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Posted (edited)

So managed to do a bit on the axles or more correctly the diffs today due to trying to put the 404's under a lightweight I need to create distance between gearbox and diffs for the prop shafts due to 404's being 8" longer from diff centre to flange so started machining seal carrier20200525_132905.thumb.jpg.03a8a3ebbbb7c529471350ee8f80ede2.jpg20200525_135639.thumb.jpg.59657cd0ba41c17c078b9aea72fdecb7.jpg

end result regards Stephen 

 

Edited by Stellaghost
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I seem to have issues putting up more than 3 or 4 pictures whilst some posts have several don't know how you do this but never mind 

So machined prop flange

20200525_152618.thumb.jpg.a93a0e88049a1d2293db1502510d0154.jpg

Took 18mm of it20200525_155211.thumb.jpg.b326d8f15c5e0996568e8a2e11e9a207.jpg

Now when built up I can shorten diff splined shaft by 28mm or just over an inch in old money 20200525_155423.thumb.jpg.a99398ba0fe2755b93e3bfd57714b05d.jpg

Doesn't sound a lot but I need every bit I can get with trying to put the 404's under a short wheelbase regards Stephen 

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Yes I probably could take it further this is just 1st stab one of the issues is the threaded hole for the grub screw to tighten onto pinion shaft will damage the seal if I go further at the moment I am looking at drilling and tapping the pinion shaft to hold the flange in position that would allow me to weld grub screw hole up and machine down for a smooth seal surface and move it in another 20mm are the pull through studs you mention the same as landrover wheel hub bolts regards Stephen 

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If you look at the photo there is no much scope to move it in further without filling in the grub screw hole  the seal comes up to where the red line of seal grease is so about another 5mm before seal clashes with hole regards Stephen 

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19 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

20200525_135639.thumb.jpg.59657cd0ba41c17c078b9aea72fdecb7.jpg

That looks awfully thick for what appears to be just a seal holder? Could you take some thickness out of that and win another 20mm?

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17 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

I was meaning you can fill it in and redrill closer to the flange.

I'm an idiot yes I get what you mean I could mill a slight flat into the radius at the bottom of the flange drill and tap out I didn't include the photo on my last post so here it is regards Stephen 

20200526_112244.jpg

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Posted (edited)
19 minutes ago, elbekko said:

That looks awfully thick for what appears to be just a seal holder? Could you take some thickness out of that and win another 20mm?

Afraid not as it has to allow for locking nuts on pinion shaft see photo regards Stephen 

20200526_120117.jpg

Edited by Stellaghost
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I could but we will see once I start fitting axles and props become a real issue I am slightly concerned that flange is located with a single grub screw and no indentation on pinion shaft as yet to locate  I may well bolt it on landrover style yet regards Stephen 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Started making spring mounts today naturally the centre line would be where it causes inconvenience  

So some scrap 4" box section 1/4" thick

20200611_150519.thumb.jpg.1f862c17e02dfe022a7eac8a9b3eb2f9.jpg

Mount rough cut out

20200611_152834.thumb.jpg.b2f91d080b82a69c588594311da52d12.jpg

Cleaned up and drilled

20200611_163651.thumb.jpg.69bdaac877bc5f6a1b6d7709269acc0a.jpg

Ready for welding at some point only another 3 to make regards Stephen 

20200611_163717.thumb.jpg.e0f9b56846ca6ffe9dc0dbb8c1cb5ed3.jpg

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Posted (edited)

A question for you esteemed gentlemen out there do you think  D1 front radius arms will be strong enough to use as rear trailing arms minus the second joint after the chalk line with my portal axle conversion regards Stephen 

20200613_193700.jpg

Edited by Stellaghost
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Got to be stronger than stock LR trailing arms.

But enough for portals.... Hmm maybe?

 

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I'm considering adding additional bracing to strengthen even further after I've  cranked the arms they certainly seem more substantial than the rear trailing arms and yes the portals are bigger in every way but I don't have the mega weight of a unimog body and chassis above acting on them either just thought I'd throw it out there ultimately I may look at 4 link but considering a house move I would prefer to get them under the vehicle traditionally to save some time  at the moment regards Stephen 

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We used those arms on Mouse with Volvo portals, Jez did bend one into a nice Z-shape by hitting a tree at some speed but aside from that they're pretty damn strong.

It's not the weight of the body though - it's the 300kg of axle and 100kg of wheels and tyres flapping round on the ends that stresses it, a large tyre on a portal box has a hell of a lot of leverage compared to a piddly little 35" on a straight Land Rover axle.

Have you checked out Dirtydiesel's G-Wagen on 404's? He's posted a few other threads of other mog'd trucks he's built or been involved with over the years, sadly no longer posts here though :(

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Made the bump stop bits for the axle tube , hydraulics a great invention , a word of advice clamp it I didn't today and it hurts when a slitting disc bites stay safe guys regards Stephen 

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