Driver Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 Had a few probs with starting lately,thinking of buying a booster pack. What do people recommend for a 2 1/4 diesel, S2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan_meakin Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 Perhaps save the money and solve the starting issue? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 In my experience, most of the Lithium Ion types (Amazon /Ebay) pretty poor and do not deliver a useful current when required - cold, flat batttery. My advice would be to make your own. The bare minimum is just a known good battery - and some jump leads. Even a small lead acid battery will out perform most of the bought ones. You could put the battery in a box to make the whole thing tidier - Chris Watts GBMud made a nice one. I have a LiFePO4 Golf cart battery I use - which I’m planning on putting in an Ammo box along with its charger. Fixing the problem is often easier said than done. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharp Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 I got the below about a year ago and I've been really impressed. Had wanted one for a while after deciding it would be about the same price as making a decent set of long jump leads. I used it as a sole means of starting a 2.5ltr petrol for about a week with a completely dead battery and it didn't struggle at all. Dead easy to use, put the plug in and clip to the battery and away you go. Supposedly it's big enough to start 8 litre diesels 60 times on one charge...I doubt that but it's nice knowing it's a bit over specc'd for what I would use it for. They all come with various charing ports for phones and stuff and the obligatory flashlight built into the body. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07125GSZQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 If you're having starting problems due to sluggish cranking, there are a limited number of issues that can cause it on something as simple as a Series vehicle. Dirty electrical connections are the most common issue, especially the earth strap from block to chassis. A bad battery that only holds a surface charge is a common suspect, followed by a failed alternator that doesn't charge a good battery. Next is a worn out starter motor, and last a bad solenoid for the starter circuit. An autoelectrical shop will be quite able to check your alternator and battery, and bypassing the solenoid with a heavy wire or screw driver will test that item, leaving only the starter motor as difficult to test without spending on replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Empower yourself for under £3: You can diagnose your battery + alternator and many other things besides. Always get a continuity buzzer feature for the extra 5p. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 This is my, now complete, 'Ex-box'. The inverter is only 300W continuous (pure Sine Wave) but seems to cope with 550W for 2 mins until it overheats & shuts down. It's enough to run most small things like laptop chargers or a grinder for a while anyway. Si 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevm Posted March 16, 2018 Share Posted March 16, 2018 Haven't you got the wrong sex of kettle socket/plug there?, looks a bit dodgy if there is 240v at those pins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted March 16, 2018 Share Posted March 16, 2018 1 hour ago, Kevm said: Haven't you got the wrong sex of kettle socket/plug there?, looks a bit dodgy if there is 240v at those pins That is the input, for charging the battery. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 Gold star for Red90. Slightly less gold star for KevM 😉 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 In my experience, the majority of starting problems are down to poor electrical connections. One of the biggest issues on LR's is using the chassis for the earth return on the starter. I would suggest running a heavy 25 or 35mm^2 cable from the battery -ve to one of the starter mounting bolts. Also replace the braided strap from the starter to the chassis, giving the studs a good wire-brushing. Cover all the connections in petroleum jelly before tightening which will give it long term protection from corrosion. This gives the starter and battery the best possible chance - and is a lot cheaper than either. Running a similar heavy earth from the Alternator to the battery also helps charging performance. A jump pack is still useful when all else has failed and you're going to be late for work! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 14 minutes ago, simonr said: In my experience, the majority of starting problems are down to poor electrical connections. One of the biggest issues on LR's is using the chassis for the earth return on the starter. I would suggest running a heavy 25 or 35mm^2 cable from the battery -ve to one of the starter mounting bolts. Also replace the braided strap from the starter to the chassis, giving the studs a good wire-brushing. Cover all the connections in petroleum jelly before tightening which will give it long term protection from corrosion. This gives the starter and battery the best possible chance - and is a lot cheaper than either. Running a similar heavy earth from the Alternator to the battery also helps charging performance. A jump pack is still useful when all else has failed and you're going to be late for work! Si Agreed. Stick a battery jump lead between the battery -ive and the starter mounting bolt. If cranking improves you know you’re looking in the right area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 Today my jump pack got used for the first time in anger. My friend’s Td5 90 Battery was too flat to start - combination of cold weather, possible glow plugs not working and not having been run in a while. It didn’t start immediately, but it certainly cranked enthusiastically! That’s why we suspect glow plugs. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevm Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Ok, that kettle socket is the input fairy-nuff. New question - you say cover the connector with petroleum jelly before tightening, but if you get grease/jelly between the surfaces wont that be an insulator? and degrade the connection? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Nope, used all the time, especially in telecoms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 3 hours ago, Kevm said: ... New question - you say cover the connector with petroleum jelly before tightening, but if you get grease/jelly between the surfaces wont that be an insulator? and degrade the connection? As Bowie69 says, there is a long history of use of petroleum jelly as described, but the 'why' is often ignored. Petroleum jelly has two attractive characteristics in this context. 1, It is very soft, so will easily squeeze out of gaps as the components are forced together, thus it doesn't remain trapped and insulate them. 2, It is inert, and doesn't react to or with any of the metals commonly used in electrical circuits. What happens in practice is that you spread PJ over the surfaces, including and nuts, screws, washer, and bolts used in the assembly. By making sure you give all surfaces a continuous coating (not just a big blob that you hope will get everywhere) you fill all the minor surface imperfections. As you tighten the connection the bulk of the PJ is forced out, allowing metal to metal contact, BUT the minor imperfections remain filled with PJ. This prevents water, or moisture laden air, from being trapped in these hollows, where the moisture would have reacted with the metals, forming the electrolyte of a battery, and thus causing electrolytic corrosion. The PJ, being electrically inert, doesn't form an electrolyte with the metals, so no corrosion takes place. Note that it's fairly easy to wash PJ off the outside of connections, so any connections subject to water spray should have a physical barrier to prevent spray impact. Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 5 hours ago, David Sparkes said: Petroleum jelly has two attractive characteristics in this context. 1, It is very soft, so will easily squeeze out of gaps as the components are forced together, thus it doesn't remain trapped and insulate them. 2, It is inert, and doesn't react to or with any of the metals commonly used in electrical circuits. 3. It is waterproof which not all greases are.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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