benjwom23 Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 So I thought I had got to the point in my slow rebuild process where I was ready to drive it out of the garage for the first time under its own steam. I pressed the clutch, it felt normal. Tried to put it into gear, the clutch wouldn't disengage. Bled the clutch again, exactly the same. Checked the slave cylinder (new maybe 10k miles ago), that move fine with no leaks. As far as I am aware, since I have owned it, my Defender has never had the little clip to hold the slave push rod onto the release fork (FRC3327, I just ordered one) so I thought maybe the push rod was missing the 'hole' in the fork. I smeared it in red rubber grease, tried it again and it has transferred grease it into the hole in the fork but there is no red trail elsewhere. So I have taken the gearbox off. Flywheel had some surface rust, it hasn't moved since I fitted the clutch maybe 2 years ago(!). On removing the pressure plate, the friction plate was stuck to the flywheel so I thought I might have found the problem, but then a gentle tap freed it off. I did notice evidence that the release bearing has touched the 'fingers' on the pressure plate. I don't want to put the gearbox back in until the little clip has arrived so in the meantime have I missed anything really obvious? It has had a new AP clutch, new HD release fork and also a new master cylinder and pedal assembly (my old pedal was the old type which wouldn't accept the assist spring). Whatever length the push rod in the slave cylinder is, it is the one which used to operate this car's clutch fine. I am assuming the new master cylinder pushes the same amount of fluid as the old one? (new one is from a Puma, old one is probably the original NA Diesel one). I don't want to have to put the old one back on to find it makes no difference! The Defender is a 300Tdi with R380. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 I've seen the wrong clutch release bearing cause this - the TDi and V8 ones are almost identical but one is longer than the other. Worth triple-checking you have the right part. That was a long evening in the workshop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjwom23 Posted April 12, 2018 Author Share Posted April 12, 2018 Yup. Long evening. I only went in to drive it out and back in again. Thanks, I was considering shimming out the release bearing to see if it fixed it. The bearing is FTC5200 as far as I can see which is listed as Tdi, Td5 and V8 (I will see if it has anything stamped on it later) I get the feeling that this gearbox is going to be on and off quite a few times yet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 The friction plate being stuck to the flywheel may well have caused enough drag to prevent you being able to put it into gear. The spigot bearing in the back of the crankshaft needs changing too, sometimes they can fail and there is enough friction to keep the input shaft turning sufficiently to prevent clean gear engagement. Broken springs in the friction plate can also cause this. For standard R380 (300Tdi/Td5/V8) and LT77 (2.5NA/TD/200Tdi/V8) applications it's all the same FTC5200 bearing. The stubby R380 onto 200Tdi uses a special UTJ100210 release bearing, and a different push rod too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjwom23 Posted April 12, 2018 Author Share Posted April 12, 2018 I didn't replace the Spigot bush, it was in tight, had the correct diameter and a smooth surface. I will order 1 (or 2) and get it replaced If you think it should be. The friction plate springs all moved out seemingly fine when I removed the plate, and back in when I put the plate on so I can only assume that they are fine. I'm pretty certain the push rod is fine, having driven 100,000 miles or so with it! I am hoping that the (albeit small) mating of the friction plate and flywheel was enough to prevent it from engaging gears. If I get time to reassemble tonight I will hopefully find out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonb Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 If you fitted a new master cylinder, did you reset the pedal push rod free play? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtrans Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 Do you have the short R380 or the ‘normal’ longer bellhousing 300 tdi type ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjwom23 Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 17 hours ago, simonb said: If you fitted a new master cylinder, did you reset the pedal push rod free play? I didn't as the M/C / pedal box assembly is a new take off from a Defender which had an Auto conversion straight from factory. I assumed, possibly incorrectly that it would already be setup. I will check this now though. 14 hours ago, ashtrans said: Do you have the short R380 or the ‘normal’ longer bellhousing 300 tdi type ? It is a 'normal' long bellhousing coupled with a 300Tdi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjwom23 Posted April 18, 2018 Author Share Posted April 18, 2018 So gearbox refitted, haven't touched the slave or master cylinder except for obviously attaching it to the bellhousing. Clutch disengaged perfectly. Still non the wiser but much happier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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