Jimsky Korsokov Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 I'm going to fit Anti roll / sway bars front and back to my Defender some time in the future. Whilst fitting a new short leg rear chassis cross member, because the tank guard and tank were removed I thought I'd just check the ARB mounting 10mm head bolts would undo ..... they all sheared off (lucky I checked).I've ground them out now but have some questions I'm hoping you can help me with:1. Is it essential to weld on new captive nuts (I can't remember if there is access enough for getting a spanner in behind once the fuel tank and guard is back in place?2. Does anyone do a nice tapped stainless backplate and bolt combo (like the ones you can get for fitting the front bumper with stainless bolts)3. Is the ease of captive nuts essential if the ARB flips over?Ideally I'd like a solution that enables the use of Stainless Steel nuts and bolts,Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 are we talking 90 or 110 here ?? Front & Rear Anti roll bar chassis mounts bushes & clamps are all bolted with bolts & nuts. no captive nuts, bolt heads face down. never seen any pre made nut plates for the anti roll bar location, no reason why you can't make some or have some made. I used stainless bolts/nuts for my 110's rear bar after my chassis change. never known my rear bar to 'flip' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 On the 90 td5 the RARB mounts are bolted onto the rear tank cradle bracket with captive nuts, I don't think you'll get to them with the tank in place. I wouldn't weld that close to a plastic tank either... The tank is quite a snug fit between the chassis legs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimsky Korsokov Posted March 25, 2018 Author Share Posted March 25, 2018 Hi, I really appreciate the info and pictures. My tank is out so I could get in there and weld some nuts on. Alternative could be to drop a stainless bolt down from the top and put a nut and spacer under the bracket - I’m assuming here I need a 1” spacer because I have a 2” lift. odd combo I know, but doing more road miles now but still hanging on to the idea of OR adventures in the future. Figure removing ARBs is easier than removing / reinstalling lift. thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Yes 1" spacers are recommended on a 2" lift. You could drill out and fit a stainless rivnut, dropping a bolt from the top is fine but would necessitate tank removal to do the bushes or at the very least removing the tank support to slot a spanner in to hold the bolt from turning. Another option would to have the spacers tapped to allow you to bolt them in place from the tank side (suitably thread locked) and then mount the ARB brackets into the other end of the tapped spacer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimsky Korsokov Posted March 26, 2018 Author Share Posted March 26, 2018 Thanks for confirming this - I'll buy the ARB kit and hand the brackets over to a fabricator to make me up a spacer system that works for everything. Appreciate the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 If the tank is out it’s easy just to weld new nuts to the top side of the bracket. (They are m8 not m10 btw) Richards chassis don’t bother with captive nuts, you can access the mounting position with the tank fitted anyway so they just use nuts and bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimsky Korsokov Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share Posted March 27, 2018 Thanks - that's good to know. ARBs ordered - weather improving - rear cross member in position - looking good for the summer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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