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Vee blocks arrived today so I can set up to do splines once finished welding and they're still too bloody tall

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For those of you with weak stomachs dont read on

 

Nothing for it but to shave them and into the milling machine they go regards Stephen 20210605_180213.thumb.jpg.b0d885fbdef6a93dddbc96a40de2d589.jpg

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5 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

Are you doing one at a time to see how it goes or doing them side by side to split the heat/time?

The other one is still in the front axle at the moment Ross, front prop is longer, will I need to modify, I dont know time will tell but if this one turns out like I'm hoping then yes I will most likely modify the front  as well

Only not doing them side by side so I only screw up one diff if it doesn't work regards Stephen 

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As an enthusiastic "armchair welder" why are you doing it in stages as opposed to bunging it in Madame's oven to preheat and then getting stuck in and finishing it?

I understand your welding it in different paces to mitigate cracking and stresses by not building up too much heat, but why not dive in and get it done?

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2 minutes ago, JohnnoK said:

As an enthusiastic "armchair welder" why are you doing it in stages as opposed to bunging it in Madame's oven to preheat and then getting stuck in and finishing it?

I understand your welding it in different paces to mitigate cracking and stresses by not building up too much heat, but why not dive in and get it done?

Because there is two schools of thought, one hot and one cold I'm going with cold as I can check easily and constantly if I just go for it I'm totally screwed if the pinion then has tight spots at the moment slow and steady seems to be working regards Stephen 

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3 hours ago, JohnnoK said:

As an enthusiastic "armchair welder" why are you doing it in stages as opposed to bunging it in Madame's oven to preheat and then getting stuck in and finishing it?

I understand your welding it in different paces to mitigate cracking and stresses by not building up too much heat, but why not dive in and get it done?

 

3 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

Because there is two schools of thought, one hot and one cold I'm going with cold as I can check easily and constantly if I just go for it I'm totally screwed if the pinion then has tight spots at the moment slow and steady seems to be working regards Stephen 

Forgot to add even hot you can't just crack on and get it done, it can only be done in short runs ie: the max run length is 10x the diameter of rod you are using so 3.2 mm rods equates to a max run of 32mm which has to be stress relieved by piening, every run so a lot slower than other arc welding regards Stephen

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Weld, pine, wire brush  reposition weld  pine  wire brush reposition you get the idea. Bouts of welding over the last couple of days, progress but slow 

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Its gonna take a wee while but on the positive no cracking and pinion turns easily, not that I check it as frequently now, I think there is enough weld now that it's not going to shift position regards Stephen 

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1 hour ago, Anderzander said:

Good progress and patience 🙂 

What’s the plan for it post welding?  and once all done is everything in place to bolt it to the light weight and get some props made ? 

Post welding = paint and gaskets to finish back axle and then wrap it up until I'm ready to fit it.

Then spend a couple of months doing the front axle.

nothing ready on lightweight to receive axles as yet, but when both axles finished the bodywork will come off to start on axle fitting, all mounting points will need strengthening / upgrading for the very heavy axles.

props are a wee while away yet but once ready I'll make some regards Stephen

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26 minutes ago, elbekko said:

That's a very nice result!Fingers crossed it doesn't crack in half first trip out :ph34r:

 

Thanks

It shouldn't I've been pretty meticulous in welding it up and the dye pen results were encouraging, however I am looking at making some form of custom diff guard to protect from knocks and give additional strength regards Stephen

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