31 PM, Tanuki said:

Not so helpful on salt-spray-troubled motorways and gungey A-roads though: the spray dries out and leaves the mud/white salt residue behind - meaning the mirrors are even less useful than when merely covered with wet spray.

I would echo this point - on jaunts up the M6 and M1 this year I had to stop and clean them.  I was slightly disappointed by the time they take to warm-up (MudStuff) but since I bought 2 sets, I'll still be fitting them to my 110 as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 06/03/2018 at 2:08 AM, Oakmaster said:

Good point - I should check, thanks. 

Test the voltage at the positive terminal of the pad with the pad fully connected, not at the terminal with the pad disconnected - I have been led a merry dance finding electrical issues in the past where a poor contact (corroded terminal) was allowing some small amount of conductivity but with high resistance, so with the load disconnected it read 12v, but on load the voltage at the device (horn) was insufficient.  It's a bit like a tap with a blocked pipe - with the tap closed, the water pressure is full, but open the tap and the pressure after the blockage drops as the post-blockage water escapes.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy