FridgeFreezer Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 Nope, D2, the bolts are spaced further apart and the sector shaft is supposedly stronger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 26, 2018 Share Posted June 26, 2018 Anyone care to offer some thoughts on the best fuel pump arrangements for the efi based on past experience? Won’t be used for serious off-roading so crazy angles not anticipated unless it all goes belly up 😐 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 26, 2018 Share Posted June 26, 2018 Reconfigured early RRC pump, if they don't bolt into your current tank it is easy to make them fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 26, 2018 Share Posted June 26, 2018 What Bowie said - RRC in-tank pump, for front tanks you may need to shorten it but it's easily done. They drop straight in to a lot of 110/130/RRC rear tanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 26, 2018 Share Posted June 26, 2018 1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said: What Bowie said - RRC in-tank pump, for front tanks you may need to shorten it but it's easily done. They drop straight in to a lot of 110/130/RRC rear tanks. Do I need to drill a hole for it in the top of the tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 26, 2018 Share Posted June 26, 2018 See FF's reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 26, 2018 Share Posted June 26, 2018 17 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said: Nope, D2, the bolts are spaced further apart and the sector shaft is supposedly stronger. I'd heard much the same. I prefer the Bosch unit, but the DII box is a better choice than the standard Def/RRC/D1 Adwest for certain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 26, 2018 Share Posted June 26, 2018 8 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said: What Bowie said - RRC in-tank pump, for front tanks you may need to shorten it but it's easily done. They drop straight in to a lot of 110/130/RRC rear tanks. Not sure if I’m misunderstanding something here but how does the RRC pump fit into the underseat tank of the SWB? In place of the sender? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 In case it’s of interest to anyone else, Heystee tell me their front disc brake kit will fit a Stage 1 axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 3 hours ago, Bigj66 said: In case it’s of interest to anyone else, Heystee tell me their front disc brake kit will fit a Stage 1 axle. I think it's more a question of whether that kit fits you credit card limit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 3 hours ago, Snagger said: I think it's more a question of whether that kit fits you credit card limit! Expensive yes, but I’d rather not take chances with brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 Well I managed to get some approximate measurements of the ZF and it looks at least like it should fit within the existing tunnel surround as the majority of the bell housing will be in the engine bay especially where the bell housing is widest. After the tapered bell housing the box itself is relatively tubular but height may be a factor. Again I won’t know for certain until I have the parts physically sat in front of me and I do anticipate there might be some adjustment required but in general it looks like it should work. With the engine forward, there is still clearance between the V8 sump and the front axle but some shimming may be required along with the usual oil filter repositioning. I also think it will be possible to extend the transfer lever rod to allow the lever to sit further forward in the tunnel away from the seat box, possibly where the existing gear lever is located. Some scalloping of crossmembers may or may not be needed for the prop or maybe the bolt on RRC gearbox crossmember could be used, who knows. I also have the thinner RRC propshaft here so that may help with clearances. If I can get shut of the steering relay then I might be able to get a larger rad across the top of the front crossmember with some modification to the sides of the front panel. I should really rename the thread SWB Auto shouldn’t I? 🤨 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 29, 2018 Share Posted June 29, 2018 I don't think you'll get width or height issues with the ZF - if an LT77 or R380 fits, then so should a ZF as it doesn't have a selector mechanism sitting above the gear shaft. The diameter of the gears on the shaft are probably bigger than the manual units, but the centreline is well below floor level, so I doubt you'll need to do much floor alteration. The auto-selector can be sited where it suits you, and the high/low selector for the BW can be done with the existing red high/low lever the same was as Discomikey and Ed Parrott did with their LT77/LT230 installations. I'm sure that at worst, you'd be looking at nothing more than widening the existing tunnel cover , and even then only at its narrower rear end. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 30, 2018 Share Posted June 30, 2018 Had a quick look under the Rangy earlier to see what the gearbox mounting arrangements were. Just two bolt on mounts to the chassis it seems. Presumably I would need to drill and tube the Series chassis to allow them to be undone and the box to be dropped which I’m not sure I could do if I was to weld the mounts to the chassis? How does it work with the R380 and LT 77 conversions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted July 8, 2018 Share Posted July 8, 2018 I have these unknown make of parabolics fitted to the vehicle but the rear, being just the tub with hardly any weight, is quite firm and unforgiving over bumps. I’ve read some threads where the third leaf has been removed to make the suspension more compliant and wondered if I can achieve this by taking out the bottom leaf? If I do, will I need to fit some sort of retainer to keep the remaining two leaves in line like the one already fitted to the bottom leaf in the picture? Failing that, who supplies soft springs? I won’t be towing or carrying weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 8, 2018 Share Posted July 8, 2018 They need replacing anyways, the top leaf is kinked...... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted July 8, 2018 Share Posted July 8, 2018 1 hour ago, Bowie69 said: They need replacing anyways, the top leaf is kinked...... No, they’re all like that, seems to be the way they’re made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan_meakin Posted July 8, 2018 Share Posted July 8, 2018 Mine are like that, too but not sure why. Also considering replacing mine but no idea what with yet. Far too many options for my liking!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted July 8, 2018 Share Posted July 8, 2018 Discovered that Heystee do a two leaf rear for SWB light load applications which I hadn’t realised so will probably take that route rather than split existing springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 Those kinked spring are buckled; that is not a designed bend in any of them. It could be that they have been overstressed or it could just be that they are poor quality, but they do need replacement. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 I've got a set of springs just like that with the kinks in all four. There's no way they buckled like that perfectly symmetrically on their own. It's likely a design feature to keep the leafs apart, I suspect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 Well, I stand corrected! I've not seen the top leafs bent that way before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 12, 2018 Share Posted July 12, 2018 When I first looked the link looked twisted, hence my comment, later photographs show them to be OK... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Is there any way to identify a stage 1axle over a standard one without disassembly to look at the CV joints? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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