gkd000 Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 I now in a worse position than my original post (some weeks ago). I had to have my fob repaired as the signal was intermittent. Now fob appears fine (good strong, consistent LED). The problem is this: 1) When I re-attached the car battery (I had disconnected it) there was a central locking sound (not sure if it was locking or unlocking) 2) Now I can't sync the key to get the CL working 3) The passenger door is now locked and can't be opened by either handle (inside or outside) 4) I can unlock the driver's door with the key manually and the two rear doors manually but can't open the tailgate or passenger door I am assuming this may be down to a failed driver's door lock (which I had replaced with a used unit) but not convinced I am right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VOUGE50 Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 Hi the best thing is to buy something like lynx diagnostic as you can check and operate each indic lock and sync your fob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 I feel your pain, just coming to the end of a mamoth, eka code lockout/scrambled becm saga (see the other post). if you can find some half decent ones the late mgf/mgtf ones off ebay are the same parts from rover group. Taking it you have no other issues, like the engine immobilised or failing to crank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 19 hours ago, gkd000 said: 1) When I re-attached the car battery (I had disconnected it) there was a central locking sound (not sure if it was locking or unlocking) That happens. 19 hours ago, gkd000 said: 2) Now I can't sync the key to get the CL working Key in the driver's door lock, lock/unlock while holding the lock button. 19 hours ago, gkd000 said: 3) The passenger door is now locked and can't be opened by either handle (inside or outside) 4) I can unlock the driver's door with the key manually and the two rear doors manually but can't open the tailgate or passenger door Tailgate is linked to the passenger door. Sounds like you have an issue with the microswitches most of all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gkd000 Posted March 25, 2018 Author Share Posted March 25, 2018 Thanks for the responses. I have tried the door lock sync procedure a few times but no joy. I am considering a Nanocom to keep on top of these "traits" - But is a lot of money for a car that only cost me about twice the price of the Nanocom! - Are there cheaper alternatives to the Nanocom (I will research the Lynx hadbn't heard of that before?) I have already considered getting the MGF locks new as they are cheaper than the LR ones - is this a good idea and do you know the correct part there seems to be a few? The car is drive-able as is but won't get through an MOT with stuck locks, so need to sort them before I can actually get it on the road. I bought as a project so not to worried about doing the work etc (in fact I enjoy the work) as have other cars, but would be nice to be able to get it legal and use it. It is a frustrating beast though.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gkd000 Posted March 25, 2018 Author Share Posted March 25, 2018 Part solved. There was an issue with driver's side lock, the window mechanism had caught and torn one of the wires. Got it to work, but now key seems to lose sync. I can get round it by using EKA, but will need to investigate what is stopping proper key sync. Weirdly it has worked a couple of times but seems to lose sync and I have to revert to EKA? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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