ianmayco68 Posted May 20, 2018 Share Posted May 20, 2018 Hi all , have a minor problem I’m losing oil not loads a bit through were the sump pan mates to the ladder frame . And I’ve sussed it out to be that the bolts are undoing slightly , I know this because I fitted a gasket a while ago last week I noticed a bit of oil on the lower exhaust so after fitting my new shocks and springs I had a look and found the bolts slightly loose , this happened before just after rebuild which I put down to the rebuild which I found out when fitting the gasket both times they have been torqued up to what the manual says. So is it a case of needed new bolts as the old ones are worn or should they have a bit of locktite on them ? cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 20, 2018 Share Posted May 20, 2018 My understanding is that you don't use a sump gasket, but RTV on a 200TDI. This would help the bolts secure themselves, and indeed glue them in place slightly as well. No need for loctite I am sure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted May 20, 2018 Author Share Posted May 20, 2018 No not normally, there’s a firm on eBay does a cork gasket . I used RTV when I rebuilt the engine but when it started weeping the 1st time and the bolts were a bit loose I thought I’d try the gasket , but they’ve loosened themselves again so thought I’d ask on here. Will order some new bolts see if that stops it . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 20, 2018 Share Posted May 20, 2018 Bowie is right - it should be sealed with RTV. I'd wager the bolts didn't undo, but that the gasket has compressed with the heat and developed the slack. I've had that happen with thick paper gaskets on transmission housings, so a thick cork gasket is even more likely to shrink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 20, 2018 Share Posted May 20, 2018 Oil/heat resistant RTV selant on the ladder frame to block & sump to ladder frame. STC611 is the LR part number, but there are alternatives I used this https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/elring-dirko-sealant-sealing-compound-c2x20634602 from Turners on my 200Tdi rebuild. no cork gasket required, LR do not supply one for either Tdi engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tetsu0san Posted May 22, 2018 Share Posted May 22, 2018 When I had issues with my 300Tdi years ago I removed the sump and it had a gasket. Tried to get a replacement gasket and couldn't find one anywhere so I just RTV'd it. Same a few years later on my 200Tdi and again I ended up RTV'ing it. As Snagger said it's probably the gasket compressing and giving the appearance of slack. Just RTV it and if you get a little on the threads as you put the bolts in that will possibly help too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted May 22, 2018 Author Share Posted May 22, 2018 I’ve got some RTV sealant and I’ve ordered some replacement bolts as they were cheap enough , it’s due an oil change so will take it off and reseal it over the bank holiday when I’m doing the rear seal on the axle . Just one more question have I read somewhere or am I getting confused with something else that when your refitting the sump pan after applying the sealant you should tighten the bolts up finger tight then let the sealant go off then torque then up as required ? I’ve just got it in my head that I’ve read that in a post somewhere for some reason might be my imagination but thought I’d ask to be sure . cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 22, 2018 Share Posted May 22, 2018 no need to retighten the sump bolts after fitting with sealant, I haven't retightened my 200tdi sump bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 22, 2018 Share Posted May 22, 2018 You're supposed to add the sealant to one surface, let it get touch dry and then close the parts together and fit the bolts. Not sure why, but presumably to prevent the silicone all squeezing out of the joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted May 22, 2018 Share Posted May 22, 2018 5 hours ago, ianmayco68 said: have I read somewhere or am I getting confused with something else that when your refitting the sump pan after applying the sealant you should tighten the bolts up finger tight then let the sealant go off then torque then up as required That's what I usually do. It means that all the sealant doesn't get squished out when still in its liquid form, giving a bit of meat to squash like a gasket when the bolts are tightened against it. A touch more than finger tight, though. Enough to get the sealant to start to move, spread and fill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted May 22, 2018 Author Share Posted May 22, 2018 Glad I’m not going daft , thought I’d read it somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted May 22, 2018 Share Posted May 22, 2018 It was a process detailed in a Mazda manual, I believe I first saw it. Had an "ohhhh, that makes a lot of sense" moment and now do most RTV style joints that way. Seems to work for me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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