Paddy Posted May 17, 2018 Share Posted May 17, 2018 1991 2.5 na Planning on changing my timing belt this summer, this will be my first attempt so a couple of questions. Dayco belt but what tensione/idler ? Bearmach or OEM. ? Not that big a price difference. The engine has only done 91000 Km but is original 1991. Considering its age should I change crankshaft, camshaft seals or leave well alone as no signs of leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted May 17, 2018 Share Posted May 17, 2018 Yes to the crank seal. This is what I would get for the job: Dayco belt OEM tensioner OEM/genuine Crank dust seal for timing cover OEM/genuine front crank seal Waterpump gasket If the cam seal shows no sign of leaking leaking then I'd leave it. Just incase you've missed it, there is an excellent how-to-guide on here in the tecnical archive: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted May 17, 2018 Share Posted May 17, 2018 You might also invest in a new set of waterpump bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted May 17, 2018 Share Posted May 17, 2018 I agree with the above. It might also be an idea to just buy the cam seal given they are not that expensive just in case you find it is leaking. It would be annoying to say the least to get the timing cover off, discover the seal does need replacing and then have to order it, wait and pay twice for delivery. Your shopping list is growing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted May 17, 2018 Share Posted May 17, 2018 OEM means nothing unless the seal/bearing/part comes in a branded box. Britpart sell a lot of 'OEM' but the stuff looks no different to thier other stuff, with some exceptions. Go for a good brand like cortico, or get genuine - I'd use bearmach if I couldn't get better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 OEM should mean exactly what it is. Some manfacturers may just re-badge products into their own packging. It may be the supplier at fault if you haven't got what you thought you had ordered. I have been sent items in blue boxes in the past when I had deliberately ordered a different brand. I just send them back as refused items. With oil seals however from bad experiences in the past I would go for genuine where possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Posted May 18, 2018 Author Share Posted May 18, 2018 Thanks for all the info, I was going to get a crank seal and only fit if I found anything amiss. I did have reservation about the life of the existing one but would have left well alone. So I will replace regardless. Water pump bolts replaced 2 years ago and well greased so I’ll spend the saving on a standby cam seal. There would be no way I’d do this if it wasn’t for Les’s guide. So yet another vote of thanks Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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