Raptorising my 6x4 Landy

[Wheely]

Hey guys,

 

Next month I will be stripping down my 6x4 1995 land rover defender and repaint it the bodywork outside, the underseal and the interior of the bodywork in UPOL Raptor. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezVsBjayjYA&t=24s 

 

Since I am using the car in the ‘bush’ here in Ghana and I will be overlanding in the near future, this bedliner paint will give me good strength over tree branches and stonechips whilst also providing some insulation and noise reduction. I am aware of the downsides of using it but still want to go ahead with it.
I am about to start with the strip-down and as always I’d like to refer to you guys as your tips and suggestions increase the likelihood of doing a good job J I will video the whole job and will be posting it here for other people to refer to in the future

 

1.  The main aim of the paint job I have in mind is to extend the lifetime of the Landy – hence I would like to understand from your perspective which parts I should ensure to do even if in difficult to access points e.g. the engine bay (wings, front of bulkhead) and inside of the bonnet– is it worth painting it as well ?

 

2.  The Raptor bedliner paint is a very sticky paint so pieces painted together will be very hard to detach in the future. Hence I would like to strip off the body the parts that make most sense to remove. Outside I think these are the wings, the hinges and door handles, the roof, the bulkhead and windscreen part (these two parts are split by a sponge seal), the wheel arches, the triangle on the lower-back side of the rear door. Any other part that you would suggest me to strip out or parts that you’d suggest not to mess around with?

 

3.  I would like to also paint the chassis – I was thinking of unbolting it from the bodywork and lifting the bodywork with a workshop elevator. I wouldn’t remove thought the engine from the chassis as that seems super complicated. Rather than spraying it I was thinking of having the workshop use a brush and stripe-coat – thoughts? Or is it quite difficult and I am better off to just spray the chassis and underseal together with everything still attached at the bodywork?

 

4.  Since this was a fire service truck, there are some wires that go to the roof – what’s the best way to seal the holes on the roof now that I don’t need all that wiring?

 

5.  Since I am going to do some holes in the body work for LED stands and other things, best to do these before or after the paint job?

 

6.  Is it best to paint over the existing rivets or to remove the old rivers, paint and apply new ones?

 

7.  Best to mask where there are bolts or to remove them before paiting?

 

8.  To paint the rims, do you suggest to remove the tire first or just to mask it off?

 

Thanks a lot everyone for your input!

 

Cheers from Ghana,

 

Simone

[Wheely]

Probably too many questions   don't feel like you gotta answer all of them, even just answering on of these will be of great help

[mad_pete]

I would spray over the rivets, remove bolts and take the tyres off to paint although the rough paint might give you trouble on the bead? I took my wings and truck cab off for spraying. I’d contact raptor for painting tips as well. Sure I’ve seen someone do a whole Rover.

[Wheely]

Great thanks @mad_petefor your suggestions - much appreciate

2 Questions:

1- As I started working through it I identified 2 bits that have rusted on the bulk-head. One is right at the edge of bulk-head and windscreen - how do you suggest to fix it? Second is in the foot-well, seems superficial mainly on the paint - any thoughts how this could happen?
2- I live by the sea - what would be the idea way of clean the car before painting it to ensure all the salt is removed and we don't overcoat it?
 

cheers

[Wheely]

Hey guys,

paint stripped and next week I am going to paint it up.

Since it's now back to bare steel and alu - do you recommend me to use Acid #8 Etch primer or UPOL anticorrosive epoxy primer ?

is it better to paint whilst disassembled (front wings, windscreen frame, etc...) or best to reassemble the whole lot prior to painting ?

Edited June 10, 2018 by Wheely

[steve b]

You will need an etch primer for the aluminium and now it's stripped I'd paint as separate parts otherwise you will not get a good coat where it bolts together . Are you going to inject the bulkhead sections with cavity wax after the repairs are done ?

It does look in very good condition for it's age generally

cheers

Steve b

[Wheely]

Great thanks Steve for the recommendation - I'll go with Acid #8 then for the alu and the epoxy anticorrosive for the steel parts.

 the workshop says that there will be challenges in reassembling it as the raptor lines is quite thick - wouldn't be as simple as masking the parts that need to be assembled together to avoid the raptor liner from painting these parts? shall we anyway paint these parts with a normal base-coat to give them a layer of protection?

 

[Wheely]

Hey @steve b all painted disassembled as suggested and it looks like a gem now  

I will take advantage of it being stripped down to do the cavity wax - where can I get some guidelines of which are the parts where I should inject it ? I have seen many of the cavities but I am sure there are other that I haven't spotted!

cheers

Simone

[steve b]

You're making great progress Simone , pic's required

Everything that is steel and hollow section

Door frames , chassis and bulkhead . With the doors it works best to hang them from all four edges and inject each time then lay flat - inside  on top and inject again . Not sure if the bulkhead is separated , if it is inject it hanging upside down , if not then go in through the door hinge bolt holes and any other holes , you could drill small access holes to aid injection then seal with rivets or grommets .  

cheers

Steve b

[Wheely]

eheh yes pics will come soon - is looking pretty nice - I did a combination of 3 colors -aintree green body, niagara grey roof and details in phoenix orange  

So far I have identified:

1-Bulkhead: I can inject from the door hinges holes and from the front wings holes ( both are now removed). Any other role not identified so far? the bulkhead is still fitted so can't turn it upside down

2-Doors: I can inject at the bottom of the steel structure and will drill one hole on each side. What do you think about doing a hole also on the top of the door? I am afraid it might then creep onto the glass.

3-Chassis: the body is on top of it so I guess I can't do it in every existing holde - so far I have identified about 22 holes

4- Pillar in the middle of the two sets of doors: I can inject from the top of it since now I don't have the roof

Anywhere else? where can I get a guide like the attached

[Wheely]

guys, job done! painted inside out and is looking brilliant! will post some pics as soon as I have some time.

Now as I approach putting it all back together I have a question for you: to put back the shutters at the back i will need to drill some holes to put some bolts into the freshly painted roof/body leaving the steel/alu in the hole exposed - what shall I put inside the hole for it to avoid rusting? shall I apply some primer and paint ? but then when I'd put the bolt it would come off or?  or shall i just put some waxoyl?

your guidance would be appreciated

thanks a lot!