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TD5 disco clutch not bleeding


ejparrott

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Really stumped with this one.  Helping a friend with his Disco2, and we cannot get the clutch to bleed up at all.

History is this ; owned the Disco getting on 3 years.  It's normally had  a bite point not far from the floor.  Went in for a new clutch just before Christmas, came back and the pedal was the same.  Friend suspected slave and/or master, so bought new, TRW/Allmakes.  We've fitted them up, struggled to bleed, suspected DOA master cylinder so ultimately have refitted the old one, and eventually the old slave now too.  Vehicle is parked nose up, about 6" higher than the rear as my drive sits, tried bleeding up by the two person method but getting lots of air but no resistance.  Have reverse bled by modifying my Gunson Eazibleed, lots of fluid coming up to the reservoir no trouble.  Can't reverse bleed from master as I don't have a cap to fit.  I've had a boroscope in the hole and the pushrod is seated on the fork properly, thrust bearing looks ok, cover plate loks fine and we now know is Valeo.  Found RAVE manual says to pump up and down with nipple open and pipe in fluid, closing the nipple after a period of time, not the usual down/close/up/open/down/close I'm used to.  Air definitely appears to be coming out and not going back in, but still no clutch.  Made a quick clamp for the slave, can push the pedal down about half way and goes rock solid, not moving.  Say's to me there's nothing wrong with the cylinders.

 

Currently it's parked on the drive, we gave it lots of pumps and wedged the pedal down.  That method has never worked for me in the past, but I'm all out of ideas!  Help!

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Clutch was fitted by a garage, and the vehicle has been driving for 4 months, so I don't think it's that.  I'm not sure it's anything to do with the clutch at all, its a hydraulic problem I'm sure.

 

We left it wedged overnight, about 16 hours in total I think.  Went out to it and we had a clucth, not great, biting point was lower than ever before, but it functioned.  Took it for a test drive, gradually getting further from home, tested it for slip which it didn't, than it gradually started waning and eventually we lost it completely, luckily just as we pulled up outside the house and wanted to reverse it on the drive

 

We've tried bleeding it again, 20 pumps hold it down and open the nipple, still lots of air every time.  We've left it wedged again, we'll have to admit defeat on this one, get a garage to look at it.  I'm really annoyed, I just can't see what we could have missed, why it's not playing ball

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Hi,  hope you don't mind me checking the obvious, but you do have the bleed nipple at the top? Also, are you happy with the condition of the pipework from the master cylinder to the clutch master and down to the slave?

Griff

Edited by bear
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Yes bleed nipple is at the top.

I've checked the pipework as best I can, visually and by feel.  I can't find any trace of a leak anywhere, it's all dry.

We had another go at bleeding it, seems to be producing loads and loads of air and we still don't get a clutch.  I've never had a problem with this much air before, in brakes or clutches

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update to this saga.

Booked Disco into local garage that does a lot of Land Rover work to have the clutch system bled through.  Took them ALL week to finally get it resolved so it was either a pig of a job to do, or there's some small underlying issue that may well surface again in the future.

However, I'm unable to drive at the moment due to bacl problems so have left clutch pedal wedged down and will see how it is in a couple of days when I'm mobile again.

Thanks for all suggestions and input though, all much appreciated.

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EJ......If you haven't fixed this yet try force/Reverse bleeding

Open bleeding nipple on slave  use a tube with exact fit over nipple and force brake fluid from bottom upwards..

Was the only way to bleed my Disco 1 300 TDi

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