Bowie69 Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 Yup, just re-drill the plates you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 News from Ashcrofts is that the series transfer box will bolt to the rear of the ZF using the LT230 adapter kit 👍 Without the need for an adapter between the gearbox and engine I need to try and find out what the overall length of that combo would be and whether the addition of the LT230 TB adapter to the Series TB will actually exceed the existing width of the BW TB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 That's good news! Like Bowie, also enjoying the thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 Just been out to take some proper measurements, hopefully will be of use to others in the future too. Series transfer box length (front to rear from rear of handbrake drum to gearbox flange): 270mm BW TB: 300mm Ashcroft LT230 adapter: 104mm ZF box: 670mm (ZF+BW = 970mm) V8 serpentine engine: 700mm Standard SWB Series Rear Propshaft: 530mm Engine-side bulkhead to standard radiator face: 750mm Interior bulkhead face to tub crossmember: 870mm putting the face of the handbrake drum hard up against the crossmember. Move engine forward by 100mm, trim slam panel and fit alternative radiator. 700mm from slam panel lip puts engine/gearbox flange joint forward of the bulkhead recess as indicated by the right hand face of the wooden stick and end of tape. Could move crossmember and tub front mounts rearward by 100mm to give clearance for handbrake drum removal subject to exhaust re-routing. Prop length would be reduced by 40-50mm. Could move axle rearward by 50mm to mitigate if needed. ZF transfer lever should align with transmission tunnel cover and shifter is on a cable so might fit to front edge of centre seat base. Only concern would be the height of the gearbox inside the standard tunnel as I think the auto might be taller than the standard manual. If I was to go down the LT230 adapter route then this will add another 70mm to the length compared to the BW TB making it even tighter and the H/L 4WD levers out of position. Would retaining the BW be that bad considering the diff ratio would be the same as the RRC that the engine and box would come from? If I was to disengage my FWH could I just remain in permanent 4wd? Still need to check front axle to sump clearance and radiator to steering relay or go P38 steering box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 Borg Warner is a lovely quiet box, if you go in this deep then you can always change diff ratios if you ever find it a problem, I doubt you would though. You can run full time 4wd with series ujs, they will cope fine, you can also run the BW with no front prop at all without side effects apart from things getting tail happy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 32 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: Borg Warner is a lovely quiet box, if you go in this deep then you can always change diff ratios if you ever find it a problem, I doubt you would though. You can run full time 4wd with series ujs, they will cope fine, you can also run the BW with no front prop at all without side effects apart from things getting tail happy Might be just as well as the front prop clearance to the crossmember might need looking at, I’ll need to check but I expect that the only way I will find out for sure if this will work despite all the theory and measuring, will be to get the engine and box sat on the Series chassis and then go from there. Would probably just do a mock up with the existing chassis and then if/when everything was in place, get a new galv chassis made to spec. Worst case is that I end up sticking with a manual box bolted to the engine, LT77 or R380 etc. Auto would be nice though 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 One more thing I will ask Ashcrofts is whether the BW can be converted to part time 4wd as the LT230 can with a suitable kit. You never know.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 1 hour ago, Bigj66 said: One more thing I will ask Ashcrofts is whether the BW can be converted to part time 4wd as the LT230 can with a suitable kit. You never know.... The brief answer was no🙄 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 No, you can't Honestly I don't think it an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 Sounds like the BW would be the best choice to me They do have a tendency to go weak in the viscous coupling when abused, but thats usually on much heavier vehicles and with upwards of 35" tyres, so I'm sure you'll be quite happy with it. It sure drives nice with much less 'clunking' than the lt230 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 I took the Rangy to my local restoration company today to try and get a second opinion on its condition and an indication of costs to restore the shell and repaint it. Doing it myself is not an option due to time and facility constraints not to mention competence 😐 a brush painted Softdash just wouldn’t do. Anyway, turned up to find the old bloke who had done previous high quality work to my Capri had retired and sold the business and the new owner was more focussed on service and repair rather than classic restoration, which is fair enough. There are other companies advertising but they are quite a bit further away from me and I won’t take a chance with a company I have no previous experience of. The Rangy MOT runs out in October and I’m pretty certain it won’t get through again so I need to make a call on this now given that the technical feasibility seems ok. Difficult decision this as I think the Softdash V8 Rangy is the best vehicle ever to come out of Solihull and I’m very conscious of its classic status so not one to be taken lightly but if it helps other enthusiasts keep their vehicles on the road then that will be some consolation. Again, worst case is that I find I can’t fit the auto box and revert to a standard V8 conversion modifying the bulkhead in the process. I’ll finish building the workshop and then make a start on stripping the Landrover down to its chassis whilst still running around in the Rangy for as long as I can. Idea would be to take the Rangy engine and box out as a single unit if possible but I’m not sure it is. Anyone know if it can be done by taking out the front panel? I’d rather keep the body on the rolling chassis as it will be easier to sell it on as a donor I think but without engine, box and diffs. I did consider using the axles too for the CV joints and brakes but they are a tad too wide for a Series I think and I’d hit my points allocation for a Q plate which I don’t want. A Heystee brake conversion front and rear will do the job and if a Stage 1 axle ever turned up then maybe that would be a future option. The Landrover will replace the Rangy as my daily although I use the term lightly as I usually just drive to the airport on a Monday and back on a Thursday or work from home so no great mileage involved work wise and there’s always the Capri as a fallback. I’ll sell the original hardtop and back door and restore the truck cab that I have here in storage. Tailgate is already fitted. I also need to learn how to weld and paint but hey, how hard can it be? 😬 Note to self: set up tents, cold beer and BBQ in the garden, invite forum members round with their spanners and complete the job in a weekend. Be just like the old days at Billing 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 Buy another V8 drive train and sell the soft dash complete to an enthusiast, that way everyone wins and you don't feel the guilt or the wrath of the rest of the forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 2 hours ago, Bowie69 said: Buy another V8 drive train and sell the soft dash complete to an enthusiast, that way everyone wins and you don't feel the guilt or the wrath of the rest of the forum. I hear what you are saying, I really do but if you look on the likes of EBay etc you can see that a good 3.9 SERP with known history is hard to come by these days. Yes there’s lots of V8s (mainly Thor engines) and late ZF boxes but the quality of them is questionable at best and having been there and done it, the last thing I want to do is to inherit and pay for someone else’s bodges. At least with mine I get access to all the ancillaries and looms that I can remove with care rather than dealing with scrapyard chopped stuff. The same arguement could also be used for the Series 3 as it’s all original and unmolested so the question is do I leave that as it is too, sat there all pretty but not turning a wheel because I have no practical use for a 2.25 on a day to day basis? Since I whipped the roof off and put the tailgate on I’ve never used it as much in the good weather (if your reading this thread in 2025, then this is the year we had some summer 😊) but even that has been only on the odd occasion as the Rangy is my primary vehicle. The idea behind fitting the six pot to the Series was to try and avoid having to modify the bulkhead of an original vehicle and provide me with an engine that would permit the use of the vehicle on a daily basis for both work and personal needs, (such as they are) hold it’s own in modern day traffic if you like. The Rangy would then have been sold, as you say to an enthusiast, but that was before I knew the extent of the work that will be required on it which has reduced its value. I can’t see anyone paying big money for the Rangy in its existing condition and so it’s value to me now lies in what it can offer me in parts to make a very good vehicle out of the Series and then it’s residual value as a donor vehicle that will allow other enthusiasts to keep theirs going. Some enthusiasts may argue that more vehicles will be saved from having access to difficult to source spares rather than saving just one vehicle so I can see an argument for and against. It really is a dilemma and finding the compromise is difficult. Happy as always to listen to advice, suggestions (and incur wrath 😉) from fellow enthusiasts. Thanks for the input to the thread 👍 it’s much appreciated. One thing I do know about these discussions is that they help people in a similar position make more informed decisions and so all opinions are welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 8, 2018 Share Posted June 8, 2018 If I’ve read it right then it seems the RRC has an electronic speedo fitted which would mean there won’t be a mechanical drive to interface with the Series speedo. Anyone overcome this problem before? I could fit an electronic speedo but then I’d lose the three warning lights and some of the character of the Series dash which I don’t want to do. Something independent like a GPS signal based unit could also be used but again I’d rather keep the dash as ‘clean’ as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 8, 2018 Share Posted June 8, 2018 The electronic speed drive out the transfer box just unbolts like any cable, and you bolt a defender cable in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 8, 2018 Share Posted June 8, 2018 If you're getting rid of the Softdash sans engine, let me know, I may just be dumb enough to buy it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 8, 2018 Share Posted June 8, 2018 56 minutes ago, elbekko said: If you're getting rid of the Softdash sans engine, let me know, I may just be dumb enough to buy it It would be without engine, box and diffs as well as related wiring, plumbing etc if I go down that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 8, 2018 Share Posted June 8, 2018 2 hours ago, Bowie69 said: The electronic speed drive out the transfer box just unbolts like any cable, and you bolt a defender cable in. Brilliant, thanks 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 8, 2018 Share Posted June 8, 2018 2 hours ago, Bigj66 said: It would be without engine, box and diffs as well as related wiring, plumbing etc if I go down that route. Don't worry, he's definitely still daft enough, in the nicest possible way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 8, 2018 Share Posted June 8, 2018 2 hours ago, Bigj66 said: It would be without engine, box and diffs as well as related wiring, plumbing etc if I go down that route. Let me know when you get that far, maybe I'll have come to my senses then... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 8, 2018 Share Posted June 8, 2018 2 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said: Don't worry, he's definitely still daft enough, in the nicest possible way! That is absolutely undisputable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 8, 2018 Share Posted June 8, 2018 5 hours ago, elbekko said: Let me know when you get that far, maybe I'll have come to my senses then... No worries 👍 maybe I will have too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 Another question, is the engine loom separate from the rest of the car wiring on a Rangy? By that I mean, apart from ignition supplies, fuel pump etc, can it generally be unplugged from the rest of the car and removed or is it fully integrated? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 Yes, removable, 5 wires.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 Apart from the obvious CV UJ design, are there any other differences between a coil sprung half shaft and a leaf sprung one besides length of the longer section? Is it possible to have a CV shaft shortened and the splines re-milled to fit a CV half shaft into a leaf sprung axle casing? Or are they a completely different design? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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