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Simon_CSK

TD5 ECU

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1 hour ago, Simon_CSK said:

Quick question. Would the engine tick over without the crank case sensor connected? I have been stripping the old engine wiring loom out to replace it and think one of the wires may be broken. Given the age and milage of the car I am not to concerned about replacing this regardless.

No, the crank sensor is pretty much the only sensor that will stop the engine running (throttle will stop it revving). All the other sensors can be disconnected and will use defaults. AFM and IAT, for example, are the first thing to unplug when you're having issues.

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Ok that rules that out as an issue. Once the main loom is replaced it should be sorted.

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So far I have replaced the wiring loom under the rocker cover them main loom, changed over the throttle potentiometer and changed over the ECU and BCU with no effect. Whatever I do the engine just ticks over. 

My brother suggested potentially a fuel leak causing a drop in pressure any other ideas as to what can be causing this?

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Depends really if you intend on taking onboard the suggestions or just continue to load the parts cannon

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I have tried to get it on to a computer but everyone I take it to is too busy to deal with an old D2 so it sits outside their workshop for a couple of weeks until I get annoyed. I have loads of spares so inbetween times I replace the parts.

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Simon,

I'm going to ask a really silly question here....   What model of ECU did you swap into the D2?

The D2 and Defender ECU's are different. They will each run the other at tickover but wont rev and silly things happen to gauges when swapped one way... (Can't remember which)

What is the model number of the ECU?

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1 hour ago, V8 Freak said:

Simon,

I'm going to ask a really silly question here....   What model of ECU did you swap into the D2?

The D2 and Defender ECU's are different. They will each run the other at tickover but wont rev and silly things happen to gauges when swapped one way... (Can't remember which)

What is the model number of the ECU?

if you fit a defender ecu onto a discovery the temperature guage works backwards being the main issue of the top of my head, otherwise they do "work" just not the best,

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I think you are probably right Mike.... :)

Simon, using one of the other statements above, have you unplugged each sensor in turn?

Only the crank sensor should stop it from running and only the MAF / throttle potentiometer stop it from revving to some degree. (And even then it should ignore the MAF and go to a fall-back state if the MAF is dead.)

The replacement ECU may not work as it should if a Defender map has been uploaded to a Disco ECU...... (Or the other way around) 

What model number of ECU is it?

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17 hours ago, V8 Freak said:

I think you are probably right Mike.... :)

Simon, using one of the other statements above, have you unplugged each sensor in turn?

Only the crank sensor should stop it from running and only the MAF / throttle potentiometer stop it from revving to some degree. (And even then it should ignore the MAF and go to a fall-back state if the MAF is dead.)

The replacement ECU may not work as it should if a Defender map has been uploaded to a Disco ECU...... (Or the other way around) 

What model number of ECU is it?

the maf wont stop it reving, when the maf fails the ecu uses the MAP sensor Vs TPS logic to decide on its fueling strategy, although on IIRC the 10p engine the maf is used as an input more than on the 15p engine,

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Have you checked the electrical fuel pump? If that fails, it should still start but will be low on power and if the fuel lines aren't totally clear could be limited to tick-over. Disconnect at the FPR or fuel filter and see if you get a good flow to the engine and also on the return when ticking over.

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My understanding is that the electric fuel pump is a no-start failure as it supplies around 7 bar which is regulated to around 4.2 bar in the head.

 

 

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The injectors on the TD5 work partly as a pump, and are good enough to suck fuel through a broken fuel pump. I've experienced this on my 90 and saw it confirmed with some customers as well. You should be able to pull the fuse for the fuel pump and still start the engine. Just don't expect much power.

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Thanks for all the help. I eventually got it sorted, yesterday. It turned out that the accellerator pedal I had replaced with was the wrong one so my duff one was repaced with an incompatable one. This then perpetuated the problem and led to my frustration. Having been without a Land Rover for three months I must admit that I enjoy being behind the wheel. Tomorrow my youndest son and I are going to change the interior as mine with over 183k on the clock is ripped to shreds, partly thanks to my pup and to age. If I have time I will be changing the dash and fitting a double din Sat Nav unit and some more USB charging points. Sunday I have some leaks to fix and possibly change my rear wing and quater. 

Back to reality. My mini can get parked up for a while so I can enjoy my Disco. Once I have the Disco looking nice I will start on my P38 as that hasn't run since I change the V8. 

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