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series 3 brake pipes??


sixtwoeight

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I want to buy a complete set of new brake pipes in readiness for its mot. (once ive completed welding in the new half chassis)

Having searched there are a couple of suppliers doing the set for a fair price but there seems to be a change of the system in July 1980.  One of the suppliers lists pre july 1980 as single circuit and post july 1980 as dual circuit - is that correct? and possible unf to metric changes as well? 

Mines a may 1980 88", it has a dual circuit m/c on a servo. - this doesn't coincide with the above info.  I obviously want to get the correct set for lengths, no of pipes and thread size, so in your opinions what threads should I have?

I would say mine is all original as its been off the road for soooo long.

 Do I still order a pre july 1980 set?

Appreciate any information.

Edited by sixtwoeight
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Why not make them yourself ?

Flare tool is not expensive and you get to make the 100 % correct.

We did on several vehicles and it is just a matter of doing a few and it becomes quite easy..

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Get yourself a nice pipe cutter too - the ends have to be square to get a nice flare. You'll find it's actually quite an enjoyable job. Plain copper tube is lovely to work, copper nickel alloy is a little less free bending and slightly tougher to flare. 

Might be a good call before you start to establish whether you've got metric or imperial unions, so ordering up a single 10mm and 3/8 union to try in the holes is possibly wise. A 3/8 will fit into a 10mm hole, being 9.525mm, and just catch on the threads, but not well, so be wary of that one. 

One side of the master cylinder is probably bigger thread than the other to stop them getting mixed up. If memory serves, larger is 7/16, but still for the 3/16 pipe, where the normal ones are 3/8. I believe the PDWA valve also takes these. Again, assuming it's UNF.

You'll want to look up what type of flare is appropriate for the unions you've got  too. 

HTH :)

 

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A used Sykes Pickavant or other quality brand flaring tool will be nicer than a brand new cheapy one. Do a few practice runs on offcuts of pipe before doing the real thing. Allow yourself a little extra length, it's easy enough to tuck an ever-so-slightly-too-long pipe in but you can't stretch one that's too short (and it will fail!), plus if you muck an end up you've got a 2nd chance.

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2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

A used Sykes Pickavant or other quality brand flaring tool will be nicer than a brand new cheapy one. Do a few practice runs on offcuts of pipe before doing the real thing. Allow yourself a little extra length, it's easy enough to tuck an ever-so-slightly-too-long pipe in but you can't stretch one that's too short (and it will fail!), plus if you muck an end up you've got a 2nd chance.

It does seem the sykes pickavant flaring tool is the go to tool so il keep an eye out for one.  Cheers.

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Besides copper for brake pipes there's also an alloy called Cunifer. A small percentage of nickel is present in this, keeping it free from the green corrosion that might occur on 100% copper. Very pleasant material to work with, bends and flares nicely. The material of choice for those in the know since decades.

As for the flexible pipes, Goodridge makes a nice, affordable set specific for Land Rovers with braided stainless steel covers and teflon liners.

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There is no need to spend lots of money on a flaring tool. I have 3 flare tool sets, a Sykes one,a Snap on one and one of these ; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181063197795?ViewItem=&item=181063197795

I use it along with Kunifer  copper/nickle tubing. For that tubing the Ebay one produces the nicest flares easily, made some for a Ford Ranger just yesterday. The Snap on one is best in tight situations where I need to make flares on Range Rover Sports and D3/4's where the front to rear pipes need cutting halfway,(Steel pipe) and joining onto a Kunifer replacement for the back half. The almost new Sykes one does little work,except the deburring tool is quite good.

I make quite alot of brake pipes, always 50m of pipe in stock along with 50-100 pipe nuts, male/female.Not a favourite job,so I try to make it as easy as possible with good materials and tools.

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  • 1 month later...
On 3/21/2018 at 7:46 PM, sixtwoeight said:

Just to update, I splashed out and bought a decent flare tool and did it myself, easier than I thought so Thanks for the advice.

What brand did you buy? I'm facing into this job.

 

Thanks.

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I’ve had an old SP flaremaster 2 for longer than I can remember.

one important thing to remember is always use branded brake pipe such as Saville. I bought and the subsequently binned a few rolls of unbranded Kunifer pipe some years ago in a clearance sale, it would not flare , it would crumple up instead. Every roll of it was the same, I was questioning my sanity until I tried an off cut of saville tubing which flared perfectly

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