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Nice job on the bump stop seat, poor job on the hand -not nearly enough blood, but then the angry grinder injuries do tend to melt the skin together quite well.

Make sure it is very clean, last thing you want is an A&E trip in the middle of a pandemic because of cellulitis. 

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Posted (edited)

Aye the melting thing is quite handy (methinks you have prior experience )in a sick way don't worry about the cleaning my good lady is a nurse and believe me she will not feel the pain regards Stephen

Edited by Stellaghost
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Some progress on the trailing arm to axle mounts nothing to be welded as yet because I may have diff angle to reposition regards Stephen 20200625_080942.thumb.jpg.55852e6bb6bd4f7bb376714bb349eca2.jpg20200625_082530.thumb.jpg.26757d299836e137d02d0586072f90b7.jpg20200625_081747.thumb.jpg.598709469d3df006cae5e4effb8c2145.jpg20200625_092632.thumb.jpg.c5319e6a57d32a837c7e6413bc8e34de.jpg20200625_093142.thumb.jpg.3bdcefb5f2bf78bb50dd94905e3db36d.jpg20200625_095822.thumb.jpg.48b139b0727f0c6e52696264aaa9abed.jpg20200625_095808.thumb.jpg.96dc97a7ff0d3603b7326f124c6299d3.jpg

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20200625_112631.thumb.jpg.9985243d15474e654e05345eb3635421.jpg20200625_113729.thumb.jpg.860573d0bb8e006c6595207e952d9e48.jpg20200625_113846.thumb.jpg.248f0d72efc8904296ccef0d8f6decf4.jpg20200625_114014.thumb.jpg.444e21c6dd7322dc733c45d32ed95bcb.jpg20200625_123447.thumb.jpg.49b0515d57c248b2f4a92c8e11196c75.jpg20200625_123456.thumb.jpg.10eb410523c904c74710671a6aa69ab8.jpg20200625_123515.thumb.jpg.537ed450be59f82d76f0c22f362fef48.jpgSome bracing made up and welded on just to get rid of any chance of flex on the radius arm mounts regards Stephen 

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Looking good !

hope to see it late this year in the metal

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Propshaft lengths and diff pinion angles ?? My Lightweight front prop is 30" with an LT77 box and my rear prop is 20" with diff tilted to assist with the angles. Mog diff is 9" longer ( 8" with pinion mods. So my thoughts are that a front prop length of 22" will be ok (diff angle about 13 degrees) but 12" for the rear prop is a joke.I am looking to try and get the same length prop at the rear which means increasing wheel base by 7" So my question is do these prop lengths sound ok and what would be a reasonable tilt angle for the mog diffs bearing in mind that the rear diff angle at present is 4.8 degrees Thanks in advance regards Stephen

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Couple of additional questions mainly to those that have or had a portal axle conversion, did any of you find the need to fit some form of hydro assist for the steering and secondly what did you use for an a frame ball joint if you went that route I've been looking at  G Lewis and terracotta side angle ones but are they strong enough ta  very much Stephen

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I run D2 PAS and 37x1250's and have never found it wanting - 1st trip out the PAS wasn't plumbed, that was harder going but still not awful by Series standards.

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Cheers John I have power steering but have read a few articles that say steering overheats with portals so I thought I'd ask just checking out for any possible future costs regards Stephen

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1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:

Cheers John I have power steering but have read a few articles that say steering overheats with portals so I thought I'd ask just checking out for any possible future costs regards Stephen

When I built my truck the experts said the portal gears would overheat and explode above 50mph, don't believe everything you read on the internet ;)

I dare say if worked hard with big fat tyres it's possible to overheat it, but a simple loop of steel pipe in the return dumps a surprising amount of heat, and a larger reservoir can also help for cheap. I'd run it and see, stick a temperature label on it if you're worried.

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Cheers John not at all worried because what doesn't work will be made to work that's how I  tend to tackle things  just thought I would tap in to the vast amount of collective knowledge that is LR4x4 to assist with thought process my lightweight is my toy and only does longer  mileage in the winter if weather is bad appreciate your input regards Stephen 

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I feel empty without portals, keep up the slog.

Is a d2 setup much better over stock defender, im guessing the d2 has a better swing?

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58 minutes ago, MECCANO said:

I feel empty without portals

What were your portals under regards Stephen 

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20 hours ago, MECCANO said:

Is a d2 setup much better over stock defender, im guessing the d2 has a better swing?

Reason for fitting it was (I was told) the D2 box doesn't have a weak spot in the sector shaft like the regular 4-bolt etc... touch wood it's been incredibly reliable, was fitted new/recon in 2006/7 and still going strong with zero leaks.

The D2 box is a unique bolt pattern on the chassis though (unlike the stock coiler 3/4/6 bolt boxes), and I've seen a lot of people use P38 boxes mounted outside the chassis rail as another option, but no experience of those.

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Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

What were your portals under regards Stephen 

Unfortunately never had the luck of owning them.  Relistically i can only see unimog axles as an option, but the gearing is just a bit low for my everyday use between playdays. Unless some c303's mistically cross my path at a resonable price.

I'll have to live the dream through others!

Edited by MECCANO

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Posted (edited)
39 minutes ago, MECCANO said:

 

I'll have to live the dream through others!

I know the feeling I dreamed about them for years but the reality is its costly and time consuming even when you can do most of the work yourself, I was fortunate I was looking at a set (which I bought ) on ebay and my wife said why don't you buy them" WHAT DID YOU SAY"So from her perspective she was spending a lot of money yearly doing dog agility and said she would feel better if I spent an equivalent amount on something I wanted to do the rest is history So I wish you luck with your dream but you can hitch a ride with mine in the meantime regards Stephen

Edited by Stellaghost
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Portals are a curse - no-one will ever be impressed that you made it through something ever again!

Drive it in a stock Series or Freelander you look like a driving god :lol:

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No going back now axle ends cut off so I can reposition the diff angle was at 4.8 degrees  probably going to be changed to around 13/15 degrees to help with prop shaft angles need to turn a couple of dollys up to help with realignment  but that's tomorrow as at work tonight regards Stephen 20200630_112535.thumb.jpg.dccf637fa0154eb35b7ba3f013a70c93.jpg20200630_115933.thumb.jpg.ad2dea62e2659d75283fa42e7e49214f.jpg20200630_123437.thumb.jpg.816c9c23b506ba9b5b97654428889b9d.jpg20200630_123458.thumb.jpg.4449ab6233e44a7c007d763489f7b47a.jpg20200630_125628.thumb.jpg.44e7beba2a616efbf0e49af12ba6e65c.jpg

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Is that double-skinned 6mm thick axle tubes? Got to love Ze Germans for engineering! Makes my Volvos look very lightweight :lol:

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It certainly is when I swap axle tubes on the front I will be doing things slightly differently  pleased I made the jig to keep everything plumb for when I start welding up regards Stephen 

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Are you narrowing the rear, or just clocking it for better prop alignment?

Whats the plan with the front,  are you flipping the case of cutting each side off the housing and swapping over?

I guessing no ones tried to lighten te these axle by removing the inner tube. probably more hassel than its worth.

i did wonder  as an alternative to flipping  the case upside down if you coud cut the diff pan off, machine the front face to take the diff, and weld a new pan on the old back.

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13 minutes ago, MECCANO said:

Are you narrowing the rear, or just clocking it for better prop alignment?

At the moment just clocking for better prop alignment, initially was going to narrow but at present I'm only about 3 inches wider each side as my unimog / landrover rim conversion has pulled the track in a bit so going to see how it goes and if too wide will shorten at a later date

Whats the plan with the front,  are you flipping the case of cutting each side off the housing and swapping over?

At present swapping the tubes I know the axle flip is the tried and tested route but you would lose a bit of ground clearance and just would'nt look right in my head 

I guessing no ones tried to lighten te these axle by removing the inner tube. probably more hassel than its worth.

I'm not really taking any weight loss into consideration other than binning the drums for disc's

i did wonder  as an alternative to flipping  the case upside down if you coud cut the diff pan off, machine the front face to take the diff, and weld a new pan on the old back.

I guess you could look at that but will have to cut tubes regardless for prop alignment so sticking with swapping at the moment

Regards Stephen

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Posted (edited)

So made some dollys to knock into the axle tube to keep alignment in check20200701_075158.thumb.jpg.d7179bbbc620520801d3e7c6a11efcc9.jpg20200701_102953.thumb.jpg.93ce64378fd6060049e2a6f7144765a7.jpg20200701_103002.thumb.jpg.8846cdcb5061b53666bb82983dc4cf4e.jpg20200701_105642.thumb.jpg.179ede033523ac7561960615a89133cc.jpg

then tacked up and root welded

20200701_120220.thumb.jpg.e188c8e95798840e3fb5c222e020fe33.jpg

Welded up internally and then finished welding outside

20200701_123105.thumb.jpg.c58e97c31fac3d62ae79911c6401ecc1.jpg20200701_123641.thumb.jpg.beb4ce30dc0df2fb82a95b63c72a01fc.jpg

I also discovered I'm not as strong as I used to be net result mog axle and jig 1 battery charger 0 regards Stephen 

20200701_114808.thumb.jpg.b62ef539aad325870921002934db5d1b.jpg

Edited by Stellaghost

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That's quite comical, if you don't mind me saying...

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