How much to Re-spray an swb van

[Cornish Rattler]

Hi guys

 I know i'm not there yet but just wondering how much it would cost to get my 1970 2a swb van re-sprayed in Limestone 

[Cornish Rattler]

Anyone 

[Bowie69]

Depends what you want.... from £500 for a quick blowover with you doing all the prep, up to £4k for concours.... 

[Scotts90]

You've asked a very subjective question...hence the shortage of replies. 

The cost of the actual paint is the cheapest part of the job, like most things in life you get what you pay for so if there are hours of prep involved and you want a good finish then it's not going to come cheap.

If it's a run around with a fresh lick of paint and minimal "effort" I'd agree with Bowie circa £500. Don't get me wrong I've seen some horrid £2-3k paint jobs which required hours of wet sanding and machine polishing to rectify...and equally some stunning "blow over" jobs. 

Prep is everything for a decent finish from the gun, what you are painting over and onto has the knock on effect on finish as you are only adding microns of layers at a time so blemishes etc will still show through unless rectified.

[Arjan]

Question is almost impossible to answer..

Like others said - anything from tenners for B&Q paint and a roller to several k's when done by the pro's..

Our 110 was done by us - about € 400 - but the Mrs. did the painting, me the sanding

[lo-fi]

You can achieve a beautiful finish with a brush and old school enamel if you're willing to invest a bit time and care. Having read your build thread, I think you're probably not shy of putting the graft in. Evidence: steam engines. That lovely smooth, gleaming finish is always done with a brush. They tend to use some brushing additives to keep the "wet edge" going longer and allow touch ups, which modern paint doesn't handle so well on its own, but it's really down to quality prep and care applying paint. Even subtle brush marks (in the right directions!) don't look out of place on a series, though. It's easy to look after too, just wash and rub over with a clean rag with a little clean oil and paraffin mix on.

Or I've seen some home spray jobs that look fantastic with little more than a cheap gun and large compressor. Having had some "cheap" spray jobs done by supposed pros, I'll be staying clear of that route myself. It'll be a brush or an "expensive" pro job if I have to tackle paint again.

As for how much, I'd agree with the comments above: It's how long is a piece of string, what are you looking for, and how much are you willing to pay?

[Cornish Rattler]

2 hours ago, lo-fi said:

You can achieve a beautiful finish with a brush and old school enamel if you're willing to invest a bit time and care. Having read your build thread, I think you're probably not shy of putting the graft in. Evidence: steam engines. That lovely smooth, gleaming finish is always done with a brush. They tend to use some brushing additives to keep the "wet edge" going longer and allow touch ups, which modern paint doesn't handle so well on its own, but it's really down to quality prep and care applying paint. Even subtle brush marks (in the right directions!) don't look out of place on a series, though. It's easy to look after too, just wash and rub over with a clean rag with a little clean oil and paraffin mix on.

Or I've seen some home spray jobs that look fantastic with little more than a cheap gun and large compressor. Having had some "cheap" spray jobs done by supposed pros, I'll be staying clear of that route myself. It'll be a brush or an "expensive" pro job if I have to tackle paint again.

As for how much, I'd agree with the comments above: It's how long is a piece of string, what are you looking for, and how much are you willing to pay?

Yeah i hand painted my last one in Bronze green ( none cell ) paint from Paddocks which i have thought about doing on this one and i quite fancy doing it that way but son keeps banging on about getting in sprayed but i don't no 

[Cornish Rattler]

On 26/04/2018 at 3:24 PM, lo-fi said:

You can achieve a beautiful finish with a brush and old school enamel if you're willing to invest a bit time and care. Having read your build thread, I think you're probably not shy of putting the graft in. Evidence: steam engines. That lovely smooth, gleaming finish is always done with a brush. They tend to use some brushing additives to keep the "wet edge" going longer and allow touch ups, which modern paint doesn't handle so well on its own, but it's really down to quality prep and care applying paint. Even subtle brush marks (in the right directions!) don't look out of place on a series, though. It's easy to look after too, just wash and rub over with a clean rag with a little clean oil and paraffin mix on.

Or I've seen some home spray jobs that look fantastic with little more than a cheap gun and large compressor. Having had some "cheap" spray jobs done by supposed pros, I'll be staying clear of that route myself. It'll be a brush or an "expensive" pro job if I have to tackle paint again.

As for how much, I'd agree with the comments above: It's how long is a piece of string, what are you looking for, and how much are you willing to pay?

Yeah i hand painted my last one in Bronze green ( none cell ) paint from Paddocks which i have thought about doing on this one and i quite fancy doing it that way but son keeps banging on about getting in sprayed but i 

[Cornish Rattler]

I need to buy a decent rad panel anyway so i mite buy a ltr of none cell Limestone and a decent brush and have a go and see how it comes out