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Which clutch?


Jon W

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During my rebuild I am going to change the clutch while it’s all apart.

Discovery 200tdi engine onto a defender LT77 box. The engine wont be anything special just the usual pump tweaks and intercooler. So is it a defender clutch I need?

So looking at a HD clutch kit, so who is the favourite at the moment Valeo, Borg & beck you hear horror stories about both.  Or do I go for something from like of the next companies such as clutch fix clutches or synchro gearboxes?

Thanks

Jon

 

 

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Hopefully you are using an LT77S box.  The earlier boxes are not the best idea, both due to gearing and strength.

The "HD" clutches are just the stock clutches for the 130.  Anything will be fine.  Make sure you use a strengthened clutch fork and all metal throwout bearing.

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I’ve used Valeo kits in the past with success. Always use the 130-spec friction plate with the extra main springs and no pre-damping springs. Apparently the payoff is it gives more gear chatter at idle but I’ve never heard it in mine.

Decent branded release bearing is a key point. Not sure the all-metal ones are necessary for standard use, but I suppose they can’t hurt. Reinforced fork as above.

It’s also worth checking the pivot point in the bellhousing as these can wear at high mileage. Mine is no longer round and has worn almost to a point so I’ll swap it with the one from the spare box. It needs lubricating on assembly, along with the release bearing slide and the slipper pads on the fork.

Dont forget the spigot bush too.

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It’s had a recon box so not sure if it is a LT77S or what really. Yes was planning a reinforced clutch fork. It will Ben interesting to see what the pivot point looks like as it does squeak really loudly currently hence splitting the engine and box.

I remember years back the clutch failed a few years after i replaced it and the reason was thought to be the wrong clutch, as I had put in a 200tdi discovery clutch and not one which was matched to the gearbox. Could this have been the case? It wasn’t in my possession at the time so haven’t got many more details.

I will be doing rear main oil seal, spigot, release fork and any other parts which look worn

 

Thanks 

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4 hours ago, Jon W said:

It’s had a recon box so not sure if it is a LT77S or what really. Yes was planning a reinforced clutch fork. It will Ben interesting to see what the pivot point looks like as it does squeak really loudly currently hence splitting the engine and box.

Look up the serial number.  You will not be happy if you have the wrong gearing.

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12 hours ago, Jon W said:

I remember years back the clutch failed a few years after i replaced it and the reason was thought to be the wrong clutch, as I had put in a 200tdi discovery clutch and not one which was matched to the gearbox. Could this have been the case? It wasn’t in my possession at the time so haven’t got many more details.

 

 

I doubt it.  They'd have the same flyhweel and pressure plate.  The clutch plate compatibility is basically to do with the splined hub fitting the gear box input shaft.  Discoverys tow a lot, and the 200 was slightly more powerful in the Discovery than the Defender.  I suspect you just had bad luck, though using a HD plate this time should stack the odds more in your favour at the cost of a little harshness.

Nige's release bearing sleeves look very good, and while not strictly necessary for British climates, it would save another job further down the line if you decide to do a very hot trip.  I have read of a handful, not many, cases of the plastic sleeve failing or melting, enough to make me want one next time I have the clutch open.

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ive no experience of borg&beck but ive only heard good things.

 

valeo on the other hand i do have a lot of experience with, all good.

 

my last valeo clutch i fitted to a mr2.

 

when i first fitted it it went on a standard engine and box and worked fine.

 

i then binned the standard engine (too slow) and fitted a 3.0 liter v6 with more than double the bhp the clutch was rated for. i then proceeded to drive it like a cock doing burnouts with wide sticky tyres and donuts galore. it lasted til long after i sold the car, and as far as i know is still holding up fine a year later.

 

cant fault valeo.

 

edit ; just to note, other people have tried that conversion with other standard clutch's which slipped from the start...

Edited by qwakers
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On 23/05/2018 at 3:05 AM, Red90 said:

Look up the serial number.  You will not be happy if you have the wrong gearing.

Thanks. It’s ok I am happy with the gearing as it has been in the family the last 18years, and my brother put in a like for like exchange box a few years back so I know the box is ok.

 

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I had the fingers on my Valeo clutch fail when I was in Spain after 35k miles. It was a shame as the rest of it had lots of life in it.

The garage I used fitted a Sachs clutch, which they noted had a bigger friction plate than the Valeo and in their opinion looked to be a better clutch.

Anyway it's worked just fine for the last couple of years and does feel nice to use.

Just throwing another brand into the pot 😊

Mo 

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On 22/05/2018 at 10:15 PM, Jon W said:

It will Ben interesting to see what the pivot point looks like as it does squeak really loudly currently hence splitting the engine and box. 

Mine had a creak from the bellhousing that was audible inside the car. I’m presuming it was the pivot point given the condition of the one that was in there. Just put the spare one in, not perfect but still round and cleaned up okay with some sandpaper - I’ll be interested to see if the creak has gone when it’s all back together.

They're still available new and easily changed, but a genuine one will set you back about £60.

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Intended use is off road, and potentially a lot of towing horse box around if I let my wife get hold of it.

Will have a look a niges release bearings, and when it is apart look at the pivot point. 

 

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A couple of years back I needed a clutch and DMF for the D2 Td5, I was advised LUK at the time and being in France I ordered it from a supplier in the UK. LUK was supposed to be OE. Just by chance I was chatting to the manager at the parts emporium and he said that the big players in the market in Europe don't all make everything, increasingly the OE supplier who has developed the product makes it available to the others for their supply chain and in that way production costs are minimised. So which ever box you order from the big manufacturers their is an increasing chance that the contents bear a strong resemblance.

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7 hours ago, Blanco said:

A couple of years back I needed a clutch and DMF for the D2 Td5, I was advised LUK at the time and being in France I ordered it from a supplier in the UK. LUK was supposed to be OE. Just by chance I was chatting to the manager at the parts emporium and he said that the big players in the market in Europe don't all make everything, increasingly the OE supplier who has developed the product makes it available to the others for their supply chain and in that way production costs are minimised. So which ever box you order from the big manufacturers their is an increasing chance that the contents bear a strong resemblance.

This is the trouble though. Because that Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) makes it it can be claimed to be OEM. But that doesn't mean it was made to the same specification. There was a thread on the forum a while back in which SimonR showed the quality differences of a few differing UJs, I believe all made by GKN. The Genuine Land Rover one being the one with the best bearings and seals. 

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Thanks for all the replies, just having a look through now and found this on bearmach website, they are supplying clutch fix clutch for £160 but is it worth £60 more than the others listed there, or £100 more than bearmachs own brand. 

choices choices 

 

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