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Sealing cables from engine bay


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I hope you don't mind me tagging on this thread, my dads lost the grommet plates you have pictured above during his bulkhead change.  I've just found the price for new ones (£30 each!!) and can't really afford to spend that much.  Does anybody know the part number for the later td5 ones which are all rubber and just squeeze into the oval tubes behind?  Or does anyone have a completely different alternative?

 

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Back in the days when I played with rally-cars, some scrutineers were really rather obsessive about any holes in the 'firewalls' between the engine/boot-compartments and the driver-space.

"In a crash, burning petrol /hot oil/boiling coolant could run through...."

Significant gaps, process-holes etc. had to be plated over [25-gauge steel sheet and pop-rivets] and sealed, usually by sandwiching fireproof-resin-impregnated fibreglass mat behind the plate before the pop-rivets went in.

But sometimes gaps remained. It was quite normal therefore to take a packet of Blu-Tack along to scrutineering so if the scroot found a hole/crack/gap he disliked you could easily bung it up.

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Some of the grommets you are looking at are fitted when the loom is built, before any crimps and connectors are fitted. Therefore they are not a simple job to replace.

The one around the speedo cable normally comes pre-fitted over a new drive cable.

The heater control one should be accessible enough, although I have yet to find a source of that sized grommet.

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Ah but it's not superglue - it's like blu-tack that sets more like hard rubber. If you want it not to stick to something, you can rub vaseline or wrap it in something (cling film, masking tape, etc.) before sticking sugru in the gap to form a custom cable seal. They have a few tips / tricks like that on their website.

It's good stuff, I try to keep a pack or two in the toolbox. Only real problem is it has a short-ish shelf life.

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What about sikaflex or similar. It'd be a sod to get off if you ever need to, but chances are you wont be replacing the cables as they run through very often. Dispense a load of the stuff around the cables mould it to cover the holes and get in between the cables and let it set before you go for a drive and let the engine bay get hot. Any silicone type of sealant would probably do, but sikaflex would certainly stick to everything and seal the hole.

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On 3/19/2018 at 9:16 AM, mad_pete said:

You could try a breakers. I’ll check I might have a spare one from my bulkhead change you could have. Did you need both ? I think I only have one but that’s would a start.

I appreciate the offer but i've just emailed a breaker asking about a number of parts and he can do both for a very reasonable price so i think i'm all sorted.  Thanks anyway.

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