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It is worse when going up the gears 1st and 2nd but does do it coming down but very rare does it do it above 2nd . Box was new from Ashcroft but the it stood for 12months or so before constant use . Any way to cure it Nick .

Big cream cake when I see you western :D .

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Several mechanics have told me they replaced crunching gear boxes with high end recon units to find the new unit the same or worse.  It may be the reconditioner, it may be that new baulk rings are not made correctly...

Oil choice makes a big difference.  I find the problem far less of an issue with MTF94 instead of the original ATF Dextron III, and the Gucci Difflock stuff is reputed to be better still.  It's very expensive, though.  I plan to rebuild my unit myself and add an oil cooler - LR fit them to export models, but not most UK vehicles (or EU, I think).  It should help me, but seemingly not you, if your problem happens cold.  I'd recommend the MTF, as a first fix, though.

It is also plausible, though less likely, that it is something to do with the temperature of the clutch or spigot bearing, which could be dragging.  I don't think the clutch plates would be at fault, as they're more likely to bind when hot, but if the spigot bush is tight, then it would expand with the crank when hot and free-off from the slightly cooler gearbox pinion.  Replacing the clutch fluid may also help, but again, I'd expect any issue with that to show up when hot, not cold.

Check that the slave cylinder's internal spring is intact.  It lightly presses the piston out so that the slack in the push rod, fork and release bearing is taken up, ensuring that the hydraulic void is maximised.  If the spring is broken, then the slack can develop but be masked when the fluid warms up and expands.  A blocked breather int he master cylinder reservoir cap could have a similar effect.

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Cheers Nick , will check the vacuum when the kit arrives see what that comes up with , that's a point what sort of readings should I get on the gauge if the vacuum pump is ok and free from leaks ? Then if that's ok I've already got a master cylinder ,so will get a slave cylinder and replace the lot fitting my new cut down push rod ( as suggested by western ) from a 300tdi one if needed .

cheers Ian

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I didn't actually say what the problem was Red90 that's my fault , I presumed that it was a vacuum fault due to it being intermitant and having no leaks . I'm using MTF 94 in the box , that's what it said to use . I think that I may have used the wrong push rod in the slave cylinder as Ralph pointed out to me in an earlier post .

cheers Ian

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22 hours ago, Red90 said:

Your new description sounds nothing like a vacuum issue.  If you lose vacuum, the pedal will become "normal" instead of light.  This has zero to do with shifting quality.  What fluid are you using in the gearbox?

My thoughts exactly.  I'm not confident in the push rod theory,either, as that'd be likely to be a consistent rather than intermittent or conditional occurrence.

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10 minutes ago, ianmayco68 said:

Just a thought but read in another post that the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder needs to be at the top , if it were at the bottom would that cause a problem ?

Yes, cos it wouldn't bleed all the air out, & any air in the system would be trapped, 

bleed screw always at the highest possible point. 

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Ralph did a nice little slave bleed mod that makes life a bit easier, but yes, the bleed needs to be up top and I find I need to do the bleeding with the vehicle nose up slope to get the air bubbles in the right place.

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Hi all , well I've been a numpty :blush: , have got the bleed nipple at the bottom . I know daft bugger but I'm still new to this game and I've learned something new today , so as I've ordered a new slave cylinder and I've got a new master going to wait till Saturday and fit all the new bits and bleed it then I can also check the operating rod length .

cheers Ian

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59 minutes ago, ianmayco68 said:

Hi all , well I've been a numpty :blush: , have got the bleed nipple at the bottom . I know daft bugger but I'm still new to this game and I've learned something new today , so as I've ordered a new slave cylinder and I've got a new master going to wait till Saturday and fit all the new bits and bleed it then I can also check the operating rod length .

cheers Ian

:rofl: Oh dear at least you got it sorted :i-m_so_happy:

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Hi all , after the day from hell yesterday got the rod out the bell housing put the old slave cylinder back in and it seems great ,didn't have time to take it for a proper run in and out the shed and round the yard due to having other plans but it changes gear a lot better and found the gears easily , will take her for a proper run round the block tomorrow morning as I'm on afternoons this week , and I put it on the rite way up this time :rolleyes: .

cheers all Ian

And I will be adding Ralph's clutch bleeding mod at a later date as I'm getting to old to run up and down the pit steps , I like the easy life :D me knees ached like bugger yesterday and today .

Edited by ianmayco68
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all , thought I'd give you an update trucks been fine but have had the crunchy 1st and 2nd gear when cold , seems to happen more on colder mornings . Went green laning last weekend with Cheshire LR club in Shropshire and she was fine all day in hi and low box and with difflock on so seems problem solved . Decided last weekend after meeting Retroanaconda and having a chat , it was nice to put a face to the name , to change the oil  the stuff I drained out looked like what metallic paint does when in the tin and filled her up with LR genuine MTF94 so will see how she goes on now cheers all for the help .

Ian

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Granville MTF94 but looking at some new stuff I had left in the bottle it looked different to the genuine LR mtf94 I fetched from the dealer's in Stafford the other day . The genuine stuff looked thinner and the Granville stuff looked darker .

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