ianmayco68 Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 Hi all noticed today the seal on the output flange is weeping on my rear axle , so is it an easy job to do and can I do it in situ or should I remove the diff ? And should I replace the flange and bearing while I’m doing it and is there anything else I should check or replace while I’m there . cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 Remove the diff? I'm not sure I understand what you are getting at. It must be done insitu. The seal goes into the axle case. It is all one big piece. Sure, just change the seal. If you want to change bearings, you will need to setup the pinion properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8bertha Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 If you mean the flange that the prop bolts on to, yes, you can replace the seal without removing the diff. The trick is to count the number of turns of the bolt when taking it off as there is a crush washer in there between the bearings. Pull out the flange, replace seal, flange back in, do bolt up counting the number of turns again. I believe the crush washer preloads the tension in the bearings, so don't over tighten when doing it back up again. But I'm sure a sensible adult will be along soon if I've got that wrong! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 As v8bertha says you need to do a bit if counting. Remove the propshaft. Now check the pinion shaft and thenut. Any pop marks, If yes remove the nut and do the seal. If no pop marks. Mark the pinion shaft and the nut so the pop marks line up, Now do the seal tightening the nut up to the pinion shaft mark. Thar's the FORD way of doing the job. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 What they said - mark the nut & flange and make sure you do it up the same number of turns, I did it many moons ago on the 109 and it seemed to work OK. Just be aware the nut is torqued to "f-tight" (250-ish torques from memory) so you'll need to have your weetabix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted May 18, 2018 Author Share Posted May 18, 2018 (edited) Cheers all , yes sorry I mean't the flange the prop bolts too , looking at the parts diagram there's a couple of washers , a gasket , seal and the nut I'm guessing its best to replace all of them . Looking for the parts I see the seal and flange changed on the latter axles to incorporate a mudshield , can you upgrade to the newer type flange ? As the older type seal , genuine one is £45 on britcar and I don't really want to put anything in that isn't OEM . cheers Ian Edited May 18, 2018 by ianmayco68 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 19, 2018 Share Posted May 19, 2018 23 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said: What they said - mark the nut & flange and make sure you do it up the same number of turns, I did it many moons ago on the 109 and it seemed to work OK. Just be aware the nut is torqued to "f-tight" (250-ish torques from memory) so you'll need to have your weetabix. 250 is the torque at which the crush tube starts to deform, but it increases rapidly as the deformation continues towards the required preload. You can count turns on the nut, but in practice, doing it up to 200'lbs does fine - it wont crush the tube any further, but will take up any slack. It has worked for me when swapping ratios twice, with no noise and no bearing or tooth damage resulting. If you read the Salisbury set up notes, it's all pretty easy. The issue is getting the diff carrier races on and off again for setting up the shims, not the process itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted May 19, 2018 Author Share Posted May 19, 2018 Cheers Snagger , sounds like an easy enough job to do also found a post off here were cackshifter I think it was upgraded to the newer seal and flange so that bits sorted as well . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 20, 2018 Share Posted May 20, 2018 Changing the flange would result in a different nut position as there will be small variations in flange length. I'm sure Nige would disapprove of my comparative botch, but it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted May 21, 2018 Share Posted May 21, 2018 Yes, I swapped to the new flange, took Snagger's excellent advice and have had no issues since. Its quite hard tightening it as there is some spring in the halfshafts. I made a tool to engage with the flange, hole in the middle to get at the nut, and an arm to rest on the ground or chassis. Once the flange is held still its much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 21, 2018 Share Posted May 21, 2018 2 hours ago, cackshifter said: . I made a tool to engage with the flange, hole in the middle to get at the nut, and an arm to rest on the ground or chassis. Once the flange is held still its much easier. It makes a huge difference. I used a couple of bolts through the flange and a crow bar against the ground. Inelegant, but effective. A bar with fixed bolts that cant slip off would be far more secure and thus easier and safer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted May 22, 2018 Author Share Posted May 22, 2018 Cheers all , went with the old type seal in the end tried the eac parts one so will see it it’s any good . Will look at knocking something up to hold the flange I’ll be doing it over the pit so should be easier to tighten up . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted May 22, 2018 Share Posted May 22, 2018 Was your old seal leather? Mine was and started leaking when it dried out. If the new one is rubber I think it'll stand a better chance. I think this is one of those occasions where rubber is better than leather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted May 22, 2018 Author Share Posted May 22, 2018 Will let you know when I take it off, looks like it’s been there for years though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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