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Mog 404 axles


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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Anderzander said:

How are you going to join them Stephen ? 

Cast iron welding the idea being to build it up and grind it back so ultimately it will look like it hasn't been shortened, the welding process will take a long time as I will need to tack it and then v back the smaller section so I can weld to the inside edge, then grind back the tacked section to do the same and then finish off with a bit of internal grinding and weld up. Ages because you are looking at a max of 15mm to 25mm long welds all stress relieved with a chipping hammer or needle gun regards Stephen

Edited by Stellaghost
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25 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

Unfortunately yes regards Stephen

I could 3d print you a copy in plastic, that could be used to cast a new one?

Might need one of the adults to tell me how i model the gear accurately as i don't know anythign about tooth profiles.

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I came across this recently: 

Suggest you may need something sturdier depending on what the gear actually does, but the tool he uses in it to generate the gear looks dead simple.

Tooth form doesn't change much between applications, there's only really one that really works well!

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Posted (edited)
49 minutes ago, MECCANO said:

I could 3d print you a copy in plastic, that could be used to cast a new one?

Might need one of the adults to tell me how i model the gear accurately as i don't know anythign about tooth profiles.

Very generous of you, but not to worry I have some gears coming in the next couple of days that will need boring out and a keyway put in,after that a bit tweeking and hopefully sorted. For the life of me I cannot track down some original gears regards Stephen

Edited by Stellaghost
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Posted (edited)

Just shout if you change your mind. The printer does all the hard work, i just need to chuck a model together and press go, sacrifice a goat and pray to gods the print doesnt fail!

Edited by MECCANO
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19 minutes ago, MECCANO said:

Just shout if you change your mind. The printer does all the hard work, i just need to chuck a model together and press go, sacrifice a goat and pray to gods the print doesnt fail!

Bit like my milling regards Stephen

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8 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

Cast iron welding the idea being to build it up and grind it back so ultimately it will look like it hasn't been shortened, the welding process will take a long time as I will need to tack it and then v back the smaller section so I can weld to the inside edge, then grind back the tacked section to do the same and then finish off with a bit of internal grinding and weld up. Ages because you are looking at a max of 15mm to 25mm long welds all stress relieved with a chipping hammer or needle gun regards Stephen

Wouldn't it be much easier to just make an intermediate plate both bits bolt to? That extra 10mm or so won't hurt much I'd think. Not as factory looking then though...

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7 minutes ago, elbekko said:

 That extra 10mm or so won't hurt much I'd think. 

What !!!!!!!!! How very dare you lol when I've been trying to save mms.

Joking aside, I could put a plate there but it's another avenue to leak oil and for bolts to come loose I also thing the diff casing has the potential to be weak in that area with a bolt plate. So I'm going to stick with welding and hopefully a finished factory look regards Stephen  

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It's awesome to see the relentless progress on this. The broken mill gears would be a major setback for many that hardly even slowed you down, great stuff!!
I don't know if the gently gently approach is the best way forwards to welding that diff head? I would likely do the weld prep, clamp it with a big bolt through the pinion hole, get both halves red hot and fire up the welder whilst it's all still hot by tacking it with numerous small tacks then give it death for the root run so you're welding right through the tacks and pein it afterwards with a blunt chisel and weld, pein, cap and pein again whilst it's all still hot. let it cool and see what shape it is in the morning. 

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On 5/28/2021 at 11:47 PM, Jamie_grieve said:

 let it cool and see what shape it is in the morning. 

This I have concerns about which is why I have aquired some 5" diameter steel bar just in case I need to machine a flanged end. However I have been doing a bit of research and will try welding diff case with Eutectic Castolin 4044 rods, this allows the the welding process to stay below 100 degrees and apparently they are excellent rods. Watch this space and we will see how I get on fingers crossed regards Stephen

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