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bishbosh

Venturing off road again.......

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P38’s rust too. The 96 one we stripped for the 4.6 V8 had heavily rusted outriggers, rear crossmember, and EAS tank. The main chassis was fine though.

Another thing to remember on D2’s, as well as the rust, the majority don’t have diff lock, so you’ll most likely have to retrofit one.

As already said both the 4.0 and 4.6 can suffer from the slipped liners, so both D2 & P38 are the same here. 

Most of the electrical gremlins on a p38 can be bypassed easily.

A p38 on air is a better drive than a D2, but for off-roading, HD steering arms, suspension, bumpers etc. are readily available and cheap.

have fun picking one :)

 

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There are a few HD bumper options. Have a look on eBay and some of the sellers. Prices aren’t dissimilar for the same type of bunper for a D1/2. 

Both front and rear available and I think some sill bars. Not sure the bumpers I’ve seen are winch ones. But could probably be adapted easily. 

There are a choice of rims. No need for lift kits with the air suspension. Although Arnott Gen III’s offer extended travel. 

Only thing I’ve not really seen are steering guards or snorkels. But they might be available too. 

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Steering guard isn't really necessary as there's a beefy bit of chassis in front of the steering bars. There are snorkels, but they're all pig ugly. On the GEMS it's fairly easy to fit an RRC one through the bonnet, one the later Bosch it's a bit harder because the ECU is in the way.

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19 hours ago, Chicken Drumstick said:

Pre 1999 p38s have 2 wheel traction control (rear). However it’s unclesr if this was on all models when I’ve Googled. I’m sure someone knows but it’s certaibly suggested it was optional on lower end models or not available.

Definitely not standard on lower end early P38s - the DT I had (i.e. lowest of the low) had no traction control at all.

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All these points being mentioned. My personal recommendation would still be the Jeep Cherokee. 

 

The 4.0 litre not the 2.5 or diesel. The 4.0 litre has a centre diff the others don’t. And can still run 2wd as well. 

I’d go for a facelift one (indicators at the front and grill look slightly different). I forget the exact year. They are galvanised from the factory. 

A 2” budget boost lift will be needed. Easy to fit and about £100. Then either some wider offset rims or spacers and 31.10.50R15 tyres.  

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Right so I am looking for a post 2000 P38 then or a non rusty D2? (definitely staying LR or I'd be looking at a 'cruiser too!)

Admittedly for green laning I can't see a lack of HDC being the end of the world but cheap bolt on bits may sway me more towards the D2 as time and space for fabrication is going to be non existent for the next little while.

Decisions, decisions!

Thanks for all the advice, keep it coming!

Edited by bishbosh

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28 minutes ago, bishbosh said:

Admittedly for green laning I can't see a lack of HDC being the end of the world

You won't miss it for laning, no. For some tougher off-road it might be nice, but I've never not been able to manually control my braking adequately.

Or get the manual, then you have a proper ratio first gear and don't need it at all.

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Just to add, the P38 only had a manual option for the 4.0 SE GEMS. So if you want a manual, you'll lose the 4 wheel TC. 2 wheel TC available, but not standard on SE (neither of mine have it, so I fitted Ashroft airlockers, powered from the EAS tank).

I do agree the P38 is the better choice. The Disco2 feels larger/higher/heavier, and for offroad you'd have to find one with a difflock. The availability of offroad goodies is a plus though. But most things can be adapted or made for a P38 as well. Only thing I really miss are HD CVs and halfshafts, not something you'll need for greenlaning.

Filip

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D2 chassis seem to have less structural integrity than an over-dipped HobNob, guy in our club had a rear 1/4 chassis done on his very tidy D2 yet people are beating much older D1's and RRC's around with no chassis issues.

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A downside against the Jeeps is parts can be horrendously expensive if you need to import them.

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